Automatic or manual tranny?

 

All you got to do is swap the horn pan from non cc to CC. ANd POSSIBLY put the fuse in for it. All the wiring is there for it

 

It's an auto. I'm hoping to get the tilt column in Sun or Mon afternoon. I'll check on the fuse.

 

there is a blank jumper plug next to the fuse block under the hood.

you need to remove the factory jumper cover and add a wire that jumpers the 2 plugs together.

install your hornpad with cruise plug it in and it works.

i've done cruise install on 2 ford trucks, 97-f350 and 96-f250 both ways and they are working.

 

Hi I did all you say and is not working can you give some ideas I put my scanner and cruise is off

 

Here is a write up that a member on another forum did for adding cruse.

Procedure
<font color="blue"> 1. </font> With the ignition off, sitting in the driver’s seat with the steering wheel directly in front of you:
1.a. Find the seam of the horn pad, follow it down the steering column to its base.
1.b. Gently pull on the pad’s base directly towards you, this will not take a lot of effort.
1.c. Once the pad dislodges, carefully lift the pad tilting it to one side, exposing the connector.
1.d. Using needle nosed pliers, disconnect the small harness.
1.e. Once disconnected, the old horn pad can be set aside.
<font color="blue"> 2. </font> Installation is reverse of disassembly. On the back side of the horn pad you will see a pin, centerline. On the column, find the slot that the pin engages and:
2.a. With the small harness made up, slide the pad down, evenly, until the pad is flush with the
remaining steering wheel. Most likely the horn will sound by pushing on the pad.
<font color="blue"> 3. </font> Your almost done, move to the engine compartment and:
3.a. On the driver’s side, locate the Power Distribution Box.
3.b. Originating from the PDB is a two wire run w/ a connector. The connector will have a dummy plug installed. The two wires are black w/ a red tracer and brown w/ an orange tracer. The connector would, if equipped with factory cruise, connect to the brake master cylinder. This would be a redundant method of cutting off the cruise function if the primary function failed. Since your truck is not factory equipped with cruise, you master cylinder doesn’t have the switch, therefore the connector must be shorted. Do this by:
3.b.1. Remove the dummy plug
3.b.2. With a small, male spade connector, remove the crimping plastic insulator (this is because the insulators are too bulky to be placed side by side in a small connector)
3.b.3. Trim both sides of the spade equally using the side cutters. Test fit. Remember, two spades will be placed close together, trim accordingly.
3.b.4. Once satisfied with the fit of the spades in the connector, make up a short piece of #10 wire, crimp on the spades or solder if desired, and use the heat shrink in place of the plastic insulator removed in step 3.b.2.
3.b.5. Insert the shorting wire into the connector. It’s a good idea to drip some wax on the connections to weather proof. Liquid electrical tape would also surfice.

Alternate Method
There is another method to short the two wire connector.
1. Cut off the connector, leaving a generous pig tail for future splicing.
2. Simply strip and connect the two wires together using a but connector.

I don’t recommend this because if you ever replace the brake master cylinder, purchase a replacement M/C with one fitted for cruise control, purchase the switch that would install in the M/C, remove the shorting wire and connect to the new switch. One step closer to factory!

Testing
As recommended, test in a remote area. Once desired speed is met, engage cruise. Test by tapping clutch pedal, ensure C/C disengages. Reset speed and test again by tapping the brake pedal. Once more by pushing the OFF button on the horn pad.

 

Here is a write up that a member on another forum did for adding cruse.

Procedure
<font color="blue"> 1. </font> With the ignition off, sitting in the driver’s seat with the steering wheel directly in front of you:
1.a. Find the seam of the horn pad, follow it down the steering column to its base.
1.b. Gently pull on the pad’s base directly towards you, this will not take a lot of effort.
1.c. Once the pad dislodges, carefully lift the pad tilting it to one side, exposing the connector.
1.d. Using needle nosed pliers, disconnect the small harness.
1.e. Once disconnected, the old horn pad can be set aside.
<font color="blue"> 2. </font> Installation is reverse of disassembly. On the back side of the horn pad you will see a pin, centerline. On the column, find the slot that the pin engages and:
2.a. With the small harness made up, slide the pad down, evenly, until the pad is flush with the
remaining steering wheel. Most likely the horn will sound by pushing on the pad.
<font color="blue"> 3. </font> Your almost done, move to the engine compartment and:
3.a. On the driver’s side, locate the Power Distribution Box.
3.b. Originating from the PDB is a two wire run w/ a connector. The connector will have a dummy plug installed. The two wires are black w/ a red tracer and brown w/ an orange tracer. The connector would, if equipped with factory cruise, connect to the brake master cylinder. This would be a redundant method of cutting off the cruise function if the primary function failed. Since your truck is not factory equipped with cruise, you master cylinder doesn’t have the switch, therefore the connector must be shorted. Do this by:
3.b.1. Remove the dummy plug
3.b.2. With a small, male spade connector, remove the crimping plastic insulator (this is because the insulators are too bulky to be placed side by side in a small connector)
3.b.3. Trim both sides of the spade equally using the side cutters. Test fit. Remember, two spades will be placed close together, trim accordingly.
3.b.4. Once satisfied with the fit of the spades in the connector, make up a short piece of #10 wire, crimp on the spades or solder if desired, and use the heat shrink in place of the plastic insulator removed in step 3.b.2.
3.b.5. Insert the shorting wire into the connector. It’s a good idea to drip some wax on the connections to weather proof. Liquid electrical tape would also surfice.

