[RedBearded1]

Before you buy a new map, sensor, check the wiring. These trucks are old and produce a lot of heat in the engine compartment. It could be that you have a cracked, broken or loose wire on the map sensor. Even a crack in the insulation can cause problems.

Wiring all looks good. Not cracked or brittle or visibly damaged in any way. Don’t appear to be loose in the connector.

 

[RedBearded1]

Update:
After disconnecting and reconnecting the map sensor connector, that fault is gone and hasn’t shown up again yet.
I changed the oil,oil filter, and both fuel filters. I figured they could use them anyways. No change to performance though. Tried to pick up a fuel pressure test kit from o Reilly’s but they didn’t have a fitting for for diesels.

I’m pretty sure it’s not a boost leak anymore. I have checked and rechecked everything. The exhaust def adds restriction, but that doesn’t solve my issue.

next step is icp sensor? Is there a way to test that?

 

[79jasper]

You can get one of these, then use any cheapo fuel pressure tester. 6.0L Ford Powerstroke Diesel Fuel Pressure Test Port & Adapter w/ Schrader Valve | eBay
I would say no definitive way to test the icp. You can watch the data it gives, or try unplugging it.

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[RedBearded1]

So I got a wild hair late last night and decided to check out the ipr and icp. The ipr pigtail Had melted insulation and exposed wires. There wasn’t any sign of arcing between the wires, but I doctored it up by replacing the bad section of wire. The connector itself seemed fine and I could read continuity between my splice and the appropriate pin.

The icp connector was wet and had oil in it. Tried cleaning it up a bit and reinstalling. I didn’t pull either the icp or ipr As I don’t have replacements. Truck ran about the same after the test.

not sure if I mentioned it, but the low power, slow rpm climb issue is worse until the engine warms up to normal temps, which takes a while when just idling. (10-15 min)

 

[RedBearded1]

Oh, but for the first time, after fixing up the wires, I was able to build boost while power breaking. Earlier in the day it wouldn’t do that.

 

[79jasper]

not sure if I mentioned it, but the low power, slow rpm climb issue is worse until the engine warms up to normal temps, which takes a while when just idling. (10-15 min)

Sounds like worn injectors to me. Could try a heavy dose of RevX or stiction eliminator to see if it gets any better.

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[Bigmatthew86]

Have you replaced the icp sensor? With the pigtail being oil soaked it needs it if not.

 

[RedBearded1]

Have you replaced the icp sensor? With the pigtail being oil soaked it needs it if not.

Not yet. It was 2 am by the time I got that far and needed to get the truck back together for the morning. The pigtail did not have signs of wear or damage, aside from the oil. And it looks like a real mother to replace the pigtail. But I should just get a new icp and pigtail shouldn’t I? The icr def needs a new pigtail. I’m just debating getting the whole new harness.

 

[Bigmatthew86]

You should definitely replace the sensor. I might would just get some electrical cleaner & clean the piss out of the pigtail first. I'm sure replacing it wouldn't hurt but I don't like extra work if I don't need it. Some rev x or archoil wouldn't hurt either. I think you're close.

 

[RedBearded1]

So, I’ve ordered up some parts for testing fuel pressure, icp etc and picked up some stiction eliminator.

before adding the stiction eliminator, I wanted to bring our travel trailer home from a storage unit across town. I was kinda surprised that there was no change in performance. I was kinda expecting the extra load to make a difference but it didn’t. Barely noticed it was there.Same lag, but then same power once it got up in Rpms.

after letting the truck cool I dropped a quart or so from the oil to add in the stiction goop. Started it up and let it warm up then checked oil level and took it for a drive. It’s definitely quicker. I’m down to 3 seconds before the boost really kicks in and it takes off like a rocket. Which is pretty manageable. I’m not sure if it was the additive or the stars just aligned for all the shitty parts to start working at the same time, but it definitely drove better. Faster to get to higher boost levels.

So, what does that tell us? Injectors wearing out?

 

[cjfisher]

I had heard that the high pressure spool valves in the 6.0 injectors are different and prone to wearing out. I guess they make shim kits for them.

