Start of comparison between the two, the gears on the RT model are coarse tooth the RTO much finer gears. The RTO is a higher torque model as you can see by the huge bell housing, yoke, and beefier case. The RT model has the smoothest gears, you can spin main shaft and it will turn several times but I think this is because of the tooth configuration and difference in bearings
Getting main shaft bearing removed and cleaned up for a new bearing. Practiced on the RT model but found it was a much different setup. Not sure if I need one but have it apart might as well do the easy stuff.
Today I got the air valve body removed and inspected to swap over onto the RTO case. I also got the bellhousing face cleaned up and ready for pressure washing then paint. Scraped the gaskets from the top plate area and the main shaft bearing cover.
Does anyone have any suggestions on washing out the inside of the case to make sure the old grease, dirt, and any metal debris is all out.
Finished cleaning parts to swap over, got them painted, made new gaskets, and started putting the manual air components on the RTO case. The high low selector on back of case went on easy, I tested it with air and all seems good.
I did run into one small snag, the automatic RTO case doesn't have the mounting holes for the high low body that's controlled on the shifter, the computer does all this. The plunger, spring and collar are much different on the auto setup, it's just a plunger and spring held in with a plug.
I think I will turn a new plunger with the size and length of the head section on the AT, and the back shaft to hold spring from the MT setup. I will have to drill and tap the mounting holes for the valve body into the AT case.
If anyone has any thoughts or suggestions please let me know.
Got my shop all cleaned out and started to get everything put back in place after the flood. I decided to cut the frame and use it as a mock up platform since its same width as my truck. Here are some picks of progress, lots of hours but not a huge amount accomplished.
I have the input shaft bearing and yoke seal ordered for the Eaton. I am spinning up the new piece for the transmission conversion when I get the lathe set ba I on floor and hooked back up to power.
Right now I'm fighting the torque converter bolts hopefully I dont strip a head.
Sitting on stands in shop, if your swapping a dt360 into a 450 or 550 make sure you get the front motor mount/crossmember it is a great design to swap. The large c fits into frame and crossmember bolts to that so it can be adjusted for height and width very easy.
I need some advise, I am wanting to paint the motor before I get the trans and everything attached. I haven't ever painted a motor and I'm not sure how to get it super clean to ensure the paint sticks. I can pressure wash with grease cutter, will that be enough for the engine enamel to stick well.
Nothing leaks on the motor so I don't want to remove anything I don't have to, it would be nice to pull the exhaust manifold blast it, and coat in the high temp ceramic coating like the turbo housing will be. I am also thinking of going International Red with silver accessories on the motor vs the Navistar blue everything.
Got some little things done yesterday, first I bought a 6.0 turbo that needed a rebuild to either use or rebuild and sell. Was told shaft spun free but needed bearing. Well shaft spun. Free because it was broke in half. Not sure it's worth a rebuild it's going on the later projects table. I still have the izusu i6 turbo, but it looks to be same size as stock or just a bit smaller on the cold air side, just the housing design is bigger because of the flange.
Today i picked up a ht60 from a n14 Cummins, looks good spins free was pulled when swapping n14 for a cat. I think i will use this as a compound setup with the stock turbo. Both turbos have really cheap rebuild kits if they need them, should make way more boost than i will ever need and give me a powerband from idle all the way to 2500 rpm.
I took the exhaust manifold off its going to a buddy to get some new heat dispersing coating applied. Apparently in race car testing it stays 30% cooler than no coating and cools faster than no coating. It will be applied to both turbos on the hot side as well.
Need some advise or opinions. If I want to make 300ish horsepower from this motor, what size injectors do I need to look at, can i mod my a pump to fit this number, and would a compound turbo setup provide me the best powerband from takeoff to 2500rpm. I want steady power for heavy towing not racing. Reliability and driveability are a must.
My name is Dustin and I am 17 and looking for some help with my Cummins and manuel NV4500 swap.
I have the engine and trans in the truck but they need mounts.
And I was wondering if you guys knew how to build some custom ones or knew a place that had mounts for good deal? I have...
Wanted a real crew, 8' bed, a cummins, and a reliable good mileage cummins at that. This is how I decided to go.
Buy a dodge, and buy a ford, put them together, get a Fummins!
2000 Dodge, standard 235hp, with nv5600, 4wd
L99 f350 crew dually, 7.3 auto 4wd
I have a 99 f350 with the 7.3 with large amount of rust, dents, and scratches on the cab, but the motor runs and works great. when looking around online I found a 2010 6.4 with a blown motor for a very low price, and i was wondering if i could swap the cab from the 2010 onto the frame of my 99...
As the title says I'm in the beginning process/planing of a 24 valve swap into my 92 F350.... Omg I'm so excited! Lol...
I have a 2001 dodge 4x4 standard 6 speed write off that I bought... Before I rip into it and start selling parts I don't want or need... What am I going to want off of the...
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