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Discussion Starter #81
Okay so here is another update. I gave the truck a bit of a trial by fire this weekend. 2 hour drive hauling my 8000lb travel trailer in 95 degree heat. And it’s in Wyoming so lots of hills are a given. Also 40 mph head winds.
The truck had a pretty hard time on the way there. I tried switching to the 65 hp tow tune. The truck was getting hot. Close to 250 EOT near the end of the drive.
Also popped some cac boots loose.

I swapped out the degas cap for a new one and did the fan switch mod when I was there.

On the drive home, I took it easier, keeping it at about 60 mph, and used the switch on the big hills. It drove much better. Without the wind it drove pretty good. Still got hotter than I would like. Looks like I might(must, drivers side, lower front of the engine bay is pretty gross) have a coolant leak somewhere but haven’t found it yet. I also disconnected the exhaust for the drive just so I wouldn’t have that restriction.

Not sure if any of those “mods” were a good idea but I made it home at least.

I’ve got the elm 327 adapter and forscan setup now. What should I do with it now? My fuel pressure adapter showed up too so that’s on the list of things to check.
 

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I recommend Keeping the boost under 20, ECT under 230, eot under 230-240 ish, just take your foot out of it if you have too. The truck can take more but I run a bit on the safe side.

Do you have the blue spring upgrade? It keeps higher fuel pressure in the system.

You probably have injector #3 out
 

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Discussion Starter #84
I recommend Keeping the boost under 20, ECT under 230, eot under 230-240 ish, just take your foot out of it if you have too. The truck can take more but I run a bit on the safe side.

Do you have the blue spring upgrade? It keeps higher fuel pressure in the system.

You probably have injector #3 out
Keeping it under 230 seemed impossible, But under 240 was definitely doable by just taking it easy.

im Gonna do a coolant flush soon. I’m pretty sure it’s a mishmash of gas station coolant in it. And it looks like it’s got some junk in there too.

Now I’m not sure what needs to be tackled next.
exhaust
Blue spring
Egr delete(or upgrade?)
Oil cooler
Coolant filter
Injector

what would you prioritize?
 

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As long as the injector is not throwing a code or causing your boost to spike, and truck has enough power, and is not blowing a lot of black smoke I'd do that one towards the end.

Unplug your EGR valve, not a total fix and might set a cel, but it helps.

I'd do the blue spring rather quick, it's cheap around $50-75 irc and will prevent other injectors from getting too low pressure.

Your exhaust should be fine, 4" helps on egts, but the sound is totally worth it. So that can wait.

I would do the oil cooler and egr delete at the same time. Only do upgrade if your in a state that does emissions.

I think the current recommend coolant is cat elc, ford gold is good but for only 50k.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
I’ve ordered up the blue spring update. I’m also going to do a coolant flush soon and plan on swapping out the oil cooler and do the egr delete.

after playing with forscan I found that cylinder 3 and 5 injectors wouldn’t click during a cold test. Only 3 wouldn’t click once it was up to temp. As another test I tried Disabling 3 and 5 injectors Which didn’t change how it ran. Though it wasn’t really warmed up when I did that test.

time to start saving for injectors. Might just have to get one side done at a time though to save cash. The motor isn’t the only thing that needs work on this unit. Thanks fellas.
 

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Archoil or Rev-X might help with those two injectors. No guaranty, but worth a shot. You could also try cleaning the spool valves. IMO if they're not firing now, you're not going to make it any worse. lol There are a couple videos out there on how to do it. The big things to remember are to keep the valve aligned properly when you reinstall it, so make sure you pay attention when you remove it, and to not get over zealous when cleaning. Yeah it's supposed to have DLC on it, and you're only supposed to use something like 1200 grit paper, but some have said they decided to take a shortcut and scrape before the paper....then they regretted it.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Archoil or Rev-X might help with those two injectors. No guaranty, but worth a shot. You could also try cleaning the spool valves. IMO if they're not firing now, you're not going to make it any worse. lol There are a couple videos out there on how to do it. The big things to remember are to keep the valve aligned properly when you reinstall it, so make sure you pay attention when you remove it, and to not get over zealous when cleaning. Yeah it's supposed to have DLC on it, and you're only supposed to use something like 1200 grit paper, but some have said they decided to take a shortcut and scrape before the paper....then they regretted it.
Are archoil or rev x a good idea if I’ve just used stiction eliminator?

