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Dcs has a wiring service they offer...

Give them your old harness and they rewire it for your engine.

They may not know much about the engine your working on... but I believe its not much different electrical wise than a 12v Cummins.

They are familiar with the newer Ford's so they might help wiring it up so you can retain the pcm and related components.

I almost sent them my harness... and I may regret it later... but I managed to determine that I didn't need the pcm from the dodge to put into my Ford... but my truck is old so no real electronics or abs or pcm.... wish I had abs though lol
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
GOODBOY, thanks for tip, I might grab a harness from the local pick and pull so I have everything done before I start the swap.

I got the body off the bus and on my trailer today. It was quite easy once u got it lifted up and sat on blocks. Now I can get it up to pressure washer and cleaned up. Bus is a bit long for my trailer but scrap yard isnt to far away.
 

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Discussion starter · #43 ·
A few more, and I'd anyone needs to know, I jacked bus up about 10 inches and put two telephone poles under body to roll it back enough to clear dash. This was high enough to be 6 inches higher than my trailer. I out two 4x4 post under bus body and onto trailer so I could just roll it over onto trailer with tractor.
 

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Discussion starter · #44 ·
Bus was hauled to scrap today, it weighed right at 7k, so I'm into my motor for nothing and have the hood axles and transmission to sell. I got pressure washer out and started cleaning the 20+ years of dirt and gravel off of the frame, fuel tank, and engine. Being a midwest vehicle I expected lots of rust, and so far none to speak of, it was definitely driven on dirt and gravel roads a lot so maybe it didn't see salted pavement much.

Does anyone have any experience with Eaton transmissions, I really want to change mine over to an OD transmission. I've looked over the service manual for mine and for the OD version, it shows same gears from 2nd to 9th, with the lowest gear removed and a OD gear installed at the other end of the stack being the difference. I called my local Eaton service dept today and the guy told me swapping the stack would make the gear splits horrible and that I would hate driving ot setup that way. I'm confused at what he meant. Has anyone done the OD swap before.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
Here is the gear range on the RT and the RTO setups, unless I'm missing something a simple removal of the low gear and addition of the OD gear will put me exactly where I want.
 

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Discussion starter · #46 ·
The flatbed I built for my bed still has the headache rack missing, I've been indecisive on what I wanted to go with. Now with the bus part and seeing the factory fuel tank and safety cage, I think I'm going to incorporate both into my headache rack adding a very strong structure to the bed and a nice amount of extra fuel capacity in a DOT approved tank and support.
 

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Discussion starter · #47 ·
Got some daylight pics of the motor now that its cleaned.
 

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there is something wrong with that motor. There is not enough oil on the outside it may not run right anymore. The tank idea sound neat will look forward to seeing how you do it.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
It's only got 100k on it, so just now breaking in, it's only diesel I have that doesnt mark its territory.
 
It's only got 100k on it, so just now breaking in, it's only diesel I have that doesnt mark its territory.
I completely resealed my truck when I had the motor out I like not having drips on the ground.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
I completely resealed my truck when I had the motor out I like not having drips on the ground.

I agree, its annoying at home and work where I'm the only diesel vehicle.
 
Hey man, I love the idea, I'm sub'd. I'm currently doing an eaton swap myself and have learned a little about them. I gear swapped my rto trans to get the .62 OD ratio. I talked to their service department and was able to get a full parts book and service manual to print, 3-hole punch and put in a binder lol. If you plan to do work yourself on the trans, they both are worth their weight in gold. Since you dont have OD I assume you have n RT or RTF 10 speed? If so, I believe you need the RTO auxillary gear set out of an RTO or an RTOF trans. Unless you have a super 10. Unless you can find another aux box out of a scrap yard, it can get pricey. I believe what the person from their support line was referring to was the throw of the shifter. I could be mistaken but the RTOF trans were designed for cabovers and they had a longer throw on the shifter and I'm not sure if a standard shift tower will bolt up in place of the remote tower. Eaton made minor changes in the bolt pattern on each model that make simple ideas, difficult. I have a question of my own also; what is the size comparison on that transfer case you have when compared to a standard pickup case? I'm mounting a belt drive bendix air compressor for air service and I love the idea of an air shift transfer case over a divorced NP205 but the lack of space is beginning to concern me.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Thanks for info, I have the RT 1110 trans, so is the rear box what I need to swap or change the center stack of gears. My top plate has the same bolt pattern as the standard position trans. I have the service manual for the transmission that's what I keep reading and trying to reference to the local Eaton service dept.

If I could find a set of used 3.73 or 3:53 gears for my Dana s130 rear axle that weren't over 1k, I would just swap gears front and rear and put a data 70hd front ring and pinion in my super 60 axle. Other than the rear gearset that would be a fairly cheap swap and get me where I want in the rpm range doing highway speeds with a 1:1 ratio towing.

