for hard cold starts, i'd look into more of a FICM issue as opposed to a ICP issue. ICP problems usually show their face when hot. Glow plugs working properly? Does it smoke at all when it starts/dies? Could be really bad stiction also

 

I originally thought the FICM was the problem. I had 37 volts while running at idle. I have since had FICMrepair.com rebuild it. I did have absolutely no power before full operating temp, and since the FICM rebuild that is 75% better, but the hard cold start problem is no better.

The previous owner told me it needed new glow plugs, but I haven't tested them myself. I was going to replace them, but then this code showed up and I thought that could be the problem.

Once it does start if blows a bit of blue smoke for a second or two, but then it's gone. Once it's running for 1-3 seconds, it always stays running.

Sounds like the ipr valve is failing. I had the same code and chased it forever. New 58v ficm, new injectors, new icp, turned out that the ipr was on its last legs before the screen completely tore apart and left me stranded on the hwy. replaced the ipr, not thinking that was the cause of my code, and after that day the code has never come back.

That would be great if it was just an IPR valve. Is there anyway to test the HPOP and/or IPR to be sure they are at fault, or is it just replace the IPR and see if it fixes it?

Is there a clogged oil filter anywhere that could be causing this?

 

Sounds like the ipr valve is failing. I had the same code and chased it forever. New 58v ficm, new injectors, new icp, turned out that the ipr was on its last legs before the screen completely tore apart and left me stranded on the hwy. replaced the ipr, not thinking that was the cause of my code, and after that day the code has never come back.

 

No clogged oil filter will cause this. If the oil is bad enough to clog the filter then it'll tear the screens on the ipr valve. The best way IMO to check the ipr is to pull it out and look at the screens. It's not an easy job to do on the side if the road lol trust me. You can connect air and check for leaks in the hpop but I don't think that's the problem, I could be wrong, but usually a hpop problem will give you a no start when engine is hot.

 

But if you have some faulty glow plugs it will smoke bad, and idle rough. It shouldn't give you a pressure to low code. The glow plugs are not connected to any pressure sensors for the oil. It could be a leaky injector, and you may have one anyways, but if I remember correctly it only gives that code under hard acceleration. So I don't see it being an injector. I could be wrong on that. But ipr is injector pressure regulator valve. So to me as I learned the hard way, is directly related to when you punch it, the ipr is not letting you get enough pressure to fire injectors correctly, therefore through a that code. What's happening is the screens usually get clogged, and pressure is building up on the backside if the valve, and not enough is getting through that your foot commands, eventually it'll get clogged, computer will see it's not putting enough pressure, it'll increase pressure, the thin screens will tear. Now you'll have zero pressure to fire injectors, therefore you won't be able to start or drive the truck.

 

whats your build date on your engine? Is the ICP on the front of pass. valve cover? 03' and early 04' have a high failure rate of the hpop main seal slowly leaking which actually causes a hard/ no start cold issue but when warm the truck will run fine... UNTIL the seal completely blows in which case you will make zero pressure and be stranded much like carguyz28 pointed out. watch your ICP desired vs ICP actual when cold cranking idling and WOT, if they are far off you have a HPO leak, if IPR is at 85% anytime besides WOT you most likely have a HPO leak or a bad IPR valve. and then you need to do the air leak test just like carguyz28 said. also, check your icp pigtail for oil, dirt, or melting if its under the turbo.

 

The engine is a late (August) 2003 build. The truck was made in September 2003.

Okay, it sounds like more than likely I have a problem with the HPOP and/or the IPR. Before I start ripping the thing apart and spending money on parts, I'd like to be able to see what exactly the commanded and actual oil pressure are. Do you guys have any opinion on using an OBD-II USB interface? Such as these:

ScanTool 423001 ElmScan 5 Compact OBD-II Scan Tool and OBDwiz Diagnostic Software

Live Data USB Diagnostic Tool Check Engine OBD2 OBDII OBD1 Code Reader Auto Scan

Of course I'm mainly interested in real time data.

You guys are great! Thank you very much for all the help so far!

 

Go to 7.3 forum. $4.99 Torque Pro for Android phones work awesome on 6.0. OBD II Bluetooth adapter is onlyv $12.99 now.

 

X2 For scanning torque pro is best bang for buck. If you wanna run tests and control ipr during your air leak test then AutoEngenuity is gonna be your go to


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

i cant believe people are really even thinking it could remotely be a computer issue, it is a bad ipr plain and simple if theres still a problem afterwards then you have a weak and dying pump, that code is so straight forward, theres not enough oil pressure at one point or another, grab your scanner and crank the engine and watch the icp, then unplug the ipr and make a test plug and put 12v constant into the ipr and then crank it again and watch how much icp you make it should be 4500 or more if i remeber correctly. also when you change the ipr replace the pigtail as well its probably ruined by now.

 

sorry need to add, but that update is only for the newer engines, this engine is older and the hp oil system is different, there is no stc fitting on the pump, it just makes it easier to diagnose these engines.

 

I don't know how many times on here I've told people it's the ipr valve, and they go checking and changing everything else until they finally do the ipr lol then there like, damn. Shoulda changed that first...

 

Okay, I hear you guys, loud and clear. My next move will be to replace the IPR. Is there a preferred brand?

