With a 99 it will either be an early 99 or a late 99.

 

ok. What is different between the two?

 

Different injectors- E99 had 120cc split shots. L99 had 140cc splits
Different HPOP- E99 had a 15* pump. L99 had a 17* pump.

 

Air intake heater is the easiest to find.

check the door jam for the production date, then pull the # of the drivers side valve cover with the date of production. Forged rods is always grate.

 

got this from another site but heres all the differences:
Early 99 has a wicked wheel in it from the factory.

The early99 has 130cc(AB code) injectors and the late99-03 has 140cc(AD code) injectors.

The early99 has 2" intake runners. The late99-03 has 3" intake runners.

The early99 has a 15* swash plate HPOP. The late99-03 has a 17* swash plate HPOP.

The early99 has one glow plug relay. The late99-03 has one glow plug relay and one air intake heater relay side by side. Both relays are on the passenger side valve cover toward the front of the truck.

The early99 has a totally different air filter that is not inter changeable with the late99-03. But you can put the late99 air cleaner assembly in the early99 truck. The only two aftermarket air filters that work on the early99 are the AFE stage 2 and the AIS.

The early99 track rod has smaller mounting bolts than the late99-03.

The early99 has shallower rotors than the late99-03.

The early99 has shorter hub-bearings than the late99-03.

The early99 front axle U bolts are square where they go over the spring pack. The late99 U bolts are round.

The early99 has a different pitman arm than the late99-03.

The early99 does not have the AIH like the late99-03.

The early99 does not have the automatic transmission fluid cooler in the radiator.

The early99 has no indicator light showing that "cruise" is on. Late99-03 has a cruise light that will come on when you set the cruise control. Some of the early99 truck have this light in the dash already. A newer PCM(Yes it will plug in and will run better too) must be used to make the cruise light illuminate. It is a green light on the right side edge, half way up.
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Im pretty sure the E99's had 120cc injectors AB code.

 

The easiest way to check would be to see what size the intake plenums are. Late 99 had 3" plenums and e99 had 2.5" or whatever dimension they are.

 

Either way, if you have a 99, you have a good motor that does include forged rods.

We are "blessed" with the HEUI injector system, basically each injector is an electronically fired hydraulic pump. It uses lube oil from the HPOP (high pressure oil pump) as hydraulic fluid. Fuel enters at low pressure (~60lbs) and leaves at way, way higher pressures. Reliablity in a stock form is incredible. Want to add power and it gets real expensive, real quick.

Other than that, the 7.3 is one awesome motor. Welcome to the Nation and welcome to the world of Powerstrokes. Any questions you have, we will be glad to help.

 

:whs: You did right by buying a 99 motor if you want to modify it. Whether you want to or not reliability is top notch.

 

Thanks for typeing all of that. It is still at the ford dealership because i asked them if they would change the oil and filters in the deal and they agreed to do it. When i get it back, i will look at the front u bolts because that sounds like the easiest way for me to see which one it is.

Is the early model the same truck as the last body style just with the new body on it? That sounds like alot of changes in a years time. If i understand all the differences right then it sounds like the late 99 is improved. Does the early 99 have problems that made ford change so much?

 

I wrote the last post after i read the last few yall typed. Sounds like its a good truck no matter which one it is.

 

The heaviest thing i pull is a 24 foot goose neck trailer with a john deere 4020 on it. Its pretty heavy but if my new truck pulls that much ok then i dont think i will need to put a programmer on it. I know a little about them but i have heard of alot of different ones and i just want to keep everything simple. I have to put a goose neck on it because it doesent have one yet. I made my last one so i will probably do it again when i get the money to buy the metal and the hitch.

 

Biggest thing to look at is the intake. The E99 was bad about breaking the little tabs that hold it in place. DIY 6637 intake mod gives you an open intake for about 50 bucks. Lets lots of air in. These trucks come with 3.5 in exhaust, you can remove the muffler and open that up a bunch.

One of the huge advantages of the 7.3 is the PCM. It has a place to plug a chip in. You can go with a vendors custom tuned chip. It gives you six different tunes. The sweet part is shift on the fly. You can change tunes by simply lettling off the throttle and turning a chip. Takes about 1.3 seconds to go from mild to wild.

My number one position is stock. My number six position if "grab yo a$$, cause all he!! is fixin' to break loose".

 

Haha. I hope stock will be good enough to tow my gooseneck and i will leave it be.

Can you tell me if there is a power difference between e99 and l99? I figured all those engine changes might have changed the performance.

 

A bit, not really enough to matter though.

 

Stock will tow your rig just fine without exceeding safe EGTs. If you add tuning you WILL need to add gauges to prevent melting down the motor.

Also you can swap in a later model PCM (up to 2001 IIRC) for better shift strategy if it's an automatic.

I bought mine with 148K and it's at 206K now and runs like a champ. Solid truck....no squeaks or rattles and everything works.

I have replaced the glow plugs and the hydroboost unit as the only major issues. Keep an eye on the brakes.....they wear out fairly quickly.

Other than that.......welcome to owning a REAL truck!

 

I've had pretty good luck with mine as well. But I have run into a few things over the years.....bought new in '03 now has 140k.
-Front brakes at 100k, new rotors, if you touch the brakes make sure you lube the piss out of the caliper slide pins.
-HPOP o-rings, if you start leaking oil check the valley on the engine
-Starter replaced mine at 90k, bolts were loose put some lock-tite blue on them no problems since.
-Bushings on the drop links for the sway bar, replaced with poly ones. Heat them up beat the piss out of them to get them out or find someone with a good bearing press
-O-ring for the dipstick in pan. Notorious leak point, haven't replaced mine yet but here is a good link to show how it's done.
Oil leak at dipstick tube flange fixed -with pics! - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
-Carrier bearing for drive shaft, replaced under warranty
-Up-pipes leaking, another common issue. You can simply replace the donut gaskets (what I did). Or go to the bellowed style up-pipes, DI makes a good set and so does International (wish I had the coin at the time to do this).
-CPS never really had any issues with mine. I keep a spare in the glove box with a 10mm (I think) socket.
-Water pump at 110k. The fan can be a bit of pain to get off, but if you got the right tools you can do it in an hour or two. If you have to replace it I would highly recommend doing a flush on the system.....it's in the tech info section on here.
[7.3L - Technical Info] - Powerstroke Nation

Spend some time looking around in there. Lots of good information.

A lot of good folks on here to help.

Welcome to the Nation!!

 

Hey, thanks everybody for giving me all of this information. Im excited about owning the famous 7.3 I love the way the motor sounds. They dont sound like that anymore.

 

No, no they don't. Nowadays, it is getting hard to tell the differance between the sound of a gasser and a diesel.

I like my truck sounding like a diesel.

 

Ford calls them"larger 120's".