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I disagree.
You can certainly disagree. But then you'll get laughed at. Maybe look at Mark's sig before you argue your side further. Or not. I could use some entertainment.
 
Ah I see what your saying about the pickuo
unfortunately most of the oil would be returning to the pan internally since the temps wouldn't be 170 so you would have a mess on your hands
I need to draw a picture LOL.
My crazy idea is to have a moded pan installed. This pan would have a hose connected to the bottom for draining returning oil to a pail. A second hose would pass thru the pan and connect to where the internal filter attaches which is the pump suction. Of coarse this hose would need to be somehow sealed where it passes thru the oil pan so there isn't a huge mess to clean up.
 
lol I think your on to something

the 5r110 "Easy Flush Pan " also sold as the "EFP" by Term Industries just $150.99LOL

it should totally be doable now that I see what your talking about
 
My only question is how far below the trans will the pump be able to draw fluid. It might need a way to feed ATF to the pump.
 
good point
how much suction lift is the 5r capable of

Term you better recall the " EFP " pans you already shipped until your crack team of "Term Industry" Engineers can calculate the answer
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
The valve does not open until it reaches 165 degrees. The valve does not instantaneously close the second it hits 165 degrees, the viscosity does have something to do with the valve closing. If you heat up the quarts of fluid the majority of the old fluid will be flushed out. The proof is in when you are doing the flush the old fluid in dark red like blood. And the new fluid is bright red like cool aid. The first three gallons will be a blood red color and when you put the drain hose in to the forth gallon it will look like cool aid. No joke. Three of us have done this and it works. If we can't agree at least we can laugh at each other!
 
My only question is how far below the trans will the pump be able to draw fluid. It might need a way to feed ATF to the pump.
I'm thinking that if a marine type fuel tank which are low profile was used for the new ATF that it could be put up on blocks closer to the transmission so that way the pump is not trying to draw ATF up from two feet below. I guess it could even be higher then the transmission since it's a positive displacement pump and nothing is going to flow thru it until its turning anyway. Watch, some guy in China is probably reading this right now and gearing up to make thousands upon thousands of the "Term3 Quick ATF Change Pan" and probably will be a millionaire by the end of the year on my idea. Meantime I'm still paying for my truck. LOL
 
The valve does not open until it reaches 165 degrees. The valve does not instantaneously close the second it hits 165 degrees,
That's true. The nominal opening temperature is 165°F. It starts to open before that, and needs to be hotter than that to be 100% open.

the viscosity does have something to do with the valve closing.
No more than the color of the fluid does. How would the viscosity be involved? If this was a fast acting device, then viscosity would have some affect. But it's not. It moves slowly and viscosity isn't a factor.

Ever study how a coolant thermostat works? They have nominal temperatures around 200°F. Engine coolant doesn't appreciably change viscosity from it's freezing point to it's boiling point. The technology that makes that thermostat work is exactly the same as what makes the ATF thermostat work.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
If the fluid is not heated and you try to do the flush it wont work because the valve will close.

If you heat the fluid the valve stays open long enough to get the old fluid out.

Try it and see how fast you will be able to pour in the new fluid. You'll put in the 12-14 quarts in less than a minute.
 
Exactly right. If the fluid is cool the thermostat closes because it cools off.
 
That's true. The nominal opening temperature is 165°F. It starts to open before that, and needs to be hotter than that to be 100% open.


No more than the color of the fluid does. How would the viscosity be involved? If this was a fast acting device, then viscosity would have some affect. But it's not. It moves slowly and viscosity isn't a factor.

Ever study how a coolant thermostat works? They have nominal temperatures around 200°F. Engine coolant doesn't appreciably change viscosity from it's freezing point to it's boiling point. The technology that makes that thermostat work is exactly the same as what makes the ATF thermostat work.
Exactly correct Mark. All this seems very elementary to me and simple to understand (and it's not due to my 35 years in the petro-chemical industry either). I don't know why this is questioned on the forums over and over again. LOL
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Are you guys saying that the 6.0 transmission cannot be flushed? Or do you have another method?

Think about this. If you pulled a trailer in the summer and got the temp up to 230 (which I do all summer long). You are saying the valve will still close and a flush is impossible. The valve does not instantaneously close and it only takes a minute or two to put in the new fluid. Plus I've done it!!!
 
No, that's not what I'm saying. I'm saying that viscosity doesn't enter into this, only temperature does.

Where are you trying to say with the 230°F comment? When the trans is that hot the thermostat is open all the time.
 
I originally stated that during normal driving you won't likely get it to 170 specially in the winter

and some try to put it in drive apply the brake and up the revs to bring it to temps.

I find that a waste of fuel and hard on the truck.

not to mention trying to bring the replacement fluid up to temp but not burning it or accidentally adding contaminants.

this is why I think a heated flush machine is best IMHO
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
A heated flush machine is good but most people don't have one so you can't do the flush yourself.

The 230 degrees comment was just to state that it is possible for the valve to stay open long enough to do the flush yourself.
 
I know most people don't have the heated flush machine ,, and a table lamp heater isn't one either LOL

anyway I think it's safer for most to do the pan drop filter change and eight quart swap more often than the 30k interval if they want to DIY

My whole point is while you probably pulled it off and you are all over the technical aspects of this particular transmission ( I see your other post ,, your no dummy)

most Homie DIY flush jobs would blow the flush and cross contaminate the fluids or worse burn themselves to a 3rd degree level ( crispy)

so the Ford dealer or the other method I linked to with the pan drop and air gun isn't a bad choice
 
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