I bought a 2000 F250 7.3 with 129K. One owner, perfect condition. Only problem was that it didn't run. Got it home, cranked and cranked and it finally ran. Just had air in the oil system. Ran really well until I powerwashed the top and underside of the truck to get a bunch of gunk off it. Right after pulling out of the wash station, the truck began to run like garbage. To the floor I was only doing 15-20 mph and blowing white smoke. Had to pull over several times on the 3 mile drive back home. Did some research and learned about the wiring harnesses that connect to the valve covers and the UVCWH. Disconnected all of that and put high pressure air to it. All dry. Still had the issue. Checked all connections on the UVCWH, those were good. So I went to the injectors, when idling it sounded like it was missing. I unplugged injector 1 and nothing changed. I unplugged injector 2 and it sounded even worse. So I thought, must be an injector but I couldn't confirm as no local shop can test an injector out of truck. I bought the AE scanner and I did a buzz test. All 8 injectors buzz but cylinder 1 failed I decided to unplug cylinder 3 and plug injector 1 into the cylinder 3 injector plug but cylinder 3 didn't fail so the injector is good?? I unplugged the UVCWH for cylinder 1, 3, 5, 7 and did another buzz test. I heard 8 buzzes but cylinder 1 fails. WTF?? I started thinking IDM so I unplugged that, cleaned it all out and put it back. Run another buzz test and cylinder 1 and 3 fail now. My brain had enough confusion for the day so I called it quits. What the heck is going on with this thing?? I know it's something electrical and I know the UVCWH is working properly and that the injectors are fine. I really don't want to waste $250 on a reman IDM only to find out it wasn't the issue. Anyone ever experienced electrical gremlins on a 7.3L?
Jsamsonite
So you switched the number one injector with number three, and it was fine in the number three slot..
It sounds like #1's wiring is the issue. What leads you to believe the UVCH is okay? It could be that the connection or wiring for the number one cylinder is bad.
It sounds like #1's wiring is the issue. What leads you to believe the UVCH is okay? It could be that the connection or wiring for the number one cylinder is bad.
Simple wire test, ohm injector feeds from idm plug from the power feed to ground should be around 4 ohms with injector plugged in. Then test all injectors leads at idm plug to battery ground to check for possible shorts. Then check from each injector to eachother with all injectors unplugged. Don't just unplug the uvch connector. From what's it sounds possible short between 1 and 3. Possibly uvch or chafed wires
After pulling my hair out and going crazy, a buddy of mine tracked it down to the EBP sensor. $100 and now it's fine. But in the process, my turbo started having issues. The former owner decided to put a crap Chinese turbo on it and now the fan is rubbing against the inside of the compressor housing. Goodie. Time to go drop some coin on a turbo...
Better to spend money on go fast parts then to spend money on keeping a truck running like some newer trucks ya know.
Sounds like you got a pretty good truck good luck this is a great site.
Sounds like you got a pretty good truck good luck this is a great site.
If you can get a reman IDM for $250, thats a steal. That and new UVCH will usually set you back close to $1500 from stealership. those harnesses take alot of stress from continual hot oil and age. Electrical gremilins can exhibit weird symptoms, if it were me, I'd start by repalcing both harnesses and go from there. When that harness shorts, it will sometimes take out the IDM
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