It kind of depends on your hp goal and if you ever want to tow.

For something that can tow I would say
205/30 injectors
Kc turbos stage 2 or 3
Full custom fuel system with a a1000 pump and 1/2" lines and regulated return.
Head studs and oringed heads
Custom tunes
Ficm tuner
Stage 3 ported intake

 

Oh oh, perfect, that brings me to another question. What's the deal with towing? Seriously, how can increasing power drop the towing capacity? Other than it overheats, but every dash has a temp gauge.

 

subscribed! i'm wanting to say EGTs are gonna be way up there while towing unless you are smart with the injector size...something i'm interested in learning more about myself!

 

Turd is correct. Egts get too hot while towing. Fuel=heat. With larger nozzles you can't pull enough fuel to keep it cool.

Here is a dyno video with 205/30 injectors and a stage 3 turbo. 688 hp ain't too bad.

https://youtu.be/BFEeea26VlE

 

This guy doesn't tow, so its moot in this instance. But I don't dig the idea of building a monster and not towing with it. That's sort of like building the baddest gun on the planet, but not shooting it because the loads are too hot.

Is it simply too much load demand and too much to ask of it, or is it an over fueling issue? It's the turbine that gets damaged right? So maybe a titanium turbine to better take the heat? I'm sure someone out there makes one. Maybe even relocate the turbo further from the manifold? Though with its oil setup on the 6.0, that would not be easy.

I mean, if exhaust is black, that's partially burnt so it's simply too much fuel or not enough air. There's nothing efficient about billowing coal, it seems unnecessary in my mind, even a waste. Can't the same power be had without the smoke? Sled pulling type of power notwithstanding, since all of them belch coal, so obviously at some point the smoke is inevitable, but not at 600 hp right?

And yes, 688 for my first one will be just fine. I plan on ringing the head, can't help myself, I'm intrigued. I actually had never heard of it until recently, but i read up on it and the machining is not complicated at all. Though my mill is no full blown Bridgeport, it's about 1600 lbs. more than big enough to handle this. I assume I'll be able to find some dimensions online. If not, a gasket would make a good template.

 

It's an over fueling issue causing the heat. The egts are the issue because the piston are aluminum and will melt with to high of temps.
You are correct about the smoke. If it's black, something is not right.

For the heads there is a company that sells the cutter and the wire for the oring. I can't remember it right now but if he wants to keep from having head gasket issues I say get some reman heads with prongs from UFC.

Does this guy have a budget? Because this build is going to be expensive.

 

Does this guy have a budget? Because this build is going to be expensive.

Not really, not as far as I can tell. But he keeps changing his mind about which truck he wants to do it to. Whenever he makes up his mind, I'll take pics of it.

How expensive might we be talking here?

 

Another thing to remember about building diesels is there's no such thing as "too much air."

 

Yep. Can't run a diesel lean.
Just remember that a biggest turbo doesn't always mean the most air. It's possible to get to big of a turbo.

 

Oh how many times I have seen a mismatched turbo for a given application!

 

Dont forget a built trans. And depending on how big he goes with injectors, it might take big oil, so could be looking into a dual HPOP.

Let's see....$2500-3000 on injectors
$2500 turbo
$1000 full fuel system
$5000 trans
I'm guessing $1500-2000 for heads to be worked
Dual HPOP...I think those are up close to $5000

See why he said it'll get expensive?

Reliability will fall off if he plans to DD this thing. You can't drive a monster 6.0 if you don't know what you are doing. You'll melt it down within a week. And I would imagine getting a big turbo to spool in city traffic would be a nightmare.



Would I be wrong to assume this customer is a kid in his 20's with more money than sense?

 

Correction - More of his daddy's money than sense.

 

So what became of this monster?

 

He kept changing his mind about which truck he wanted to do it to. Just Last week he brought in a 99 with a 7.3. Which would have looked sweet when done. But the engine is toast, so the plans change again back to the 6.0.

Honestly I think the guy is full of ####. No doubt he wants to build a monster, but either he doesn't have the dough, or his wife won't let him spend it or something. Personally, I think he's just lonely and wants to talk about trucks, which is fine, but wasting my time is starting to annoy me a Little bit. I've got two of his trucks out behind the shop right now, taking up valuable space.

But, I did put a lift on a 13 Duramax last week. First lift I've ever done. Honestly, I think it looks stupid. But, It's not my truck, what I think is irrelevant.

