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Project Gentleman build

11K views 63 replies 8 participants last post by  6 Piston Power  
#1 ·
After reading this and the army for the last 3 years after buying my truck, it’s time to dig in!

Truck is ‘95 CCLB 4x4 I found local in northeast Iowa. Had 244k on the clock when I bought it and passed the blow by test. There was zero rust on the cab... a miracle for a 22 year old truck in the rust belt. Did have rust on 3 of 4 fenders over the wheels plus the usual wear for the age.
 
#6 ·
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So first upgrade was headlights. Wanted separate low and high beams so that I could eventually add a diode and relay to get low beams to stay on with my highs.
Haven’t added the relay and diode yet but do have some LEDs in the lows.
 
#7 ·
Last August I installed PMFs 2.25” RSK with what I thought were V code springs... 2,600# per side. Just measured and it’s sitting 27 3/8” center of axle to bottom of front fender with a slightly positive arch to the springs. Wishing I would’ve bought softer springs but still a night and day ride improvement! Also got bilsteins from PMF and extended sway bar links from skyjacker.
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#11 ·
Just started my DIY e fuel and super duty front fuel tank upgrade...
Decided to take the beat up bed off for ease of install.
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Gooseneck hitch and bed bolts were removed by grinding.
Almost forgot, did super duty UVCH upgrade and found 7 of 8 glow plug pins were burnt in the original harness.
 
#13 ·
Got the super duty sending unit wiring plug re-pinned and added and added a dud wire to fill the hole in the plug left behind by the rep in. Taped back up then tucked back into the factory wiring split loom.
Used this thread for wiring reference.
 
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#16 ·
201472

Fittings all assembled. I have a local fabrication shop bending 12 gauge sheet into a C channel to mount the filter bases and pump onto. Piece is 13” long and measured to fill the inside width of the frame rail.
 
#17 ·
Not sure of the technical term but the hydraulic shop where I bought the fittings called them aggressive barbs for the hoses. Rated to far more psi without hose clamps than the fuel system is regulated to.
The threads are all NPT and I put Teflon thread sealer rated for diesel fuel on the threads. It’s blue in above pictures.
 
#22 ·
Nice doc. Squirrel!

The nuts on the backside of the bracket for the fuel filter housing so that if I need to change one of the wix filter housing under the truck I don’t have to fish a wrench in behind.

Bracket is designed to be a c channel that slides inside the frame rails and gives space to the brake and fuel lines that run flush against the frame. Going to pick up this afternoon...
 
#24 ·
Time to test fit the super duty tank and get measurements for new straps to have them made by the same place that did the bracket. Wish I had a press brake to bend sheet metal and a plasma cutting table for the straps...
 
#30 ·
So for the leaks... I’ve had lots of fuel running from the valley to the drain in the back and down onto the pavement which was the reason to start the swap now. Plan is to go to the car wash, spraying degreaser just before I leave so it can soak in. Take the creeper and a change of clothes with a towel and spray all the junk off. Just unsure if some was running down the bell housing and across the transmission to the case.

Much of this is learn as I go, and I’ve never installed/removed a transmission or xfer case before. So I’m a little nervous and excited to learn.