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Possible 6.0 future owner

1.1K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  Snake  
#1 ·
Well I've been considering lately sellin my lifted 5spd 3/4 ton cummins and getting a ford, simply because fords look nicer inside and out, have a way better drivetrain, and the 6.0's with a sct tune sound pretty sick and can up and move pretty good. However, I'm having second thoughts with all the 6.0 problems and horror stories I've read,seen, and heard about. If I purchased a 6.0 it would be a auto, 3/4 ton 4x4 that was studded and deleted. I was wondering how reliable a 6.0 would be with a sct tune and stud and delete? Because the motor is the only thing holding me back from getting one? Also what fuel mileage could I expect with 33-35 inch tires? Also, I have a guy wanting to trade me for my truck, he has a 05 with receipts proving his studs, delete, new injectors, glowplugs, and rebuilt trans by aamco, however the truck has 242,000 miles? How much longer would it last?
 
#2 ·
First off, welcome to PSN!

The 6.0 engine itself is very reliable, I know of several 350k mile plus trucks running around my area. If its been studded and deleted you should be set for a good amount of mileage on that truck. I would add a coolant filter if it doesnt have one, also one thing to keep in mind is the 6.0 needs it regular maintenance! Fuel filters every 15k tops, oil every 5,000k and only use motorcraft filters.

I love my 6.0, I have run sct tunes without studs for 30k miles no problem. But will be studding it soon just for future mods.

I would think with the miles you should get a good price on that truck. depending on year, cab configuration, and mileage on your cummins ya know. Thats why I ended up with the 6.0 over another 7.3, I could buy a 4 year newer truck with less miles for less money!

imo the 6.0 is a reliable beast once studded, deleted, and maintained!
 
#3 ·
I have 190k on my 2004 F-350 CC DRW 4x4. Still has 5 of the original injectors, original stock transmission, original heads and studs, original gaskets, actual almost original everything, other than I blew apart the intercooler. It has a tuned FICM, egr delete and exhaust delete of cat and muffler. It runs great and has been worked. Over 50% of those miles have been either pulling a triple axle deck over trailer tipping the scales at about 20k, a 38' race trailer at about 19k or pushing snow. Other than basic maintance, I have had very few problems that weren't wear items like alternators, batteries, ball joints, brakes, oil changes. I wouldn't think twice about buying another one. If you get one, make sure you do the regular maintance of oils and filters or you WILL be having a boat load of repairs.
 
#4 ·
Ducati ^^

Perfect example of what the 6.0 needs, it needs worked! Seems like the most reliable 6.0s are the ones that used to do what it was built for....work!

6.0 doesnt like to sit or be used for lots of short trips. It needs to get up to temp, stay there and be used! I personally would be more inclined to buy a truck like ducati's...higher miles and has been used as it was purposed then a low mileage truck thats driven 5 miles a day to and from work., but thats JMO!
 
#5 ·
Something that isn't mentioned, but I think would be a good idea, is a fuel pressure gauge. I've heard that some of the injector failures in these trucks are caused by drops in fuel pressure from the lift pump. I would put in an air dog lift pump and a fuel pressure gauge just for peace of mind. Maybe some of the others who actually own these trucks though could pitch in on this subject.
 
#6 ·
Lift pump in a 6.0 huh? :poke:

OP, to answer your question, I'm one of the masses that hasn't been real happy with the 6.0. Headgaskets blew twice (once after being studded), oil cooler has clogged twice, FICM has been replaced twice, and I've generally spent an arm and a leg to keep this thing on the road.

That being said, the motor CAN be made reliable IF the following things are done CORRECTLY:
1. Flush coolant system, install coolant filter, drive it for while, and replace the oil cooler (if you find out it's clogged)
2. Headstuds (must make sure the heads are flat and free of cracks and the block surface is properly prepared)
3. FICM -- ensure it's putting out 47v or more
4. Delete your EGR valve and EGR cooler if you can get away with it

Keeping an eye on everything that's going on is critical (meaning you need gauges), as is maintenance. For example, a bad alternator will kill your batteries, which will then take out your FICM, and then you start losing injectors. Having a volt gauge to keep track of this (as well as your FICM volts) will help you keep small problems from becoming big problems.
 
#7 ·
Fuel psi is very important, invest in either analog gauges or an edge insight monitor to keep an eye on oil, water temps, fuel psi..(adapter needed for fuel psi also.) I started with analogs, now habe an insight cts....absolutly love it!
 
#8 ·
I have a 05' 6.0l crew cab shortbed king ranch and love it. It only has 109,xxx on it but I drive it from colorado to utah wyoming montana, a lot of long drives every two weeks for work and It's very dependable. First think I did was egr/oil delete edge programmer and mbrp exhaust and i should be good for another 300,000 miles easy. Just keep up on maintance oil changes fuel filter, all that good stuff and drive it like you stole it and you'll be fine.