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Problem with Auto locking hubs

20K views 28 replies 10 participants last post by  Bobs 7.3  
#1 ·
My auto locking hubs are locking in but then coming unlocked after the torque is taken off. I've checked for vacuum leaks everywhere it came up good and the phv solenoid seems to be working. One thing that I found that was weird is when I go to test the hub with vacuum tester it's really hard to pump up to 10 so does it make sense that there sticky and need to be tAken apart and cleaned?
 
#2 ·
those hubs are unrelyable ive had many problems with mine as i use 4x4 alot seal was bad on the bearing casuing a bad vacuum replaced that found plastic peices inside broken off before replaced them once with ford autos had more problems kept them serviced and greased nothing but a headache so ive replaced them with warn hubs only down side is you have to get out and lock em but i know they are locked when i lock them
 
#5 ·
those hubs are unrelyable ive had many problems with mine as i use 4x4 alot seal was bad on the bearing casuing a bad vacuum replaced that found plastic peices inside broken off before replaced them once with ford autos had more problems kept them serviced and greased nothing but a headache so ive replaced them with warn hubs only down side is you have to get out and lock em but i know they are locked when i lock them
I put warn premiums on 4 years ago with a lifetime warranty for $260 bucks and the best thing I ever did. All Stockers from ford are junk.
 
#3 ·
Yes I know that's a route to go but I would like to keep them working. Does anyone know where I can get a write up on how to service the hubs on a 08 I see there different then the older models?
 
#8 ·
If i wanted warn hubs I wouldn't have made the post I have caps that go over them for my rims and there gonna stay on or it looks like crap.
I was just telling ya what I did to cure the junk ford hubs after 3 years of trying to clean then lube then swap them changed out all the seals 3 times no change then we pulled my fathers 2 brand new ones he had bought ($625 dollars) and tried them n they worked great so I gave them back to him n laughed at the fact he paid that much for hubs and i put on the warns for less then what it costs for one new ford hub and been problem free. I perfer the look of the lockouts as its not 2wd. Just buy new ford ones if you love the center caps so much and call it done but be prepared to buy them every 4 to 5 years weither you clean and grease them or not as there just junk. Was just trying to save you money now and in the long run. good luck.
 
#7 ·
pull em off clean em up as best as you can with brake clean and re grease them check your seal on them make sure its ok and the seal on the back of the wheel bearing probably a good idea to service that seal and put some silacone based grease on it and check your vacuum lines also when you have them off check that all the pieces are there the plasitic parts are brittle and break if thats broke you need to get some new hubs they dont sell service kits for them not a bad idea to spray some oil around the lock and the housing on the outside from time to time to keep it moving free and make sure you do operate them manually regularly just t keep them from seizing up hope that helps
 
#9 ·
:whs: or just keep a allen key handy for when you wanna use your 4x4 thats what i do i just take the centre cap off and lock em up from
 
#12 ·
cleaning them is straight forward since you can't dissemble them much

I am like Term the hubs are fine on mine a 92 k and the only fails I have had is one knuckle seal and The esof solenoid


I love when folks brag about removing the "OEM junk hubs and putting warn hubs on"



OEM is warn LOL
 
#13 ·
cleaning them is straight forward since you can't dissemble them much

I am like Term the hubs are fine on mine a 92 k and the only fails I have had is one knuckle seal and The esof solenoid


I love when folks brag about removing the "OEM junk hubs and putting warn hubs on"



OEM is warn LOL
OEMs arnt warn on my 02. The warn premiums (aftermarket) can be fully dissasembled,cleaned with brake cleaner and fully lubed instead of the factory hubs you guys have that you cant get to 80 percent of the hub to clean and grease it properly and thats why they stick and go bad if not used once a month.
 
#16 ·
If they were warn then I have to say they did a good job at making the factories junk so people toss them within 5 years and buy there aftermarket premiums with a lifetime warranty. Way to go warn thats the way to do buisness and bring yourself in more money. Couldnt be happier with the premiums. two thumbs up....
 
#17 ·
Found this info on another forum, it explains the reason the vacuum level changes:

Principles of Operation — Electronic Shift-on-the-Fly (ESOF) System

The electronic shift-on-the-fly (ESOF) system is an electronic shift system that allows the operator to choose between 2 different 4WD modes as well as two wheel drive (2WD). The operator can switch between 2WD and 4X4 High mode at speeds up to 88 km/h (55 mph). To engage or disengage 4X4 Low, the 4X4 control module requires that the vehicle speed be less than 5 km/h (3 mph), the brake pedal pressed and the transmission in NEUTRAL (or clutch pedal applied on manual transmission vehicles). This system contains pulse vacuum hublocks (PVH). The selector on the hublock, when turned fully counterclockwise to the AUTO position, engages/disengages the hub depending on the driver-selected 4WD mode of operation. The hublocks also contain a manual override. When the selector is rotated fully clockwise to the LOCK position, the 4WD vacuum and electronic system used for coupling the front axle to the wheels is bypassed.

