I think the correct name of that seal you need is a scotseal or scottseal if that helps.

More ideas:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/getitems.php3?Axle%20Seal%20Replacement

STERLING 10.25 SEAL PART NUMBER CHANGE - FSB Forums

http://www.skfprograms.com/poleposition/pdf/457721.pdf

 

Yeah. I found out that much but there is some lack of certainity on what the correct part # is. I found # 34384 and # 34386. And i still dont know where to get one

 

When you get this figured out please take some pictures

 

Will do. I knew these axles had some issues with sealing but out of the 10 or so I have had i have never had an issue till this 97

 

SKF-Scotseal catalog shows the number ending in 84 to be correct.

 

Any idea on where to get em? I got a NAPA near buy but they will not be open till tomorrow.

O I put some picks in your Sway bar sticky

 

97 F250 Rear Wheel Seals Part Number - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

Napa online catalog shows that to be a good number with it in stock local to me.

 

I wonder what the difference is between the 34384 and the 34387

 

The 34387 looked like a conventional seal to me.

 

Brad, call S&L (908) 475-2168 they got me the correct National seal for my dana 80 when advanced/napa couldn't.

 

I got both seals coming from NAPA.

 

The correct Scott seal or what ever you call it is #34387

 

Anyway i pull my new seal(national#370047A) out of the box and it is just a 1 piece design(not going to work)

Ummmmmm.............

You want the 370047A seal. It's a better seal.

Clean the spindle very good. Put a smear of the Right Stuff on the spindle where the outer edge of seal would go.

370047A seal

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

Ok. Some pics of the SCOTSEAL As Chicago Rawhide calls them.
It is basicly a 2 piece seal, similar to a roller bearing.

The seal is "pressed" into the hub just like your normal seal, BUT the inner part of the seal that normally rides on the spindle does not spin on the spindle. It just slides on making a tight seal. Then the outer part that is pressed into the hub spins around the part that is sealed to the spindle.

Since my spindle was so pitted and i didnt want to have any further leaks i put a thin layer of RTV on the spindles surface where the seal lays and i also did the same thing on the outside of the seal where it is pressed into the hub.

Enough w the babling ,here are the pics

The bare backing plate

My pitted spindle

the new SCOTSEAL
(bearing side)

Backing plate side

Seal pressed into hub w a little RTV to seal it to the hub

Little bit of RTV on the spindle

I slid the hub onto the spindle by hand and when seal hit the spindle i stopped. I put the outer wheel bearing in, the nut and tightened by hand. This very evenly and gently pushed the tight fitting seal on to the spindle. I spun it a couple of time, torqued(60ft lbs), spun a couple more times checked torque, backed of the recommended amount(8 clicks). spun it some more. backed it off, torqued it again(60ft lbs) then backed off the 8 clicks. Then put the axle in, cleaned and relocktighted the bolts, put then in by hand then torqued to (50ft lbs)

I then assembled the brakes and put the drums back on, tires and checked my axle lube level. It was a lil low but i am not worried, i have new 08 alum diff cover coming tomorrow. So i just went out in my driveway and got sideways on the hill letting the axle lube run to the right side(the seal i just changed) and sat there for a good 30 sec. and let the hub fill with oil. I went for a test drive of about 20 miles.

Came home, jacked the truck back up, pulled the tire and drum, and it is all dry.

hope this is able to help someone else out, in a similar situation

 

So did you use the Scottseal?

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

Yes. I think i would have rather use the same type seal that was on there that i took off, but i couldnt find one. I hope this works

 

Just some FYI:

The 370047A seal crosses over to the 34387 seal.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

The national 370047a seal i got was a one pice seal, and was not going to seal on my axle tube

 

So I am not clear on what is the right seal to get now???

 

No kidding huh? :doh:

I have a Ford part number for the seal F4TZ 1177 B and it looks very much like the National 370047A.

I know that the Yukon Mighty Seal is part number YMS370047A which leads me to think it is a repackaged National.

Yet several 10.25 axles I have pulled apart have all had the SKF 34387 style seal in them.

I think if your spindle is not worn the National seal is a better replacement. But if the spindle is damaged like the OP's then the SKF would be the way to go. Seems like a toss up either way and they are both close in price.

 

The ford seal lists for about $140 And apperently that is what my truck had originally and that is what failed.

It is a wear sleeve that goes on the spindle and the the seal is pressed into the hub, but first a "oil slinger" goes against the bearing to keep the oil away from the seal.

I will try and get some pics of the bad seal tomorrow. the bad thing about the ford seal, besides the price is that you need a special tool to drive the wear sleave on to the spindle

 

Hey man I have been reading the whole thread and I cant seem to find the solution to this? I have recently been deep into my hub. When i bought my truck the rear end was trashed, so i bought a "new to me" rear end and swapped them, ran the truck for 5000 miles and boom drivers side was making some wicked noises. Pull it off and the outer bearing is just roasted. Put it back together and that seal starts to leak. Not a lot but enough to notice.

 

Brad, your pics aren't there anymore, could you get them back up? thanks.

 

Ok. Some pics of the SCOTSEAL As Chicago Rawhide calls them.
It is basicly a 2 piece seal, similar to a roller bearing.

The seal is "pressed" into the hub just like your normal seal, BUT the inner part of the seal that normally rides on the spindle does not spin on the spindle. It just slides on making a tight seal. Then the outer part that is pressed into the hub spins around the part that is sealed to the spindle.

Since my spindle was so pitted and i didnt want to have any further leaks i put a thin layer of RTV on the spindles surface where the seal lays and i also did the same thing on the outside of the seal where it is pressed into the hub.

Enough w the babling ,here are the pics

The bare backing plate

My pitted spindle

the new SCOTSEAL
(bearing side)

Backing plate side

Seal pressed into hub w a little RTV to seal it to the hub

Little bit of RTV on the spindle

I slid the hub onto the spindle by hand and when seal hit the spindle i stopped. I put the outer wheel bearing in, the nut and tightened by hand. This very evenly and gently pushed the tight fitting seal on to the spindle. I spun it a couple of time, torqued(60ft lbs), spun a couple more times checked torque, backed of the recommended amount(8 clicks). spun it some more. backed it off, torqued it again(60ft lbs) then backed off the 8 clicks. Then put the axle in, cleaned and relocktighted the bolts, put then in by hand then torqued to (50ft lbs)



I then assembled the brakes and put the drums back on, tires and checked my axle lube level. It was a lil low but i am not worried, i have new 08 alum diff cover coming tomorrow. So i just went out in my driveway and got sideways on the hill letting the axle lube run to the right side(the seal i just changed) and sat there for a good 30 sec. and let the hub fill with oil. I went for a test drive of about 20 miles.

Came home, jacked the truck back up, pulled the tire and drum, and it is all dry.

hope this is able to help someone else out, in a similar situation

 

thanks, I hadn't seen a spindle that pitted before

 

Brad wanted this added to this thread as he cannot post in this section. Just a note of caution to anyone reading this thread.

The axle seal I used has failed. I am going to try the 34384 the "87#" is the one that failed.