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OEM Locking Hub Alternatives?

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17K views 19 replies 9 participants last post by  Bobs 7.3  
#1 ·
Hey guys I have a couple of questions about locking hubs. First, how do the OEM "auto" locking hubs work? I'm used to "free" and "locked" not "auto" and "locked"

I have a bad passenger side locking hub on my 2002 F250 CCSB 4x4. My next question is, what are some good affordable alternatives for full manual locking hubs to replace my OEMs? I dont need anything for a bulletproof application as I don't off road my truck. Just the occasional "so I don't get stuck" routine if/when I happen to park in wet grass or snow. I found a pair of AVM hubs which I've never heard of for around $160. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.
 
#4 ·
The lockout on the passenger side is really tight and the selector is broken. I have to use a piece of wood on what's left of the selector and hit the other end with my hand to turn it. I found a set made by super winch for $140 for the pair. Says I have to do a "manual conversion kit" to use them. They have the same splines and everything what is there to convert? Couldn't I just plug the vacuum lines off and use full manual lockouts?
 
#5 ·
I don't know what is required in the conversion kit
I did at one time LOL

u could use OEM's and use as a manual and plug the vac

or search the full manual needs for the super winch IIRC it wasn't many parts that u swapped but I may be wrong ?
 
#7 ·
Yeah its pretty simple, I would spend the extra cash and get the Warms. Just plug off the vac line and put a plug or zerk fitting in the knuckle were the vac line was.
 
#9 ·
goats it says we need a conversion kit if switching from auto hubs to manual... was that true with with yours or is that referring to the auto that were available on the obs trucks?
 
#10 ·
My fix! Lol
Image
 
#13 ·
Pull the stockers out and sell the other good one on ebay for a hundred bucks like I did and the new warn premiums I installed went right in and put the warn ring in to hold it in (as the stocker wont work) then just put the cap on then the screws and your done. If you cap the port where the vacuum hose hooks to the spindle make sure to cap off the hose you removed or your heater controls cam throw a fit ive heard. I removed the hoses all together from the selonoid to the spindles and just capped the selonoid (on the firewall) with the same caps as the spindles. Best damn $280.00 I ever spent. They work great and the premiums carry a full lifetime warranty. You blow them or break them they replace the set for free .
 
#14 ·
Agreed if you don't cap the other end near the solenoid and it fails or when you select 4x4
it will cause vacuum issues ,

the zerk fitting plan only gets grease to a few areas not into the unit bearing that is done through the ABS port if equipped
 
#15 ·
It should have the abs ports even if its 2 wheel abs and not all wheel abs. With the 2 wheel abs theres just plugs in the hole where the abs sensor would go. I bought a nice greaseable insert to put in plave of the abs sensor then you can grease the bearing good. I put 5 pumps of the grease gun in each one every 20k miles and i havent had a wheel bearing failure or one get loud in a year and before I was changing wheel bearings every 8 months (9 total in 5 years).
 
#16 ·
Installed the MM 449SS in both sides and plugged the hub and line side of the factory vacuum system. Working like a charm. Thanks guys ;)
 
#18 ·
That's what I did. MM hubs were on sale from summit for cheap.

Trouble is, they rattle a bit since the lockrings that hold them into the hub isn't round like the stocker.
 
#19 ·
Mine came with a flat lock ring (looked like a piston ring) and also a spiral lock ring that you have to open up and spin into the same slot with the first lock ring. Did you install both?