I've got another conundrum for u so I don't know if it pertains to the problem I was having earlier but the truck stalled today going down the highway at 69-70 mph and I had cruise control engaged I drove it home the rest of the way cause it started at 50-60mph didn't stall I am now in Montana and the weather is cold but I did wait like 15mins to wait for the truck temp gauge to read normal here is a vid of what happened

I changed the valve cover wiring harnesses I had to rewire 2 pig tails for glow plug to the harness
I changed glowplugs
I'm running 10w30 amsoil with filter

Forgot to mention that this was a california truck but now it's In Montana but from factory it's still California

 

I see your check engine light is on, have you scanned for codes?

 

As mentioned above, retrieve the code(s) that's been set, and maybe get another factory CPS. If the CPS doesn't do the trick, you'll have a spare for the glovebox. Cheers!

 

would the sensor not let the truck start again after stalling if so its not the cps just for that reason alone cause i was able to turn over the engine and drive it the rest of the way home and would the sensor go out and not work again or would it go out slowly?

 

Yeah the code is a glow plug code it's for the passenger side but I've already as you know replaced the glow plugs and the glow plug wiring harness

 

I've got another conundrum for u so I don't know if it pertains to the problem I was having earlier but the truck stalled today going down the highway at 69-70 mph and I had cruise control engaged I drove it home the rest of the way cause it started at 50-60mph didn't stall I am now in Montana and the weather is cold but I did wait like 15mins to wait for the truck temp gauge to read normal here is a vid of what happened

I changed the valve cover wiring harnesses I had to rewire 2 pig tails for glow plug to the harness
I changed glowplugs
I'm running 10w30 amsoil with filter

Forgot to mention that I replaced the glow plug relay twice

 

The CPS can cause the truck to stall and then start up again (that's typically the way they fail in my experience). Cheers!

 

thanks for the help it was the cam sensor unfortuately i wasnt able to get the oem one but i make sure not to get the 9 dollar crappy one the one i got was from Delphi and it is grey

 

Glad you got it going! Thanks for the follow up too. Cheers!

 

Always like success.

I'd go onto RiffRaft diesels site and order up the Motorcraft one now just to have on hand

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I definately will i dont think i will need to use it tommorow lol but i will be nice to have in the truck. i will order up one when i get paid next cheers guys

 

So this morning was negative 5°And I cycle the key six times and the check engine light came on again I'm wondering if it's just because it's ungodly cold as to why the check engine light keeps coming on

 

Since your truck is a California model, I'd bet it's one of the glowplug codes, but you'll need to read the codes to find out. There's no need to cycle the plugs on these as the plugs will heat for 1.5 - 2 minutes (the WTS light does not show when the plugs are actually heating it's just a reminder to wait). Here's the Introduction and Pinpoint Tests for the GP System. There was also a TSB for certain trucks that would get a "ghost code" for one of the banks, so I'll include that just for more info (not that you actually have that problem). Cheers!

 

The same code that keeps popping up is a p1395 code it's the passenger side glow plugs but I know for a fact that they're good and the I also replaced the harness so I know there's nothing wrong with the passenger side glow plugs if you think it's a ghost code then it's probably a ghost code

 

when i started it up after sitting for a while at work while it was -5 outside it rough idled but i stopped rough idling after i got it on the freeway doing about 65-70.mph do u know if there is a relay for this year truck i had mechanic tell me there was a relay that i had to reset but when i look it up for a location it says i don't have one any light shed on this subject would be appreciated

 

There are no relays that you can "reset". The rough idling could be due to cylinders that have not warmed up (glowplugs possibly not working as they should) or an Injector Driver Module (IDM) issue (should get a CEL for that). The main relays that you would be concerned about would be the PCM Power Relay, The IDM Power Relay, and GlowPlug Relay. Here's some additional information on the GP Monitoring:

Glow Plug Monitor

Glow Plug Control, Comprehensive Component Monitors, and Wait to Start Indicator—California

The California glow plug system is composed of a glow plug relay, glow plug shunt strips, shunt strip monitor circuits, glow plugs, glow plug light, and the associated wiring harness. The glow plug on-time is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and is a function of oil temperature, barometric pressure and battery voltage. The PCM enables the Glow Plug Relay, which drives the shunt sense strips, which in turn drive the individual glow plugs. Glow plug on-time normally varies between 1 and 120 seconds. The power to the glow plugs is provided through the Glow Plug Relay directly from the vehicle battery. The PCM monitors through two shunt monitoring circuits, one per bank, and detects glow plug functionality.