 

[79jasper]

I had heard that the high pressure spool valves in the 6.0 injectors are different and prone to wearing out. I guess they make shim kits for them.

They get gummed up. (That's the stiction you hear about) I've never heard of shimming then on a 6.0, more of a 7.3 thing, iirc.

Either keep running a additive or plan on replacing. With the stiction eliminator, you run the 2 quart bottle for a first treatment.
Have heard of manually cleaning, but....


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[cfherrman]

I would start saving and planning on new injectors, definitely try the stiction eliminator as much as you can. Try to have a plan for winter for new injectors if stiction doesn't clear up. When it gets cold and a day you don't need the truck try to start it unplugged and cold.
If you already have forscan I think that can run a cyl contribution test so I'd do that.

 

[RedBearded1]

I would start saving and planning on new injectors, definitely try the stiction eliminator as much as you can. Try to have a plan for winter for new injectors if stiction doesn't clear up. When it gets cold and a day you don't need the truck try to start it unplugged and cold.
If you already have forscan I think that can run a cyl contribution test so I'd do that.

Thanks man. I’m just waiting for the adapter to show up to hook forscan to it and play around with that.

hard to say if injectors are worth it. A new set of injectors is half the price I paid for the truck. I assume that just changing all the injectors at once is the way to go. At 208,000 on a stock, non bulletproofed motor is it worth it?

I took it for another drive today and it was crazy how much of a difference that stuff made. It drives like a normal vehicle now! I’ll play around with it a bit more in the next few weeks.

 

[Bigmatthew86]

Honestly at this point I get out there & drive the hell out of it. Monitor your temps, volts, maybe icp, & ipr & give it to it.

 

[79jasper]

At 208,000 on a stock, non bulletproofed motor is it worth it?

I would say yes. At a minimum, lose the egr and egr cooler.
I went with Warren diesel injectors. I would say I was happy with them. Decently priced as well.

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[Bigmatthew86]

& straight pipe that bad boy.

 

[bismic1]

IMO the ONLY injectors worth buying are the OEM remanufactured injectors. They are decently priced at Auto Nation White Bear Lake. I can post a link if needed.

I do think that the NEW injectors made by Pure Power are good also, I just haven't tried them or even seen much posted on them - as far as real world experiences go.

 

[cfherrman]

^ Yes ford only.

Injectors are a wear item and you inherit how long they last from previous owners maintenance.

The stiction fixer is like a bandaid you can keep reapplying, as long as it doesn't mess with your cold starts run it. If I recall stiction additives have fixed a lot of trucks. I would still try to get $1500 saved by winter though as it sounds like you make money with your truck.

Biggest thing in my mind is the egr delete and FICM electric system, studs are only needed if you push the truck too much with heat or boost. If you tow heavy use your scanner to watch the temps as the gauge lies to you and I would keep it under 20 psi boost, you can a lot done at 20 psi. I've probably done more crazy stuff with a stock overweight 6.0 than most people will ever do.

 

[bismic1]

^ Yes ford only.

Injectors are a wear item and you inherit how long they last from previous owners maintenance.

The stiction fixer is like a bandaid you can keep reapplying, as long as it doesn't mess with your cold starts run it. If I recall stiction additives have fixed a lot of trucks. I would still try to get $1500 saved by winter though as it sounds like you make money with your truck.

Biggest thing in my mind is the egr delete and FICM electric system, studs are only needed if you push the truck too much with heat or boost. If you tow heavy use your scanner to watch the temps as the gauge lies to you and I would keep it under 20 psi boost, you can a lot done at 20 psi. I've probably done more crazy stuff with a stock overweight 6.0 than most people will ever do.

I sure like that you included "heat" as well as boost. Overheating the coolant AND the oil can be the source of quite a few issues. Some people do not realize how much hotter the oil can get beyond what they see from the EOT sensor. I have seen the crankcase oil at 50 degrees hotter than the EOT reading. IMO oil the heats up past 275 degrees can begin to be an issue - even impacting o-ring integrity. So, personally I do not like to see oil past 225 or 230 in our 6.0's.