Also, I read on a post about coolant that oil should be changed if it has gotten past 250 f. I’ve never heard of that before. I just changed the oil last week or so, but my truck did make it past 250 for a few minutes on that trip last weekend.
 

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Archoil and rev x are stiction eliminators irc

I think 250 deg is a breaking down temp for oil, so it's not good on it, myself I'd just look at the dipstick and see how the oil is, maybe shorten the miles on this change.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Bit of an update:
Blue spring kit came in last night. Will install today. Doing a coolant flush right now with restore( drained and flushed coolant, added restore and distilled water, drove at temp for over an hour, drained.) . In the process of flushing with distilled water now. Flushed 3 times after the restore. The first drainage came out with a lot of white milky sludge. It looked like the coolant system was the star of a Japanese porno. Still getting pretty milky colored coolant at each drain.
I know an oil cooler/egr delete are in my near future but wanted to get the garbage coolant flushed now, as I had no idea what was in there.


Also, the main problem has returned. Back to low power, slow rpm spool up at low rpms. The Hot shot stiction eliminator seemed to work for about a week but that’s it.
Ordered some rev X and gonna change the oil again next week and add that to see if that helps. #5 injector is still intermittent of whether it passes the forscan test. Works when warm, fails when cold.
 

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If you have more time than money, I would pull the injectors and clean the spool valves. May not gain you a lot of time, but will help.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #92
As long as the injector is not throwing a code or causing your boost to spike, and truck has enough power, and is not blowing a lot of black smoke I'd do that one towards the end.

Unplug your EGR valve, not a total fix and might set a cel, but it helps.

I'd do the blue spring rather quick, it's cheap around $50-75 irc and will prevent other injectors from getting too low pressure.

Your exhaust should be fine, 4" helps on egts, but the sound is totally worth it. So that can wait.

I would do the oil cooler and egr delete at the same time. Only do upgrade if your in a state that does emissions.

I think the current recommend coolant is cat elc, ford gold is good but for only 50k.
Forgive my ignorance but what would unplugging my egr valve do?
 

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Keep it closed, it will still leak but less gas from the exhaust will get it the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Another update:
Coolant has been flushed and replaced with. ec-1 rated coolant. I’m still thinking an oil cooler is in my future. Blue spring upgrade was completed. Had an egr valve code, so I pulled it to inspect and function tested it using forscan. There was a little bit of shmoo in there but not much. Cleaned out the electrical connection and the code cleared. And guess what I noticed that I feel dumb about not seeing before? The EGR has been deleted. Glad I saw that before buying a new kit. Should I unplug the egr valve? In the sct tuner there is a spot to enter if the egr is deleted. Should I change it in those settings and how will that effect how it runs?

truck still ran sluggish like it did at the start. Added some fuel additive and filled the tank. Truck runs a lot better again. So I think I’m gonna leave it alone for a while and save for new injectors, at least for the passenger side bank before winter comes.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Oh cool this just happened.....
202105


never happened before.... just air after the coolant flush or head gaskets? Truck is staying cooler than it had.
 

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Both are possibilities. I had a couple burps like that. Clean it off, make sure you have a good cap which releases only at 16PSI, and see if it happens again. If it does, might be time to check the pressure in the cooling system.
 

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I constantly monitor the pressure in the degas bottle. It is helpful to know if it is holding pressure or if you have a leak or a weak cap on the degas bottle.

Take a good look at the coolant in the degas bottle. Make sure that it doesn't smell like diesel or have some oil liquid floating on top!
 

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Discussion Starter #98
IMO the ONLY injectors worth buying are the OEM remanufactured injectors. They are decently priced at Auto Nation White Bear Lake. I can post a link if needed.

I do think that the NEW injectors made by Pure Power are good also, I just haven't tried them or even seen much posted on them - as far as real world experiences go.
I’m having a hard time finding the oem Reman injectors. Any chance you got a link handy?
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Part # 4C3Z-9E527-BRM

Thank you. No sooner did I click that link, that I noticed I have a radiator leak. The hits just keep on coming with this truck.
 
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