Alternate Method
There is another method to short the two wire connector.
1. Cut off the connector, leaving a generous pig tail for future splicing.
2. Simply strip and connect the two wires together using a but connector.

I don’t recommend this because if you ever replace the brake master cylinder, purchase a replacement M/C with one fitted for cruise control, purchase the switch that would install in the M/C, remove the shorting wire and connect to the new switch. One step closer to factory!

Testing
As recommended, test in a remote area. Once desired speed is met, engage cruise. Test by tapping clutch pedal, ensure C/C disengages. Reset speed and test again by tapping the brake pedal. Once more by pushing the OFF button on the horn pad.

Thank you all for the info. I completed the steps, after I found the proper wiring harness, and viola, I have cruise control. All is good!!

 

3.b.2. With a small, male spade connector, remove the crimping plastic insulator (this is because the insulators are too bulky to be placed side by side in a small connector)
3.b.3. Trim both sides of the spade equally using the side cutters. Test fit. Remember, two spades will be placed close together, trim accordingly.
3.b.4. Once satisfied with the fit of the spades in the connector, make up a short piece of #10 wire, crimp on the spades or solder if desired, and use the heat shrink in place of the plastic insulator removed in step 3.b.2.
3.b.5. Insert the shorting wire into the connector. It’s a good idea to drip some wax on the connections to weather proof. Liquid electrical tape would also surfice.

Alternate Method
There is another method to short the two wire connector.
1. Cut off the connector, leaving a generous pig tail for future splicing.
2. Simply strip and connect the two wires together using a but connector.

Or you could get a SPOUT connector from a gas powered OBS and just plug it in, thats what I did.

 

will the same thing work with a 02?

 

No

 

Is this in the library?? If not it should be.... Good info to have if you dont have cruise control......

 

Bringing a thread back from the dead. Ive got a unique situation. Ive also got an XL truck with no cruise, it WAS a powerstroke, now its got a 12v in it. Will doing what has been posted above work? Or do i need to figure something else out?

 

You would want to look at a PRE powerstroke truck. The 92-94 IDIs were NON computer controlled, like your Cummins. They used a Mechanical linkage to hold speed

 

Is the Cummins set up with a drive-by-wire accelerator?

Edit - duh, what am I thinking? Probably _NO_, since the Cummins is a mostly mechanical engine. In any event, if the accelerator pedal has a cable, then NO, cruise is NOT plug-and-play like it is with our drive-by-wire accelerators.

 

So what would I all need then? Steering column, and pedal assembly?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

Column is no different, but YES, throttle pedal(but you should already have one if you have a 12V). And the cruise servo

 

Hi there. First time posting. I have a 1995 f250 7.3. I'm pretty sure the only options this truck had is long bed, diesel, and auto. I read this post and followed the steps, but I cannot for the life of me find that 2 wire connector. I've looked multiple times on the off chance I just missed it. Maybe I'm just a goon but I cannot find it. I removed the airbox and lifted the pdb to make sure it wasn't hiding. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

 

Post pics of the harness where you're looking, and a better description of the connector so each of us doesn't have to go back through this whole thread looking for what you're talking about.

 

This is a photo taken from another forum thread referencing the same 2 prong connector. It is the connector for the brake switch that goes into the end of the master cylinder. This was apperently found on cruise control models. On non equipped models the connector is supposed to be there but with a dummy cap in place. I hope this helps.

 

Pics of OTHER trucks don't help either of us - post pics of YOUR truck's harness right where you see that takeout for the SCDS coming from: behind the PDB. If necessary, remove the 3 11mm nuts (7/16") from under the wheelwell, and lift the PDB for better access to the harness.

 

Apologies I miss understood what you wanted. Here are a couple photos of the pdb. I removed the airbox for better access of photos.

 

I've labelled most of the visible takeouts, but you need to manually follow & ID the one near the lower right corner.

 

Well wonderful news. Turns out I'm blind. After looking at you wiring labeling, I started manually labeling everything myself so I wouldn't get lost or confused. Short of it, right underneath the relay bracket, there is the capped 2 wire I was looking for. Made a jumper and cruise worked great. Thank you though so much for the help. Your help identifying all the wire looms helped alot!

 

Then you should post a few pics of what you found & did for the NEXT person who tries to use this thread.