Glow Plug Relay Control Circuit Check:
DTCs P0380 – Glow Plug Relay Circuit Check
Monitor execution: Continuous (Background 25ms – 50ms)
Monitor Sequence: None
Sensors OK: Not Applicable
Typical Monitoring Duration: Internal to Chip.

Typical Glow Plug Module Control Circuit Check Entry Conditions:
No Entry Conditions

Typical Glow Plug Module Control Circuit Check Malfunction Thresholds:
Internal to chip checks for open circuit, short to ground, and short to power.

Glow Plug Monitor Operation:
DTCs:
P1391 – Glow Plug Bank 1 Failure
P1393 – Glow Plug Bank 2 Failure
P1395 – Absolute Voltage Drop Across Bank # 1
P1396 – Absolute Voltage Drop Across Bank # 2

Monitor execution:
P1391 – Continuous
P1393 – Continuous
P1395 – During the absolute test
P1396 – During the absolute test
Monitor Sequence: None
Sensors OK: Not Applicable
Monitoring Duration:
P1395 – Greater than 30 seconds.
P1396 – Greater than 30 seconds.

Typical Glow Plug Monitor Entry Conditions:
P1391 – Battery Voltage (IVPWR) is between 11.5 and 14 Volts and Glow Plug Duty Cycle is 100%.
P1393 – Battery Voltage (IVPWR) is between 11.5 and 14 Volts and Glow Plug Duty Cycle is 100%.
P1395 – Battery Voltage (IVPWR) is between 11.5 and 14 Volts, Glow Plug Duty Cycle is 100%, and Glow Plug on time is greater than 30.5 seconds.
P1396 – Battery Voltage (IVPWR) is between 11.5 and 14 Volts, Glow Plug Duty Cycle is 100%, and Glow Plug on time is greater than 30.5 seconds.

Typical Glow Plug Monitor Malfunction Thresholds:
P1391 – When the Bank #1 shunt signal is lower than a specified value (.66 volts) the fault is set.
P1393 – When the Bank #2 shunt signal is lower than a specified value (.66 volts) the fault is set.
P1395 – During the absolute test a fault is set if the voltage drops below a specified value (155 A/D counts) on Bank #1.
P1396 – During the absolute test a fault is set if the voltage drops below a specified value (155 A/D counts) on Bank #2.

Glow Plug Wait to Start Light Operation:
DTCs:
P0381 – Glow Plug indicator circuit malfunction
Monitor execution: Continuous (Background 25ms-50ms)
Monitor Sequence: None
Sensors OK: Not applicable
Typical Monitoring Duration: Internal to Chip

Glow Plug Light Wait to Start Light Entry Conditions:
Glow Plugs Enabled

Glow Plug Light Wait to Start Light Malfunction Thresholds:
Status internal to chip

Cheers!

 

well i checked the gpr and when i put the pos lead on the right hot connection and the neg lead to the other connection it read 15 volts when i turned the key it went down to .01 does this mean the relay is bad/ wired incorrectly and if it is, is there a video where it shows me how to wire it correctly i hate the shunt and will be getting a stancor relay to replace this one soon and would like to see pictures as to how the gpr is supposed to be wired cause i believe either i wired it wrong or the previous owner did it wrong thanks for the reply

 

That is a good relay, you need to test the glow plugs if you haven't already.

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ill check them tomorrow thru the wiring harness but i hardly see that as possible since i changed the gp's not long-ago I'd say about 2 months ago and i didnt buy the gps off amazon and i also made sure to buy the original factory equipment motorcraft ones. I bought them off of rockauto where i get most of the parts for my truck that i cannot find at napa

 

I'd also check just how long that the relay is staying on for.