All you Ford guys: be glad you don't have a Duramax. They are such a pain in the ass to work on, far worse than the 6.4, which is pretty bad but Of all the makes and models, anything with a Duramax is hands down the worst. But I've yet to work on a Ford 6.7, so I'm not sure how difficult those are.

 

First lift I've ever done

What type of lift?
My wife supports my habit

 

Honestly I can't remember who made it. I don't think I ever even paid attention to the brand. I wanna say superlift? But I don't think that's right. I can't remember how big the wheels were either, but they were big. Almost blew a nut putting them on. It's still out in the lot, I'll take a pic when I get to work and you guys can be the judge, cuz I think it looks dumb.

I will say that as much as I don't like lifting, this kit was well engineered. New knuckles instead of chintzy brackets and all that crap. It's a high quality lift as far as I can tell.

 

okay cool so a drop bracket lift for the IFS with extended knuckles

Drop bracket lifts are okay, they raise the COG quite a bit (lift frame/drivetrain and body up, only lowering diffs and tires) without really adding any suspension travel but they do make room for longer struts/shocks which can improve the ride if its a good quality lift.

Never install a lift with ball joint extensions! ever!
A body lift is far cheaper and accomplishes much of the same thing = without raising the frame/drivetrain a body lift will allow larger tires with less COG issues, however body lifts also can look stupid
They all have their place. I often am asked to install things I think look stupid too, but I support it 100% because its their taste and their ride!

Make sure you check the torque on some of those lift bolts after a few miles...

 

What's an IFS?

Also, ya lost me on body vs brackets. I've seen some lifts that just bolt brackets to the existing parts like knuckles and sway bars to gain the clearances. Then I've seen some that incorporate new parts like bigger knuckles, or control arms. I am not familiar with a body lift.

Hears the truck. Makes the two post look tiny doesn't it? I don't dig it at all, but I know that lots of people do.

Oh yeah, the lift was from Fabtech.

 

That's not terrible in my opinion, considering what most queerbaits are going for now. 10" lift with 26x14 rims and 40's. Every time i see one I immediately think of a donk.

 

Ifs is independent front suspension. Chevys look like someone gave them a wedgie through the fender wells.
I personally like lifted trucks.

 

this is my truck.

 

See, that one looks fine, it doesn't look unnatural. The Chevy looks like one of those old Tonka toys or something.

 

that lifts looks sweet! HAHAHAHA everything gets lifted here in CO

Fabtech makes good stuff. Two guys in a garage started Fabtech back in the day = good for them

Also, ya lost me on body vs brackets. I've seen some lifts that just bolt brackets to the existing parts like knuckles and sway bars to gain the clearances. Then I've seen some that incorporate new parts like bigger knuckles, or control arms. I am not familiar with a body lift.

Body lift = taller mounts, or "pucks" (often hockey pucks were used to lift the body) are used on top of the cab mounts to raise the whole cab up 2-3"
Body lifts are cool because they allow you to run larger tires. They are pretty cheap to purchase and they only raise the cab, so the center of gravity is only effected by the weight of the cab going up from the frame. Problem with body lifts is when you get to 3" or more you have to extend things like steering shaft, wiring, brake lines. Also they are kinda ugly when not finished (leave gaps) and they make the engine appear small under the hood. I try not to use them, but have used them to make room for larger tires (to complete a lift)
Larger tires are how we get ground clearance and traction, basically the goal.

Drop brackets, simply drop the diffs, control arms, and suspension parts down from the frame. Like what you installed. Sometimes they come with extensions for the upper balljoint = no way jose. Any type of steering extension or ball joint extension = cheap and scrary I do not install these type lifts at my shop. Instead I would fab a new steering shaft or whatever. Only drop bracket lifts with taller knuckles will get installed here (More $$$ because Fabtech, Superlift actually have to cast a new knuckle) Drop brackets for leaf springs or sway bars work fine...but again any lift that raises the entire frame/drivetrain and cab effects the center of gravtiy by pushing all that weight higher in the air. Drop bracket lifts do not really get you any more wheel travel or a better ride. But they do allow for larger tires and in some cases a much longer strut/shock = improved ride, but a taller COG

Long travel = this would be the type of suspension I am into, This would be longer control arms and CV axles, actually moving the wheel away from the frame. Wider = better. Wider = more wheel travel, we call it "cheater travel" Long travel suspensions do not always raise the vehicle, but they often have adjustable ride heights (threaded body coil over shocks) so you can pick whatever height you need to clear your tires. These are the big $$$$ lifts that will actually improve the ride of your vehicle and make it more capable off road.

