Are you able to measure the fuel pressure when cranking? Any way to bleed air from the system (not knowing how the fuel bowl delete is set up)? Do you know what the condition of the fuel tank pickups are? They like to disintegrate with the age of our trucks. I also recommend getting the FORScan/FORScan Lite app and an interface adapter (they are out there for about $30 on Amazon). Cheers!

 

I have an adjustable FPR that I had set at 60psi. I wish I'd mounted it so I could read it from the cab with the hood open. Lol! When I crank it up, I can get out and look at the regulator, and it sits at about 20psi iirc. It seems like the pressure bleeds off over time of not cranking. Not sure if that's normal. Fuel bowl does stay full. I have a video of trying to start it... but, i couldnt figure out how to upload it. As far as bleeding the air... I was under the impression that this is a self priming system... but, how do I bleed off air? I never had this issue when I reinstalled the lift pump the first time, after deleting the fuel bowl.

As far as my delete set up... my spin on 3405 filter housing is on the driver's fender near the IDM, and plumbed to my lift pump in the valley. FPR is mounted to the HPOP reservoir. Typical setup, I'd assume.

 

You may also have a bad ICP. What scanner did you get? Can it read a display the PIDs while cranking? I would look at the ICP pressure and what the PCM is commanding the IPR.

Cj

 

I used a Snap On Solus, I believe. I unplugged the ICP sensor, and all that does is cause the truck to crank, and not even WANT to catch. Lol! I'm hoping to borrow it again today, actually. At one point, the tin nut on the IPR was loose, causing the solenoid to be able to rotate on the valve. I DO still have the harness from my fuel bowl attached to the main harness from after I deleteted it. I also have the EBPV delete, with a resistor to prevent the soft code. I have

 

Might I suggest the following: "I would recommend that you first invest in FORScan (forscan.org) and a suitable adapter. I have an OBDLink EX usb adapter (should you wish to use a computer to collect data), or take a look at either a BAFX or OBDLink unit. Both BAFX/OBDLink have a bluetooth/Wifi units (there are a few folks around here that recommend them) that will would work with a smart phone (Run of the mill box store scanners and even a great number of the higher end scanners can't touch these trucks as Ford used the "heavy duty diesel" protocol for communication). Once you are setup I would capture data.. At minimum I would save RPM (really this is CPS), ICP, IPR, MAP, EOT and IVS (at least I think that is the PID for the go petal). FORScan will allow you to save the data as a .csv file which you can import into excel. The information you get from the truck will help identify what your problem really is without just "throwing parts" at the truck."

Now the codes you have... P0470 - I'd check that the EBP sensor is working as the PCM does rely on this sensor. The next 3 codes are related to the IDM, P1273 - High to Low side open on Cyl 3, P1293 - High to low side open right side (this if for the whole bank, P1294 - High to low side open left side. I know you said that the buzz test completed successfully. I'd clear all of your codes and then run the buzz test again to see if these codes come back. If they do you either have a problem with the IDM or the wiring. P0603 - Keep Alive Memory, just means that you had the batteries disconnected for a while.

As for not starting with the ICP disconnected... well you really need to be watching/capturing live data while cranking. The PCM will default to a look up table of ICP values when it is unplugged. You really shouldn't see more than around 2500 psi while cranking... assuming that the IPR and ICP are functioning correctly.

Cj

 

The Snap On scanner I used had every test possible available for this engine. When I cleared codes, the only ones that came back are the cylinder 3 high to low side open, and the EBPS code. I deleted the EBPV, so it's unclear if that could cause an EBPS fault. I do have a Nippondenso gear reduction starter, and the CPS was showing about 200rpm at crank. I watched injection pressure spike to 3000+ psi within a few crank revolutions. Smokes like a bastard still. All the parts I threw at it are from the fleet of spares I've bought over the past few years, in case of an instance of THIS bullshit here. Lol! Also... why do I have a feeling this truck should run, even WITH a bad/open injector. I won't have the scanner again til mid week. What values should I be really interested in, as far as no start? I'm at the point in the no start flow chart where replacing the UVCH's and the IPR are recommended.

 

I'm kind of in the same boat as you then... Yesterday, I needed my truck and all it would do is produce white clouds of smoke. I finally got it running, but I was getting a bit nervous there. I'm not sure what it's story is yet.. Although I think my injectors are original (261000 miles), the GPs were replaced last winter. I'm a little doubtful of the GP relay, but I have bridged it with a heavy wire when starting without improvement.

Cj

 

My thoughts are with the IPR, honestly. I tried plugging in my block heater, and it kept shorting my power strip. I have an EBPS fault code, so I'm not sure if it's from the EBPV delete, or potentially if the sensor is messing with the Vref. These forums seem pretty well dead these days man.

 

I DID end up tracking down an issue, and it caused this truck to run better than when I bought it! For some reason, when I converted the UVCH to the Super Duty style (single, 9-wire connector) the truck actually started and ran. It's always hazed pretty heavy and ran with a skip, but it's been a 3 year project as well. I've had a #3 High To Low Side Open code since I bought the truck, that would come back immediately after clearing. So, since the truck was finally running, I did a Cylinder Contribution Test and found cylinders #1 and #3 both shared a balance fault. I was CONVINCED there was a problem in the engine harness, so I pulled and deloomed it...
I went straight for cylinder #3's injector wire, and cut it right in half. The inside of the wire was nearly BLACK. I replaced the wire... and the truck runs better than it did, even when I drove it home!

 

no mention of why it fried
that's overcurrent
i'd be very concerned about the cause
i'd trace that !
ipr is e z to take apart and troubleshoot