Re: Is line honing needed when just stuffing mains?

I was wondering what stuffing the mains was. As long as you torque the studs to the same oem torque spec you should be fine.

 

Thanks whoever did that lol

 

I am under the impression that it needs to be done whenever you are torquing the main caps to a different torque setting other than stock.

 

I would recommend it. The slightest change and it will cost ya more than some cheap insurance.

 

Everyone I have talked to strongly recommends it regardless. If you go to a torque spec dif its mandatory from what I have been told.

 

I'd have it done.

 

I'd have it done, I know when i build the motors for my pro arena trucks we always have them line honed with the girdle your going to be using torqued in place. Makes a noticable difference.

 

Iirc swamps said yes. Even. Just studding.

 

Actually, align honing is not the best procedure.

Align boring is much better when done properly. If the operator is really good, he can minimize the amount of material taken from the block side to nearly eliminate or drastically reduce the rise of the crankshaft center line.

JonFord

 

This is not always true, most line boring machines require two setups to complete the job and rarely do they end up perfectly in line down to the tenths like is possible with a line hone. Most aftermarket blocks are simply line bored from the factory and you can see the mis-alignment in the main housing bore by simply stroking the line hone mandrel through a couple times on low pressure. Just last year Dart had to start line honing all their new SHP blocks as part of the production process because there were too many complaints about mis-aligned mains. This is very apparent on motors where we are running less than a couple thou of main clearance as you can see the scrubbing on the bearings on tear-down of the motors that were simply line bored rather than a two stage line bore then line hone.

The change in crankshaft centerline is minimal, and almost always less with a simple align hone, if the caps are clipped .004, then after honing to size the change in centerline is about .002" - I have never seen a line bored block scratch in with less than that, usually it's about .005" with a line bore which is why all the performance timing chain sets are offered in (-.005)

Back to the original question, I always align hone these blocks with studs or stud/girdles because it's about 50/50 on the ones that you can measure a change or distortion in the housing bore, but an align hone assures you that all those main bores are perfectly in line with each other, something that takes as much time to measure properly as it does to correct.

 

Line bore should be done anytime you change the clamping forces, studs, girdle or new caps...

 

is it needed if you just do the studs.

No.

 

x2 :whs:

 

So it's not needed just to do studs? As long as you keep the same amount of torque? Is that how I'm reading this? When you pull the old bolts out, how do you know what kinda torque they had behind them? Maybe you know the guy that built it to begin with or hope the factory got 'em all on point...

I'd prefer not to take that chance, line honing is easy insurance & one of those "while it's apart" deals.

I don't know, I'm in wonderment myself here.

 

, line honing is easy insurance & one of those "while it's apart" deals.

And that seems reasonable. I'm just trying to avoid the "apart" part. I have a very low mile forged rod engine from my 96 that I'm keeping as a spare. I'm thinking of having some work done to it but dont want to take it apart further than whats needed. I dont even know if I need studs for my target HP range of 650, if studs alone are even worth it or if the girdle is required etc. If I can safely make 650 on a stocked forged rod bottom end then I would prefer that.

 

650 on a stock bottom end will need some careful tunes and a moderated foot.

a girdle or studs at least would help, but i'd call swamps or di, *** see what they say. over 600 i start to look at rods and girdles but they may say otherwise.

 

wouldn't you say balancing should be done as well as cryoing the rod's..thats what's in my plans for now with my build....i cant swing the griddle so i will be building with out it...im keeping the 38R for a year or two so i will be limited to 520 HP + or -- but hope to step up to a 42R..

 

i don't think he wanted to go that deep.
sounds like he wanted just to pull a bult replace it with a stud sorta thing.

 

thanks Mike
i understand that part...i was just thinking to make 650 HP and have it last it would have to be done so she dont rip her self a part..from what i hear these cranks are not all that well balanced...with the stress on the rods to make 650 HP.. it would make it even harder on them with a un balanced crank and un treated rod's....my question is... am i over doing my build?? right now my build is going to be close to $6K and i realdy think im skimping on some things just to save a buck... but i also know doing a build i want it to last and not cost me more later down the road...

 

The answer is yes, do it right. You can choose not to do it and then cross your fingers.

FWIW, everything I have done has been on a completely untouched bottom end. The engine is currently going back into the truck, the same way... but with less oil leaks.