If I can find a spare case to take pic beside I will, I can get some beside a 48re trans
 
Ive searched and I'm not sure what you need to change with that trans to get the OD. To turn the RTO into an RTOO trans, I had to swap the input shaft gearset with 3rd gear gearset it also changes a couple of gear steps and swaps the shifter position for 3 and 4. I can't find any trucker forums about gear swapping the rt1110. Or using the rto aux box gearset. I know that RTO trans usually had overdrive in the aux box, mine does. You might be able to get away with just swapping the 2 gear sets but the countershaft gears are pressed on. I had to take them to work so I can use the 55 ton press. Left c-shaft gears broke loose at about 35 tons, the right one at 48 tons, sounded like someone lit off an m80 in the shop.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
Well been working on my sons vehicle he turns 16 in three weeks so that's taking priority.

Did get an answer finally on transmission, I need two new gears not just the one to make it a true RTO. This will give me equal splits throughout the gears. Everything to do the switch is just over 400 so that's for sure going to happen.

Bought a 06 Cummins turbo for 30 bucks, going to rebuild it and should be a great upgrade from the stock one, and is a great turbo if I ever want to do a compound setup.

After doing a lot of reading I'm going to try and rotate the bus radiator/inner cooler 45 degrees and gain the 6 or so inches of clearance from the stock setup. This will also put my cooler hot and cold on correct sides of motor to eliminate the crossover tube. I will do all this on the bus frame to check for any flow issues. There isnt a cap on the bus radiator so no problem with that being on side.

Looking for an AG balance and water pump pulley to shorten front end of motor as much as possible. Going to shorted water pump stem like several other builds have done only nets 2 inches but adds ups quick.
 
Well been working on my sons vehicle he turns 16 in three weeks so that's taking priority.

Did get an answer finally on transmission, I need two new gears not just the one to make it a true RTO. This will give me equal splits throughout the gears. Everything to do the switch is just over 400 so that's for sure going to happen.

Bought a 06 Cummins turbo for 30 bucks, going to rebuild it and should be a great upgrade from the stock one, and is a great turbo if I ever want to do a compound setup.

After doing a lot of reading I'm going to try and rotate the bus radiator/inner cooler 45 degrees and gain the 6 or so inches of clearance from the stock setup. This will also put my cooler hot and cold on correct sides of motor to eliminate the crossover tube. I will do all this on the bus frame to check for any flow issues. There isnt a cap on the bus radiator so no problem with that being on side.

Looking for an AG balance and water pump pulley to shorten front end of motor as much as possible. Going to shorted water pump stem like several other builds have done only nets 2 inches but adds ups quick.
Hope the boy is driving and enjoying the freedom.
Any updates on bus?:grin:
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
LOL, I wish chasing down electrical crap trying to get headlights to work on his jeep. I'm going to put him in my 1997 F350 for now if I don't get Jeep done this weekend. As soon as I get it out of my shop Bus will be going back in to get the motor yanked So I can start mounting up the transmission and transfer case to get cross-members made. I'm looking at about a months time this summer to get it done after the first cutting of hay when I wont absolutely have to have this truck and can run the 97. I travel most of the spring for work so I loose 2 weekends a month to work on stuff and end up working the farm the two I am home.

Still have some things to really dig into like the interior electronics. I will be doing all manual gauges in a custom made dash bezel for sure. I really like the idea of using the master cylinder from the bus on the truck its electric assisted hydraulic, I would loose the ABS, but not sure if that really matters to much to me.

If anyone has a wire diagram for the the 08-11 trucks I would really appreciate it, I can lay that out and determine what I need to keep and what I can get rid of.
 
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Discussion starter · #58 ·
Well I have been really distracted/prioritizing the last few months, I travel 12 weeks from Jan 1 to may 31st so not a lot gets done other than necessity items around the farm. I'm well into hay season and getting show heifers up and going. I bought a project jeep with no motor to put one I have laying around in to flip and make the remainder of the money I need for the conversion.

I have the bus all the way to the frame the motor is stripped down and sealed up ready to pull. I have to say buying a whole vehicle and taking it apart is so much easier figuring out exactly what I need and dont need. I'm not sure if it applies to the f250 or f350 but on the f550 the frame rails are the same width as the bus frame rails. This allows me to use the motor mounts and front crossmember from bus on the truck so only holes need to be drilled no mounts built. I will also be using the transmission mounts and a crossmember from mid frame to support the transfer case.

I have been really researching the transmission conversion to and OD setup have the parts saved in the cart and all. Then this week when I was looking for tractor parts I found a Eaton automatic transmission with OD. The automatic solenoid was shot on it but everything else is good to go, so a manual parts swap from my 10 speed to this 10 speed is under way.. I will post the transmission info as I do the conversion over the next few days.
 

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Discussion starter · #59 ·
More pics of mounts and parts pile
 

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Discussion starter · #60 ·
A few from transmission conversion first ones are the new automatic.
 

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