Larger tires = more traction contact patch, More travel = keeps tires on the ground, this is what I am after when I build a truck. Wider is better, more travel and a lower COG will keep you moving forward off road.

They all have their place, most street queens use a bracket type lift and combo of body lift to stuff huge tires
Jeeps, Rangers, yotas and Broncos will usually have some sort of long travel and increased width lift on them if they are serious about off road, no body lift.

My Bronco II uses a 1/2" body drop (still stuffed a 5.0L V8 drivetrain in there), I run fiberglass front fenders so I can keep a low COG and still fit 35-37" tires. I then built a custom 5" lifted 4x4 TTB suspension, 9" wider then a stock truck, with 14" of wheel travel = bronco II go off road.

 

that lifts looks sweet! HAHAHAHA everything gets lifted here in CO

Fabtech makes good stuff. Two guys in a garage started Fabtech back in the day = good for them



Body lift = taller mounts, or "pucks" (often hockey pucks were used to lift the body) are used on top of the cab mounts to raise the whole cab up 2-3"
Body lifts are cool because they allow you to run larger tires. They are pretty cheap to purchase and they only raise the cab, so the center of gravity is only effected by the weight of the cab going up from the frame. Problem with body lifts is when you get to 3" or more you have to extend things like steering shaft, wiring, brake lines. Also they are kinda ugly when not finished (leave gaps) and they make the engine appear small under the hood. I try not to use them, but have used them to make room for larger tires (to complete a lift)
Larger tires are how we get ground clearance and traction, basically the goal.

Drop brackets, simply drop the diffs, control arms, and suspension parts down from the frame. Like what you installed. Sometimes they come with extensions for the upper balljoint = no way jose. Any type of steering extension or ball joint extension = cheap and scrary I do not install these type lifts at my shop. Instead I would fab a new steering shaft or whatever. Only drop bracket lifts with taller knuckles will get installed here (More $$$ because Fabtech, Superlift actually have to cast a new knuckle) Drop brackets for leaf springs or sway bars work fine...but again any lift that raises the entire frame/drivetrain and cab effects the center of gravtiy by pushing all that weight higher in the air. Drop bracket lifts do not really get you any more wheel travel or a better ride. But they do allow for larger tires and in some cases a much longer strut/shock = improved ride, but a taller COG

Long travel = this would be the type of suspension I am into, This would be longer control arms and CV axles, actually moving the wheel away from the frame. Wider = better. Wider = more wheel travel, we call it "cheater travel" Long travel suspensions do not always raise the vehicle, but they often have adjustable ride heights (threaded body coil over shocks) so you can pick whatever height you need to clear your tires. These are the big $$$$ lifts that will actually improve the ride of your vehicle and make it more capable off road.

Larger tires = more traction contact patch, More travel = keeps tires on the ground, this is what I am after when I build a truck. Wider is better, more travel and a lower COG will keep you moving forward off road.

They all have their place, most street queens use a bracket type lift and combo of body lift to stuff huge tires
Jeeps, Rangers, yotas and Broncos will usually have some sort of long travel and increased width lift on them if they are serious about off road, no body lift.

My Bronco II uses a 1/2" body drop (still stuffed a 5.0L V8 drivetrain in there), I run fiberglass front fenders so I can keep a low COG and still fit 35-37" tires. I then built a custom 5" lifted 4x4 TTB suspension, 9" wider then a stock truck, with 14" of wheel travel = bronco II go off road.

Sweet, thanks for the info dude. That makes perfect sense.

Edit: Ya never are done learning are ya?

 

Yeah almost everything is lifted. Even cars. It doesnt look like it but that lift is 4" with 37" tires.

 

[/IMG]

 

This thing is parked next to the interstate for all to see.

 

is that in Idaho Springs?

We have a lifted el camino around here on 40's same dude owns a bright red Lambo kit car (fiero) they look like red neck heaven parked next to each other

makes me want to drive over the lambo with the camino

 

Close, George town.

 

Dang that's what I meant I know right where that car is
I used to live in Georgetown back in 93 I worked at Loveland
That Camaro has been there for years!!

 

hell no
I learn alot from my stepsons and I taught them all I know, my customers always have these great ideas about their projects also... Two heads are way better then one, especially in the shop!
youtube has revolutionized the way we share ideas and info...so many shortcuts and cool tools to discover
The minute you think you have it all figured out is the same moment you become a close minded fool
best tool in the shop is your ears