I'm in Dubuque, IA this week so it may be a while before I get back home to try a new IPR, but I will definitely let you guys know what I find. Thanks a ton, again!

 

Just get the ford factory ipr valve. The newer ones are updated and are a bit better than before

 

as far as ive seen there is no updated ipr for the 6.0 engine, only the bigger international engines. and just call ford give a vin and get the ipr or if you want call international and tell them you have a vt365 and need an ipr plus you should change the pigtail too.

 

I've come across two part numbers:

• 3C3Z-9C968-AA
• 3C3Z-9C968-CA

You're saying the CA would work and be a better choice?

 

If its not your ipr valve. It can be stand pipes. Dummy plugs. Top of injector orings that seal the oil rail. Or hpop orings. Could also be a weak pump.

 

Yes the ipr was updated. In my 04 it was a circle screen. In my 07 it was a circle screen with triangular black plastic in middle to add in strength.

 

Wow. I got spend this weekend at home and got a chance today to evaluate the IPR situation. How the heck am I supposed to get that thing out without removing the turbo?!? I can only see one bolt holding the shield around the IPR and ICP (from below), and that's it! I did a search, but I did not turn up a clear method. Some said from below, some said remove the FICM (again for me ) and do it from the top. Is there a consensus to the best method? Has anyone done a step-by-step? Z28, I guess you weren't kidding about this being a pain on the side of the road.

I still need to replace the oil cooler before I do much more driving. My original thinking was that I would try the IPR before I did the oil cooler and verify that was the problem. That way, if necessary, I could dig deeper (HPOP, etc.) when I did the oil cooler. Now that I see how buried the IPR is, am I better off pulling everything off and doing the oil cooler now, replacing the IPR now, and hoping for the best?

 

Yes it's a pain, you'll need a certain socket to get it off, or a home made job, easier than with a wrench. Take the degas bottle off, the fick off, and you'll have to get your hand in there. It sucks, there may be an easier way, but that's hiwni do it. Only way I know is by scraping knuckles and swearing a lot. No the turbo does not need to come off, but you can take the tubes off and loosen the turbo and move it aside if you feel it's nessisary.

 

get the right socket, and unplug the ipr and icp get it out of the way, and remove the icp, its an 1in 1/16th wrench, and get it out from under the truck and it get that way, it works for me.

 

Alright guys, I ordered a socket. This one:

Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator IPR Socket for Ford Diesel Super Duty 6.0L

I'll report how the process goes. Unfortunately I'm off to Iowa again tomorrow, so it won't be until next weekend.

 

honestly get the otc one, ive seen even the otc sockets snap, these ipr's that get real old get really stuck so i wouldnt want to see you try to do the job and then the tool breaks.

 

Well, I already placed the order, so we will see how it fares. I don't doubt that it won't be an easy twist to remove, so I'll just hope for the best.

It won't be a big deal if the job gets delayed again. It isn't my DD anyway.

 

Well guys, I got to spend last weekend home, and I had time to swap the new IPR in!

It is actually pretty amazing, but with the correct tools it's possible to change the IPR from the top by only removing:

• The surge tank (I just disconnected the two small hoses and moved it out of the way)
• The FICM
• The FICM mounting bracket (take your time with the nuts if they are rusted! I could have easily broken a couple of the studs, but with WD-40 and back and fourth I got 'em)

Thank you guys so much for steering me in the right direction!!! :bowfast::bowfast::bowfast:

The good news:

The truck starts much, much easier when cold. I started it twice at sub-freezing temperatures after sitting for 10-12 hours, and it went on the first try! I didn't even have the block heater plugged in!

Now for the bad news:

While it did start on the first try both times when cold, it still isn't a smooth start. And, sometimes on startup or every time when I floor it for 5-10 seconds, I get the P2290 again. It looks like I've still got some high pressure oil problems to track down.

Where do I go from here? I assume I'm looking at new injector(s) or a new HPOP. How, and where should I start diagnostics? Should I invest in one of these?

6.0L High Pressure Oil System IPR Air Test Tool

Thanks a ton, again.

P.S. The old IPR didn't look too healthy. See pictures. Unfortunately after removal I dropped it and broke off the connector, so I wasn't able to bench test it.

I also posted a picture of the tools I used. They were:

1. 3/8 in. drive breaker bar
2. 3/8 in. drive 8 in. extension
3. 3/8 in. drive stubbby ratchet
4. 3/8 in. drive speciality socket for IPR replacement (the original IPR was in there pretty firmly, but this one held out - not bad for $30, IMHO)

 

D'oh, I forgot I also used a 3/8 in. drive impact universal joint. It is shown in the picture. I'm not sure how possible it would have been without it.

 

Yep, I definitely have big injector pressure problems. The truck barely has enough power to go down the expressway, and every time I go up any sort or a significant grade, it throws the P2290.

And, the right front tire blew last night. Literally at 65 MPH went BOOM!

 

I'm glad the ipr worked out. I was curious, but couldn't find this thread to ask you. Sucks about the tire tho lol. That's just ####ty luck. As far as I go, I'm not sure where else to lead you. It's hard for me without the data scanner to see what the engine is doing. My code ended with the ipr valve change. The dummy plugs, or stc fittings may need to be updated. Your pump may be weak, or you can have somthing as simple as bad fuel filters. Or a clogged fuel line somewhere. It's hard to say from here.