The transfer case is equipped with a dual-cone synchronous clutch. This clutch is used to synchronize the front driveline to the rear. All other internals operate in the same manner as the manual shift system. When the mode select switch (MSS) on the instrument panel is turned, the 4X4 control module powers the transfer case shift motor, which activates a shift fork and engages the clutch. When the shift motor reaches the desired position, as determined by the encoder position inputs to the 4X4 control module, power to the shift motor is removed. When the transfer case front and rear output shafts are synchronized, the lockup collar mechanically engages the mainshaft hub to the drive sprocket. At this point, the front axle PVH are engaged. Instrument cluster (IC) "4X4 High" and "4X4 Low" indicator operation is controlled via the cluster which interprets outputs from the 4X4 control module.

Electronic Shift Transfer Case

The New Venture Gear NV 273 electronic shift transfer case is a 3-piece aluminum design. The unit transfers engine power from the transmission to the front and rear axles. Under normal driving conditions the unit is in 2WD, but when desired, the operator may shift into 4X4 High or 4X4 Low. The transfer case is shifted electronically. The unit is lubricated by a positive displacement fluid pump that channels fluid flow through holes in the mainshaft.

The encoder assembly used for mode indication is of a Hall effect type. The system uses a total of 4 independent transistors for mode recognition. Each transistor is associated with a specific range of motor movement. When the circuit to each transistor is closed, a ground path to any of the -A-, B-, C- or D- encoder pins is accomplished. When the circuit to each transistor is open, the connection to any of the -A-, B-, C- or D- encoder pins is pulled to voltage. Mode indication is "decoded" by the 4X4 control module based on the varying combinations of signals coming from the transistors.

Pulse Vacuum Hublocks

The electronic shift-on-the-fly (ESOF) system has a feature which allows the driver to override the vacuum-operated hublocks. When the front hublock dials are manually turned to the LOCK position, the hublocks are locked through the dial at all times, regardless of the position of the instrument panel mode select switch (MSS).

When the front hublock dials are manually turned to the AUTO position, the hublocks use an internal spring-locking mechanism that is vacuum-operated by the ESOF system, and are locked with the MSS in the 4X4 High or 4X4 Low position and unlocked with the MSS in 2WD position. Refer to Hublock in this section for additional AUTO hublock system operation.

Hublock Operation

With the hublocks in the AUTO position, the 4WD ESOF system uses timed vacuum sequences to lock and unlock the wheel ends when switching the instrument panel MSS between 2WD and 4WD modes. A high vacuum level (222 mm [8.75 in] Hg and greater) is applied to the hublocks to lock the internal spring mechanism that engages (locks) the hublocks for 4WD mode, and a lower vacuum level (114 to 184 mm [5.9 to 7.1 in] Hg) is applied to unlock the spring mechanism that disengages (unlocks) the hublocks for 2WD mode. The vacuum signals are supplied to the hublocks by system components, including the 4X4 control module, wiring harness, solenoid, vacuum harness and vacuum seals. As a first step in service, eliminate obvious items such as loose wiring connections, loose vacuum connections or damaged vacuum lines.

Hublock Engagement/Disengagement Time

With the hublock dials in the AUTO position, switching the instrument panel MSS to 4X4 High or 4X4 Low results in the high vacuum level being applied to the hublocks, which lasts for at least 51 seconds (including a venting cycle). The hublocks should engage during this time through the spring mechanism. Switching the MSS to 2WD less than 51 seconds after the MSS has been switched to 4X4 High or 4X4 Low will not interrupt the high vacuum level; instead, the lower vacuum level will be applied after the high vacuum level cycle is completed.

With the hublock dials in the AUTO position, switching the MSS to 2WD results in the lower vacuum level being applied to the hublocks, which lasts for about 15 seconds. However, the actual time required for the hublocks to disengage by spring force can vary considerably due to the effects of driveline wind up. Road bumps, vehicle speed, acceleration cycles or momentary reversal of direction can assist this process. Switching the MSS to 4X4 High or 4X4 Low always overrides the lower vacuum level cycle and results in an immediate high-vacuum level and in locking of the hublocks.

Manual Override

The AUTO hublocks have a manual override selector dial, which, when turned to the LOCK position, will keep the hublocks locked (through the dial) at all times, regardless of the position of the instrument panel MSS. (Always set both hublock dials to the same position.) If the hublock dials are manually turned from the AUTO to the LOCK position, and the high vacuum level is applied to the hublocks (by switching the MSS from 2WD to 4X4 High or 4X4 Low), the hublocks will be locked through the dial as well as through the internal spring mechanism. In this case, turning the hublock dials back to the AUTO position will leave the hublocks in (spring) locked mode until the lower vacuum level is applied to the hublocks (by switching the MSS from 4X4 High or 4X4 Low to the 2WD). (This is not an issue if the hublock dials have been in the AUTO position and the MSS has been switched from 4X4 High or 4X4 Low to 2WD at least once.) Alternatively, the hublock mechanism can be reset to free mode at any time by turning the hublock dial from AUTO to LOCK to AUTO at least 2 times.
 
#26 ·
Instrument cluster (IC) "4X4 High" and "4X4 Low" indicator operation is controlled via the cluster which interprets outputs from the 4X4 control module.
does this mean that when that light is on the transfer case is definitely locked in 4x4? high/low accordingly
 
#27 ·
My stock hubs at 330,000 miles were still working fine but starting to get tough to manually turn and I sold them to a farmer when I put new OEM ford units on last month along with a new control solenoid which HAD gone bad in, again, 330,000 miles.... Oh yeah total junk ROFLMAO