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Question about the accelerator pedal

13K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  old man dave  
#1 ·
Hey guys got a question for you guys. I currently have a problem with my truck cutting back to idle and i think i have traced it back to the foot pedal ivs. So i need a replacement. I know a guy with a basically brand new 7.3 pedal out of a 2001 (possibly 2002) but it only has 1 plug, 5 wires but 1 plug. What would be the chances i could wire this into my 97 7.3? He only wants $20 for it thats why im considering, but i also dont want to cut my harness without some checking first.
 
#2 ·
Have you tried using some electrical contact cleaner on the IVS and cycling the switch while using the cleaner? I would do this with the IVS disconnected and ignition off. I haven't seen where what you are suggesting has been done. Cheers!
 
#3 ·
I think i remeber a select few people swapping the sd pedal assembly into a obs.
Actually @glovemeister did it.

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#5 ·
Yes you can swap in a superduty pedal in the OBS. I did it 3-4 years ago, and haven't seen it mentioned anywhere else. I will try to find the guide I made. But the long and short of it is, buy the new pedal. Cut the factory connector off (leave enough to pigtail), install a SD connector.

You will need to slightly modify the SD pedal bracket (cut it down a small bit, maybe change holes).

100% works, cruise works, and is much smoother, no annoying clicking noise and not as clunky as the OBS style.
 
#11 ·
Huh, that must be from a later truck, maybe an '03 or so. I'm sitting here with an OBS pedal, and one from an SD, a 1999 truck I think. OBS part # is F5TA-9F836-AE. SD is F81A-9F836-AE. Both pedals, the part you step on is flat, not curved like yours.

SD pedal has two separate connectors like the OBS. The position sensor connector is the same, but the idle switch connector is different. So in this case, the connector swap would be real simple.

Looking at yours, I reckon they combined the wiring for the two components into one connector. So your challenge is to figure out which terminals on that connector correspond to which on the separate connectors on the OBS. If you can get a wiring diagram from the year of whatever that donor truck was, that should clue you in.

BTW, I saw another copy of your pedal (based on part #) on eBay, the foot part missing, $350.
 
#12 ·
Hauled this pedal out of a 2001 7.3l F450 work truck. I even took a pic of the vin so i could try to track down a wiring diagram. Think i found it. Figured out which wires are the mircoswitch (i think lol) just really unsure if the how i can figure out what the oher 3 wires are for.

You think the pedal is a good deal, guy got 6 7.3l sd trucks down there (pedals missing out of 5 of em and the other had a completely different side mount style pedal in a cube truck) all of em got intake spiders and plenums, got a set bargined for for $20 canadian and if i wanted could clear out the entire bunch for $100 lol

Only think he doesnt have is OBS trucks. Got sd 7.3, 6.0, 6.4 and 6.7 or 2
 
#14 ·
Just an fyi to everybody. They switched over to that style pedal around mid 01.
 
#15 ·
So does anyone know the wiring configuration for the obs or sd pedal accelerator pedal position wiring? The 3 wire sensor which you can get from dorman. If i knew what those wires did it would make it easier to try to wire this pedal in. Truck isnt here at my house its 2 hrs away at my fathers place. Heading out in a few days to go look at getting this pedal fitted to the truck.
 
#16 ·
Well I'd have to scan several EVTM pages to depict it; there's no depiction of just the connector faces. So it's easier just to transcribe. In a nutshell:

Idle switch:
Brown wire is fused power
Red/orange wire goes to PCM pin 5
(I'll bet it doesn't matter which way, however, since it's a simple single-throw switch)

Position sensor:
Brown/white wire is PCM pin 90, reference output voltage
Gray/white wire is PCM pin 89, pedal position sensor
Gray/red wire is PCM pin 91, sensor signal return

So the idle switch goes to the bottom two terminals on your diagram. For the sensor, this is a bit of a guess, but it looks like brown/white and gray/white are match to your diagram (even the PCM pin #s match), and gray/red would correspond to yellow/white on your diagram.
 
#17 ·
Have you actually pressed and released the pedal and been able to hear the IVS switch clicking? If its not clicking then the IVS switch may be out of adjustment. Need to bend the pedal linkage tab that strikes the switch button until you hear it click when pressing and again when the pedal is released. Repleat several times per adjustment. Most of the time IVS problems are just adjustment related. I’ve had three new ones bad out of the box with the IVS out of adjustment.

If you need a replacement IVS switch. I have a spare I can sell you. Factory OEM supplier made so just need to R&R the switch and you are good to go. Check your PMs.
 
#18 ·
Just curious.
You have some old stock?
Or a current supplier?

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#19 ·
So finally made it out home for a day or 2. Had the computer hooked up to the truck and in 2hrs of driving around and playing with the pedal, not once did the truck cut back to idle....... its annoying that it wont happen while i can actually monitor anything. I did find a loose connector pin in the alternator and had a new alternator so changed it out before i did any testing. So maybe the problem was a voltage problem? Charge voltage spiking/dropping off and was screwing with the pcm? I dunno, tomorrow il try again and see and update. Until then i think i have found another problem and im gonna start another thread about it.
 
#21 ·
A few years ago, poster Desert Rancher researched the part number on the IVS and found a wholesale supplier of the OEM Ford spec switch complete with mounting bracket. Even is stamped “Ford”. He did this since Ford did not service the IVS and the throttle pedal assembly was $400+. Pretty steep.

I bought some spares for myself since I had a IVS go bad and had bought an assembly. Actually had to go through three new ones since the IVS was out of adjustment on three and the fourth one was good. The parts guy’s boss was beginning to wonder if I knew what I was talking about since returning three $400 items under the smog system parts warranty was getting old. Fortunately, I had been ordering non-stock application parts for years, he assured the boss that I wasn’t screwed up.

Tuned out it was a Cutler-Hammer switch assembly but no longer serviced by C-H for Ford or anyone else. I found a supplier who had a batch of switches. They sold out and was able to get a second batch of about a hundred switches. By then, the word was out on the interweb Ford sites and they rapidly sold out. I have since periodically checked google and that was the last ever sold. Several wholesale houses still list them but they don’t deliver product.

About twenty bucks shipped to my house was a lot cheaper than the $375 net the dealer was sticking me for a throttle pedal assembly that needed adjustment out of the box.

The TPS is serviced by several companies so its easy to get, just don’t buy Dorman. I checked out several different brands. There is a different part number for OBS and SD TPS sensors. However, the Dormans are the same regardless of the part number on the box. Also, the resistance values are off enough from stock Ford ones to where it could affect off-idle throttle performance. The other brands I checked were OK.
 
#22 ·
Hmm, this site wouldn't let me link to another site. However, just fill in the blanks and google away.

f o r d die sel power for ums.


Technical Section. 7.3 Powerstroke Technical discussion.
'
"Blueprinting the Throttle Pedal Assembly" in the stickies. This write-up also references some other write-ups on the pedal assembly.

When the original owners had this site, you could reference other Ford sites. Too bad, there's a lot of info on the other sites.
 
#23 ·