The first step is to see if any codes are stored. The places that read codes free CANNOT read the codes that you need. You'll need to pay either an independent shop or a Ford dealer, or find someone in your area that has an Auto Enginuity.

 

Hey Mark, anyone and Jesus lol but Mark, I see your name in a lot of spots on many threads!! I’m not the mechanic but I RESEARCH! Lol!
I have a long drawn out story, long story short
Bought 96f250 7.3 converted to 4wd (no issues/necessary updates)
Bought a 4wd trans (didn’t work)
Sold bought another/installed… then changed 3 solenoid packs with my husband (it’s my truck lol) still… not shifting (so much time and drama with a “new built, bought trans) codes showed slipping and trans issue
Trans 3 truck did drive on D after test driving here and there, NOW…it’ll only drive starting in 2nd, bumped down to drive. At every stop and go it has to go to l2 then drive to move) P,R, L2 THEN D functions but not accordingly (NO CODES present) when driving with current issue!
So many new parts and updates, is it dumb luck you think on now trans #3 or something ahead of that or random that just won’t let this old dog shift no matter what trans is in it! The trans fluid & dead end parts bill is off the chain
My husband is mechanically inclined specifically diesels! I have NEVER seen him so stumped on something in my life OR do we really have crazy bad luck due to luck of draw on 2 new trans and 1 rebuilt one

im sry to post here i wasn’t allowed to start a thread :””(

 

Does your odometer work? Until you get time to go get codes read, check to see if your odometer is working.

If it isn't, check the fuse for it and replace it. It controls the shifter for the transmission. Past that, Mark knows best about whats going on.

 

Hey there so I was haveing a similar issues with my 97 powerstroke 7.3 it was haveing issues shifting up into second and 3 and so on it was shifting way late so I replaced the speed sensor on my rear axel it costed me 45$ from ford I put it in took the truck for a drive sure enough it shifted beautiful from first to second and even to third when the sensor goes bad it can cause shifting problems because it screws up speedometer and the transmissin dosnt know when to shift, the speed sensor is right on the rear axle at the to you can miss it if I'm correct it's a 13 mm bolt that holds it down and it plugs in it dosnt hurt to pull it out and check it you can't test it but if you pull it out make sure the bottem peace isn't covered and gunked up in differential fluid and just need to clean it off if that didn't fix it after cleaned you might need to just get a new one you can't test or really see if it's bad it just goes over age of constantly heating up its only 45$ wouldn't hurt to check it out or look into it

 

So i finally got it to a trans shop to have it scanned and it had 9 codes in the truck and the first one was tps sensor so the guy told me to replace it first and then go from there im not to positive what the other codes were but there were all related to the tps so i just got the part delivered so i will get it in and go from there thanks guys for the help so far

 

Did you ever get this resolved ?

 

I have a 1996 Ford F350-XL with the 460 gasoline engine, Hi-Top Bell-housing type E4OD and I was having the same problem. I have the transmission all the way out and I have found several problems. Gasket on the steel plate between case and valve body was broke badly under the solenoid pack, and clutch frictions inside direct drum were toast along with some other frictions (OD and intermediate and direct clutch frictions so far). Further wire was broken (looked burned apart) near the connector to the solenoid pack in the valve body area, and after investigating, the wire is for the TCC. I've been leaking fluid out the pan gasket and front of tranny. I think the seal on the front pump is gone I didn't even see it in there. So I got a bunch of new parts for it. New TC, new front pump, tons of seals and bushings and some clutch frictions, I also got the upper and lower valve body gaskets. So hope I can get this all squared away

 

Any luck so far?
I'm having the same issue but ONLY once it warms up. Firdt 5-10 min of driving from a cold start is perfect and shifts smoothly 🤦‍♂️

 

Yeah, all you guys having problems with this E4 OD definitely check the wiring connections because when I took mine apart that was the biggest problem the TCC the torque converter wasn’t getting a connection electronically but you can usually tell I mean there’s usually a guard protecting the harness connector on the transmission and you have to takeoff two small bolts. I think it’s eight or 10 mm but Take that off and just make sure the wires aren’t black and burnt up or anything. Make sure they all seem to appear to be intact. Other than that if you do have a problem with this, you might have to change the valve body to transmission gaskets and that will probably require removing the transmission unless you can somehow turn the car upside down and keep all the checks in there that way lol.

 

You say there are codes, but NO CODES. I don't understand that. What codes are there? I want numbers, not descriptions.

When it won't go, is it in neutral or locked up?

 

Haven checked for any codes. Should I go to a dealer for them to read it. My problem is it shifts fine when cold but when warm it won’t shift to 3rd or 4th unless I shift to 2. Sometimes I’ll get it to shift to 3rd when I put my foot to the floor when it’s in 2nd gear and all of a sudden it’ll jolt me forward when it shifts because my foots to the ground. It’s weird thought, when I buy my foot to the floor, the engine doesn’t rev up high at all.

 

The dealer can read the codes. So can a good independent shop. Auto parts stores CANNOT read these codes.

You can also download Forscan free at www.forscan.org. It can read all of the codes. You don't need to buy a license to read codes.

 

 

Much appreciated!