I know that I have over 4 bad glow plugs and when I started my truck up this morning at a -4 it did a lot of argueing and smoked in a parking lot. But once the engine started I ran the RPM's up to 1500 and held it there for a couple of minutes. I drove for around a quarter mile and while my partner was getting some coffee I ran the RPM's back up for a few minutes until the cylinders were hot enough that it quit smoking.

I'll get the plugs replaced this spring

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I use the Western Plow 56131K2 relay on my Cali 97 (I've had zero issues with it). The White Rogers 586-902 (formerly called Stancor) is a very good relay, but doesn't work well with the shunt as far as mounting goes. You'll have to bend the shunt up for it to fit. Here's a pic of the Western Plow relay on my truck. The wiring on either relay is the same. Control wires on the small posts and big wires (or shunt) on big posts. The hose pieces are just so nothing shorts on the large terminals. I also included the wiring diagram for the relay. Cheers!

 

i notice in your pic that one of the eye holes is not attached by a bolt is that a problem or does it only need 1 bolt to hold the relay down?

 

it only needs one bolt until it needs two ;-)

 

It's been on there for years with no issues. It's actually pretty solid even with the one bolt holding it down. Cheers!

 

ok thanks i tested the gpr with the key on and it was reading 15 volts across both terminals set to dc volts and i checked the resistance of the glowplugs thru the harness and it was saying something like -400 omhs idk what im doing wrong here as its reading all of them like that im using a simple voltometer what u see it set at is what i had it set for testing resistance in the gpr it

 

If you had the DVOM probes across both large terminals and got a reading of 15 volts, the relay is bad or the PCM isn't providing the ground to energize the relay's coil. For checking the GP resistance, you can put one probe on the outermost pins of each VC gasket connection (if the VCs are installed) and the other on a good ground. Make sure your DVOM is set to the lowest setting for the required reading (so say 20 VDC for reading the voltage drop and 20 ohms for reading the GP resistance). Cheers!

 

will check Tommorrow if its not keeping ground what would i do if the pcm isnt providing the ground would i have to replace the pcm. Im guessing checking the glowplugs will rule out the gpr or the pcm?

 

Most of the time with that type of reading, the GPR is bad. Hardly ever see the PCM going bad (Cali PCMs are very hard to find). Cheers!

 

Well if i had to get a pcm do u know were i could get one. i guessing that i would have to get mine rebuilt if it was the problem and i couldnt get one brand new but from all this cold weather im also thinking its the gpr

 

So i just tested the gpr and it was giving me power on all 4 lugs 2 big ones were giving me 14-15 ish reading and the one of the small ones was giving me 13-15 range and the last small one was giving me .67 which its not supposed to do so its bad. I also tested the gp's and the passenger side tested .41 omhs of resistance for the back 2 and i cant test the front two in the passenger but im pretty sure there bad and i also tested the drivers side which i put in this January and found the resistance to not be any better i think i got bad motorcraft gps from beru i order them thru rockauto i dont know if that makes any difference but i have not had any issues with them in the past as far as a part going bad or defective on delivery. Any suggestions on gps i have been looking at diesel rx gps for my truck and wondering about them if there good or better than oem stock. as for the gpr i think i will look into the western plow but im most Likely going to go with stancor relay

 

If it were me, I would get the Western Plow relay. It mounts a little different, but it will still fit under the large decorative engine cover. The White Rogers will require you to bend up the shunt as it mounts horizontally. The shunt is not cheap either should you mess it up. Here's what I use for testing the GPR (I've posted this many many times over the years):

To check the glowplug relay (GPR), measure the voltage drop across the GPR's large terminals. While the GPR is active (up to 1.5 to 2 minutes after the key is turned to Wait-to-Start) put your meter leads on the large terminals (one lead on one large terminal and the other lead on the other large terminal). This measures how much voltage is being "lost" across the relay. A reading of 0.3V or more indicates a bad relay. Also, check the relay’s control wires (smaller wires) disconnected from the relay for battery voltage at the Red/Light Green striped wire and ground at the Purple/Orange striped wire (check both when the key is turned to Wait-to-Start).

Cheers!

 

Will check it tommorow what would checking the smaller wires disconnected from the relay do would i put the test lead on 1 and the other test lead on the other one? similar to the gpr?