Many of us have our "niche" on what we know.

I will defer to others on any conclusive answer. However, I will say that over the years, I have seen some people live with a contribution code for quite a while, but then others seem to get bit. There are several things that can cause a contribution code, some more potentially harmful than others. If it is a failing injector, or low fuel pressure (#7 is at the end of the fuel rail), then it may become something significant enough to do other damage. Maybe if you know what to watch for it can be driven for a bit - if it has to be.

Personally, especially in an open forum, my advice will almost always be to fix things as soon as possible. The 6.0L reputation is bad enough without any help, lol.

Anxious to see other opinions!

 

Many of us have our "niche" on what we know.

I will defer to others on any conclusive answer. However, I will say that over the years, I have seen come people live with a contribution code for quite a while, but then others seem to get bit. There are several things that can cause a contribution code, some more potentially harmful than others. If it is a failing injector, or low fuel pressure (#7 is at the end of the fuel rail), then it may become something significant enough to do other damage. Maybe if you know what to watch for it can be driven for a bit if it has to be.

Personally, especially in an open forum, my advice will almost always be to fix things as soon as possible. The 6.0L reputation is bad enough without any help, lol.

Anxious to see other opinions!

Thank you @bismic1! We really need to get it about 30 miles and then plan on changing the injector since that is the only code being thrown and there were bubbles when we did the bubble test with the secondary fuel filter at 3/4 full. We just don’t have a way to work on it here.

 

Don't push it. Bubbles when cranking mean that the entire rail will be backing out fuel to a degree. If you had newer injectors on that passenger side, then that might hurt them. If you plan on changing them all anyway, then I wouldn't imagine a careful 30 mile drive would do any more damage.

Again - others may feel differently and I could easily appreciate that perspective as well.

EDIT - I would also say - shut it down if you start seeing a lot of white exhaust smoke.

 

What I get for not checking here for a couple of days -- Bismic's advise is solid, just take it easy on the engine you should be good to get 30 miles
Could be just a leaking copper washer on one of the injectors on that side of the engine -- this will affect the leaking injector most, but all on that bank can be affected by the air

 

Ok so we got it all taken apart and found out that where the injector goes through the valve cover and is connected to wire harness, the injector was pushed through the valve cover…he had just had new injectors put in in January by a ford dealership and apparently they didn’t clip the injector in like it was supposed to be. We just went for a test drive and everything sounds great so far….I know you have it posted somewhere here in the forum but can you tell me exactly where I can find what the fuel pressure is supposed to be sitting at please? @bismic1 @HydroTek

 

Ford's minimum fuel pressure (at WOT) is 45 psig. My minimum acceptable value would be 50 psig. Typically it is around 60-65 psig.

 

Thank you @bismic1 and @HydroTek for all the help again! The truck is currently running great and we’ve had no issues with it since.