no pics and this is general overview....

Break everything down, remove valve covers.
Pull glow plugs.
Pull injectors.
Remove bottom engine mount bolts.
Remove 3 bolts on driver side engine mount to block and lift engine.
Remove driver side mount and lower engine. Engine should now be tilted over and you should have access to the passenger head.
Remove CENTER bolts one at a time and replace with studs per instructions. Once all 18 are done and torqued properly, replace the driver side engine mount.
Remove the passenger side mount like you did the driver side and lower the engine. Engine should now be tilted enough to access the driver side bolts.
Repeat steps taken on passenger side.

Reverse process of tear down.

 

Remember to replace the injector orings and follow injector replacement procedures.

Also, You *MIGHT* need to remove the alt and remove the power steering pump bracket. Lay them off to the side. This will allow a bit more room and flex as needed.

 

Thanks Dirk, trying to get ready to do this job. I already have a set of injector orings, just waiting on the head studs. Would rather install studs now than blow gasket and have to deal with all that entails. Also do you have to take the heater box apart on the pasenger side? Looks awful close on that side

 

I've done several trucks like this:

Remove everything to get the valve covers off, remove injectors, glowplugs, heater box (14 screws/bolts/etc) *DO NOT FORGET ONE and break the seal, you can get to every single headbolt on the passenger side without rocking anything. You can get to every headbolt on the driver side without rocking until you get to the rear most bolt. Just undo the two 21mm tranny nuts, the 4 21mm motor mounts and jack up on the driver side exhaust manifold. Have someone up top trying to put the stud in while you're jacking the manifold up.

As stated before, remove the alt/ac etc if needed and replace orings/copper crush washer before injector reinstallation.

 

I have had to remove the trans mount on one truck, 3 others didn't. Haven't had to remove the air box either. Install new 910 springs while you are there. really easy with the motor in or out.

 

Hope you're strong and have a tough belly... you'll be on it all day. Also follow factory torquing sequence (center and work your way out.)

 

Thanks to everyone for their input. I know I am not looking forward to laying on that motor again. That is the part I am dreading.

 

Where are you located?

Get a friend and alternate. V8 it LMAO.

 

Get a friend and alternate. V8 it LMAO.

LOLLOL

 

id just buy a cherry picker and pull the engine. then do springs and pushrods at the same time.

 

Sounds like everybodies truck has been a lil different. The only constant is that it's the back one on each side that has to have the motor moved to get to it.

 

I am thinking about doing the springs while I am there. I will need to get a compressor tool. Any other things need changing if springs are changed?

 

If you can get your hands on the tool from Ford to do the springs it makes it alot easier. It bolts right to the rocker arm towers. Or buy a cheap spring compressor tool from NAPA.... Then when you have the motor rocked, install the springs on that side.

 

You do not need to do anything else if you install valve springs.

 

magnet bolt grabber will make removing the keepers MUCH easier.

 

What worked for me was a phillips magnetic screw driver. It was small enough to reach in there and grab the keepers. Plus it made them alot easier to install using it...

The other magnets I had were all just a tad bit too large to fit in to grab the keepers..

 

The magnet is how I did it.



This is what the valve springs look like when all installed.

 

Might as well throw up my headstud install video too lol.





While I'm at it, I might as well include my injector writeup lol.

Remove the valve covers, then pull the oil plugs. They are located between the #1 & #3, #5 & #7, #2 & #4 and #6 & #8 injectors.

Be very careful with them, they are 1/8" allen heads. Do not use a key, use a SOCKET. Put it in the hole, and rap on it a few times. Then loosen.



Here is a picture of one that I stripped, then had to hammer a 1 size larger torx bit into in order to extract it.

While those are draining, un hook all of the injectors, and use one finger to pull up on the white wire (glow plug wire). It will just pop off. Remove reuseable gasket.



Make sure this copper washer is still on the injector and not down in the injector cup.

Then use a deep well 10mm 1/4" drive socket to remove the glow plugs. *BONUS TIP!!!!***
After you get the glow plug loose with the 10mm switch to an 11mm and it will not get bound up under the pushrod. *Some 1/4" drive deep 10mm's will get stuck, others will not.

Reinstalling Injectors...


With the glow plugs out, the oil plugs in, the injectors in - this is how I purged the cylinders.

 

Post whore.

 

"yes I'm wearing bedroom slippers again" LOL

 

They match his skirt. :evil

 

haha. Funny guy. haha.

 

One thing that should be said if you replace the springs...

When replacing the rockers. Get a wire coat hanger and insert it in the glow plug hole. Turn the engine over slowly by hand. Once the cylinder is at the bottom, install the pushrods and rockers. Torque the rockers to 20ft lbs.

 

TDC 4 springs.
BDC 4 Pushrods.
Doesn't matter for Injectors or studs.

 

Thanks for all the info. Studs on order will be hopefully starting on truck this weekend.