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X codes will ride a little stiffer than V codes but still better than any lift spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Wow.

Trevor from PMF read this and offered to refund the money I spend on powdercoat, even though its been more then a year since I installed the kit. I never asked for a refund initially, but him offering out of the blue, a year later goes to show he is very customer service oriented!!!

Also the powdercoat was not done by PMF in house, but subbed out to another company.


After having this kit on for more then a year, I still love it now as much as the day I installed it and I haven't had any problems.... Would definitely recommend this kit for anyone with an OBS 4x4 as a "MUST DO" mod...
 

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Great thread! Glad it is a sticky… I’ll start my own if these questions do not belong here...

It appears that the bumper mounts stay in their factory location? I plan to install a ranch hand style for more tire clearance, and I like the look. Will this be a problem?

I plan to run only as large a tire as my factory Alcoas will take and am primarily looking to improve the ride. How much lift, if any, is needed for this?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Great thread! Glad it is a sticky… I’ll start my own if these questions do not belong here...

It appears that the bumper mounts stay in their factory location? I plan to install a ranch hand style for more tire clearance, and I like the look. Will this be a problem?

I plan to run only as large a tire as my factory Alcoas will take and am primarily looking to improve the ride. How much lift, if any, is needed for this?
nothing changes with the bumper mounts. depending on the tire size you are going to run depends on any lift needed. I don't think you'll get much bigger then say a 285/75R16 on the skinny alcoas. You shouldn't need any lift for that. I would get the 2.5" kit and you'll be good. I've heard of guy's running 35's with this kit, doesn't allow a ton of room but it works. And should give you all the room you'll need since your keeping the stock rims.
 

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Maybe with the with way the old sky kit was, But if you break (6) 3/4 bolts on this kit, you have other issues
Always bolt and weld. Welding doesn't hurt a thing and you'd hate to be flipping end over end thinking about how valuable the 5 minutes you saved by not welding was. Bolts can fail for many reasons, doesn't mean they will but why not double up. If Cary at ctperformance says weld it, weld it. There is no advantage to not welding it.
 

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STILL LEARNING
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Always bolt and weld. Welding doesn't hurt a thing and you'd hate to be flipping end over end thinking about how valuable the 5 minutes you saved by not welding was. Bolts can fail for many reasons, doesn't mean they will but why not double up. If Cary at ctperformance says weld it, weld it. There is no advantage to not welding it.
I guess you cane see that the PMF kit goes in differently than the old SKY kit. Not one person had welded the PMF kit and no bolt in failures
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Always bolt and weld. Welding doesn't hurt a thing and you'd hate to be flipping end over end thinking about how valuable the 5 minutes you saved by not welding was. Bolts can fail for many reasons, doesn't mean they will but why not double up. If Cary at ctperformance says weld it, weld it. There is no advantage to not welding it.
if cary at CTperformance tells ya to jump off a cliff, are ya gonna do that too? not bashing him or you, just saying its not a bad idea to think for yourself even after you get advice from others. :)

I didn't weld it because if I ever want to change it out for something else, I don't want to have to worry about grinding the spot welds off and trying to break those loose. And if you were to install this kit for yourself, and see just how tight a fit it is, and just how beefy the grade 8 hardware is, youd probably realize its probably overkill to tack weld everything on. Also its pointless to order something powdercoated, just to grind some of that powdercoat off to get a good tack weld cause paint just wont match up good to the powdercoat on touch-up.

But if that's how you like doing things, by all means go ahead and weld er up. :)
 

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If you weld in the correct areas they are pretty easy to take out a weld with the correct tools. I always bolt and use some strategically placed welds that I can remove if need be.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
That is one badass truck. I dont know if you mentioned is that one of the rare 97s
thanks! and yes it is a 1997. Is that considered a rare year? if it is, why is it considered rare?

The only powerstrokes I've owned were both 97's. One was a 2wd ECLB, and now this one (CCSB).

I do know this a pretty rare setup now, OBS F350 crew cab short bed. :)
 

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Always bolt and weld. Welding doesn't hurt a thing and you'd hate to be flipping end over end thinking about how valuable the 5 minutes you saved by not welding was. Bolts can fail for many reasons, doesn't mean they will but why not double up. If Cary at ctperformance says weld it, weld it. There is no advantage to not welding it.
Cary at CT is a grade A lieing POS. Telling everyone he had "special" bs twin valves shocks, ad he invented this and that. A bunch I suckers for falling for his scam of a "company"
 

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the weld is only as good as the welder, I've seen alot of stuff I'd rather have bolted than welded after a "pro" welded it
 

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Now that you seem to have more suspension travel, does the suspension move enough to justify a longer track arm that attaches all the way across to the other frame rather than half way at the engine cross member?

With the 3.5" lift it looks like you are still using all of the suspension travel...are you hitting the stock bump stops at full flex? And the 35s look to be about as big as the fender wells will allow at full travel.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Now that you seem to have more suspension travel, does the suspension move enough to justify a longer track arm that attaches all the way across to the other frame rather than half way at the engine cross member?

With the 3.5" lift it looks like you are still using all of the suspension travel...are you hitting the stock bump stops at full flex? And the 35s look to be about as big as the fender wells will allow at full travel.
I haven't done a lot of hardcore flexing in it, and the track bar I have seems to be working fine. I don't see what the benefit would be of a longer arm? Id think if a shorter arm attaches halfway you can still get the same length of travel....

as far as hitting the stock bumpstop blocks, I never weighed it down enough to try and hit them before I put mudflaps on my truck. The arm for the mudflaps is welded to the frame several inches above the leaf spring, goes across the leaf spring, then drops down and goes horizontal again for the mudflap to mount on to. Once I put mudflaps on I put almost 3 tons of dirt in it and it squatted it enough just be barely sitting on the crossbar for the mudflaps. Doesn't bother me though because that was a very heavy load to be in the back of the truck and I don't think Ill ever be towing a horse trailer that will have that much tongue weight, and I don't need it to flex with that much weight in there if I have to haul some more dirt.
 

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I can start a separate thread if it makes sense...

Does someone make a rear shackle that uses the OBS spring mount bolt, the SD spring bolt and that does not require clearancing? I may be able to have some fabbed up if I had the dimensions. Does it make sense to use an OBS or a SD shackle as a starting point for beginning measurements?
 

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I can start a separate thread if it makes sense...

Does someone make a rear shackle that uses the OBS spring mount bolt, the SD spring bolt and that does not require clearancing? I may be able to have some fabbed up if I had the dimensions. Does it make sense to use an OBS or a SD shackle as a starting point for beginning measurements?
My velvet ride shackles I bought from TomS will work on both. Those are the only ones I know about.
 
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