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Discussion Starter #22
its just lifted up setting on blocks on the frame, because everything is tucked under the body I am having a hard time getting it high enough to roll frame out and clear fender wells and entry door.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Not really an improvement to the build, but got new shoes on the truck, I went with some G ply highway tires, they seem to be a bit softer than the H ply that were on it. I can't really find any off road type tires in a 19.5 that fit my rims so I went with best highway performance.

After looking over the bus body more, I think I can cut a section of the floor and the bottom part of the entry steps to slide the body back enough to start it on a trailer, or be able to just tip it over on the trailer.

I am clutch shopping right now and trying to decide what clutch to get. Since I will be jumping to the OTR models, I'm not sure what level of clutch I need. I'm looking at a dual disc clutch, but is that overkill for my use.

I've drove several different OTR trucks, but never knew what clutches were in them, most were 13 speeds, and I always shifted without the clutch just used it for takeoff, probably be the same with this truck, just clutch for takeoff.
 

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why not get a couple of 4X4, and some oil drums? slide the 4X4's between frame and body, and set the ends on oil drums. then you can drive the frame out from under it.
cut the front 5 foot or so off the body leaving the driver station, steps, and front door on the frame. this way you can still drive it around instead of pushing or pulling it.
 

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why not get a couple of 4X4, and some oil drums? slide the 4X4's between frame and body, and set the ends on oil drums. then you can drive the frame out from under it.
cut the front 5 foot or so off the body leaving the driver station, steps, and front door on the frame. this way you can still drive it around instead of pushing or pulling it.
That is how I see them in the yard @ Thomas Built buses in High Point, NC.

Looks like a cab & chassis set up in bus form
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So my bus separates at the firewall, the dash is part of the bus body firewall is part of chassis. I like drum idea, I will have to see if it will clear fender wells.

I told my wife buying a 973 track loader would be really helpful to get this off, but that idea was shot down real quick.
 

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rite. just sawzall the body off behind the driver station. this way you will still have a running driving rolling chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
On e body is removed I will just weld seat onto frame and have adriveable chassis, I took some pics for reference, the only part of the drivable chassis from international that is connected to the body is the seat.

First pic shows bus about 4 inches on blocks above frame, second and third are body separated and above the dash that stays connected to the chassis, fourth shows floor under pedals lifted, it will have to be cut back to lift body any more, sixth is space behind stairs before fuel tank frame starts.

I think just sawzall cutting it in half will be easy way to get it done much easier to deal with smaller sections.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So reading over several other 360 builds and the one thing I keep seeing is people trying to fit the 360 motor length into truck with ford factory radiators and intercooler. My bus has the split radiator and aftercooler, I think I can make it fit in the truck. This should gain me a few inches, I would like to run a clutch fan, i dont like the idea of electric fans. I'm looking for the length of an ag fan pulley to see if it will decrease enough length to fit.

Another question I have is can I use the electric/hydraulic brake booster from bus on the truck, the thing pushes fluid 20ft on huge lines, I dont see how this wouldn't be an upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
So today was above freezing so I decided to get out my Christmas present and clean the transmission, got as much grease as I could off inside of bell housing and underside. Wish I knew what the grease pen writing meant.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
After I got it all cleaned off I just couldn't help myself, I have been wondering hom many miles transmission had on it and what kind of shape it was in internally. After seeing the grease pen writing I wanted to know if any of the gears had been changed out and or ratios changed from the factory tag.

I took off the cabover housing off, and the top cover plate. I was very suprised and please to what I found. There is no wear at all on any gears, the teeth still have all the factory machine marks on entire surface. Input shaft has a shiny spot where clutch sits but no engagement marks. In guessing this is a complete rebuild very recent to the truck being parked. I ran a tap in all the top bolt holes and cleaned and inspected all the bolts.

Tomorrow I will call Eaton and get a 10th gear tooth count to see if I still have factory 1:1 ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
More of gears
 

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Doing some measuring of the bus radiator/ aftercooler and the truck radiator and all the coolers. I think I can either move the factory stuff forward or use the bus setup. If I make a new cross support I can arrange stuff much better. I was thinking of a dual hood latch setup like old cherokees have by the fenders. This would open up where and how the cross support has to be. The Ford has a full 12 inches of coolers, if I can even gain half of that it would make setup so much easier. The factory bus radiator is 6 inches thick.

Please forgive my horrible drawing but these are deminsions from bus and truck.
 

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Just wanted to stop in and say nice build!

I'm not really familiar with this engine but after reading your thread and googling around the internet its not as uncommon I thought... and these 360 engines are stout and powerful!

I don't have much advice for you but I did want to say that if you are using the mechanical fan be sure to space it accordingly... while researching my swap I recall a couple of people who didn't give themselves enough space and the fan hit the rad....

I agree efans suck...literally lol. If you can stay away from them you're better off.

Good luck on your build...
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Goodboy, thanks I was surprised how common of a swap this is as well. If I use the bus radiator, I will keep everything in the same dimensions as it is on the bus, it worked well there from international so why mess with their knowledge.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Went to the pick yard today and got a tilt steering column really excited about that, lower dash cup holders, and the guage cluster from an 08. I've got several of the mechanical guages already. One thing I have overlooked is the odometer, if I am getting rid of my computers, what if anything controls the odometer, or should I put the odometer from bus in this cluster with the correct mileage.
 

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Most newer trucks use the speed sensors for spedometers and odometer. I think through the pcm... there are ways to go around it... depending on what kind of signal the spedometer is looking for there are several companies making interfaces and converters to create and or convert vss signals... if you keep the pcm it might help but honestly I don't know.... I would be concerned if your removing computers that you would loose stuff like antilock brakes, ac control and other stuff... the pcm could control a lot of stuff lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Goodboy that's what I'm worried about, mostly the abs, the ac controls will work when I wire it to the new compressor. I'm not sure what all else the PC controls that I want to keep.

I did find some new buckets seats for the truck that i will be installing, the drivers seat is getting a bit rough. I got the new headlights installed and wow they are so much brighter than the sealed beam lt style. New on driver side old on passenger.

I got my transfer case in today, it is great shape, shipped straight from the army corps of engineers, has the rebuild tag still attached from 1986, guess it's been sitting on a shelf for a few years. This thing is heavy like everything else I'm putting in to this build.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Did a bit of towing for a buddy today after work, love these old trucks that run good, this one needs back brakes hooked back up before it can hit the road. But dunphy bead works great cab is in good shape.
 

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