You could do X code fronts. they are the standard F450/550 springs and snow plow prep for the 250/350

 

The worst problem is when I'm towing my flatbed trailer and go over a bump I get a lot of up and down action in the front like a Mexican low-rider with hydraulics.

Maybe new or better shocks are needed?

 

Recommended Bilsteins from whom and what model? I think OBSWiz on here (CaryT) can supply different valved Bilsteins that might provide a different ride. Kind of tire, rims and pressure you runnin? You could also check out the Icon rebuildable shocks.

jrc

 

I got the silver Bilsteins from OBSWiz that he recommended. Rims are the stock ones and I'm keeping those. Running highway tires with recommended pressure.

Anyone need a couple of Bilsteins with less than 500 miles on them?

 

I also think I would go with a firmer shocks if you wanted as different ride style if they are available. as the easiest change to make. The sliver body Bilsteins I have on there now seem to have a different feel then the yellow body ones that were on there before. I think the silver ones are softer but I like them.

 

I guess dual shocks could be a thought as well.

This was a thread on the SKY RSK with SD Springs and 5125 shocks

F350: 3 Shackle Reversal / Bilstein 5125 / Bouncy.. - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

I put the skyjacker dual shock brackets on my truck and am running dual single valved (stiff) Bilsteins up front. NO more bounce! It' rides just right, not too soft not too hard. Just posting up results!

http://www.superlift.com/instructions/1940.pdf

 

I think you could firm up your ride pretty easily with a different set of shocks. I wouldn't see the need for a dual setup. Measure your eye to eye shock length at ride height and call the Bilstein tech line. Give them the model number of the current shock you are running and that you feel the ride is way too soft. They should be able to recommend a firmer shock for you.

 

The Bilstein 5100 series shocks are for lifted trucks.

The 5100 series shock is with comfort valving.
The 5125 series shock is optional valving, you choose the valving.
The 5150 series shock is the same as the 5125 but with a piggy back reservior.

Which shocks did you go with?

The steering wheel feel is your caster angle. With any RSK, the caster angle changes. The only way to change caster angle on a solid axle is by shimming or drilling new holes in the rear spring frame mount. Most alignment shops don't want to do this, they just want to do "toe and go".

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

The Bilstein 5100 series shocks are for lifted trucks.

The 5100 series shock is with comfort valving.
The 5125 series shock is optional valving, you choose the valving.
The 5150 series shock is the same as the 5125 but with a piggy back reservoir.

Which shocks did you go with?

I got the 5125 series. F4-BE5-6248-H5

 

I installed some steel 2 degree shims on mine when I installed the RSK as I wanted to stay close to stock on the alignment specs. I think the steering effort on mine is the same as my truck was stock. I also figured that it did not hurt to keep the pinion more on the same angle.

Warrior Products - Jeep - Leaf Spring Shims | Warrior Products

You can also change the bushings at the upper ball joints to change caster. I changed the one on just one side as it had a 3/4 degree positive caster one in there when I got the axle. I am not sure why but that caused a pull. I now have a zero degree on one side the that 3/4 degree one replaced with a 1/4 degree one turned to add 3/16 positive camber and caster and it tracks straight and the wheels are perpendicular to the road. They also have adjustable ones but I was not quite impressed with those but it did work to find the fixed one I wanted.

 

Did these shims replace the little short plate that goes between the axle and the two leafs or did you add that as well?

Anyone drill the rear spring mounts? There does seem like an inch or two of wasted space there.

I installed some steel 2 degree shims on mine when I installed the RSK as I wanted to stay close to stock on the alignment specs. I think the steering effort on mine is the same as my truck was stock. I also figured that it did not hurt to keep the pinion more on the same angle.

 

The bushings will also affect the caster.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

I ADDED THE SHIMS. I HAVE SEEN THAT RRAR MOUNT DRILLED. ROCKY AND BILLY HAVE IT THAT WAY.

 

I had my rear spring hanger drilled as well with my old ORU kit. But when Trevor make my kit he factored that in and made the shackles LONGER. My trucks drive perfect with his kits and SD springs

 

That would seem like the logical solution.

 

How close to factory would drilling the rear spring mounts adjust the caster? Will this also lower the front a little more?

 

If you drill the shackle hanger higher, it might reduce your castor .3-.5*. Really not enough to matter much. The castor is not affecting your complaints from the ride softness. Has the truck had an alignment? If so, what were the castor numbers? I would typically recommend it to be set at 3-4* on a leaf sprung truck and a little higher on the coil frontends. If you are at or below this number, I would not be concerned at all.

 

In case some hasn't mentioned it...

Make the steering box adjustments in small increments and turn the steering wheel lock to lock in between adjustments. It is loosest at the neutral position as it rides there most of the time and it can bind at the tighter spots when the wheel is turned. Make your test drives at a speed and in a location that an unxpectedly bound steering system doesn't put you at risk.

 

Great info guys. Will research the drilling of the rear hanger, steering and such when I'm st home on my computer.

 

will this work with a 2.25 rsk with vodes? 97 f350

 

This thread has been dead for almost 12 years!