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Reseal Intake Plenum

21K views 20 replies 5 participants last post by  old man dave  
#1 ·
I have located a small leak on the passenger side plenum. I was going to order some new stock replacement plenums along with the anti crush sleeves. I have e-fuel so my fuel bowl and pump have been removed. It doesn't appear that the turbo will need removed in order to remove the passenger side. I seem to recall reading that my 97 has the 10 bolt plenums. I also recall hearing about one bolt that is difficult to remove.
Any tips or tricks here? Turbo on or off? What about that one problem bolt? Thanks!
 
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#2 ·
If you just do the passenger side you should not need to remove the turbo. I also had to do this a few years ago. Its pretty straight forward, just takes time.

Make sure to use the mortorcraft gray rtv. Its good stuff.

How did you discover the leak? Are you sure the drivers side isn't also leaking?
 
#3 ·
I pressurized the Intake tract with compressed air. I could hear air hissing out, sprayed soapy water and it started hissing and making bubbles.
 
#6 ·
Says it won't fit with stock turbo. I have a stock turbo and E99 spider. My stock plenums lasted 20 years. I'd like to go back with stock if they are available.
 
#8 ·
Just seems like parts like that get tweaked when removing them, then they leak. When I remove old parts, I like to go with new stuff it oem is available.
 
#10 ·
I bought that eBay plenum. Can I buy that gray silicone at Ford, or can I use "The Right Stuff?"
 
#12 ·
I got mine off Amazon its a small tube but it goes a long ways.

Sent from my Super awesome outdated Samsung that doesn't burst into flames using Tapatalk
 
#13 ·
Yes you can buy the rtv at ford or order it. Either way make sure to use the mortorcraft stuff. Its awsome. You will need a caulk gun to apply it.
 
#15 ·
The intake sealant is Motorcraft TA-30, comes in a stubby caulking tube. Its the stuff to use to seal against high boost pressures. Cost me $25 net at the dealer a month ago. Maybe use a 1/8" bead since if you use too much, a lot oozes out into the interior of the plenum where you can't see it.

When removing the plenum, one of the bolts holding the intake plenum can't be unscrewed fully. Just loosen it up until it hits the front cover after taking out the rest of the bolts The bolt hole for the last bolt is slotted for removal/install. Loosen the plenum and then wiggle it out from under the last bolt.

Motorcraft TA-31 is the stuff for the rest of the engine.

I use TA-30 for everything. LOL

Have pulled the pan sealed with it several times without much problem or deforming the pan. The trick is to use a stiff putty knife about 1-1/4" wide and hit it with a hammer to cut along the sealant seam. Sharpen the edge first. Putty knife works great. A little hard to get started but once you get the putty knife cutting, its easy. Use a thin blade screwdriver for the curved part. Pound it in in successive spots, cutting the sealant. Then pop the pan loose.
 
#17 ·
Are you referring to the oil pan? Just to clarify....if the one bolt cannot be removed and the plenum slid out, then how do you reinstall it without smearing the caulk bead?
 
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#19 ·
Yes on the pan.

The bolt hits the front cover since its too long to be removed. There is enough clearance to lay a bead of sealant and still get the intake plenum in there. Lay a continuous 1/16” or so bead and also encircling each bolt hole. Tilt the intake plenum and put it under the bolthead while holding the plenum up as much as possible. Then lay the intake plenum on the sealant bead.

Its easy using the sheet metal intake plenums. I did it using thicker billet aluminum intake plenums without any problems.