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The 03 doesn't use the EBP sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Update:
I rigged up a way to test for boost leaks. Found another one under the air cleaner in the cold side cac pipe. Tried plugging the hole up to find any other leaks and didn’t find any others, but my plug job wasn’t the best either(1” thick high density foam hose clamped over the hole ). I’m gonna replace the cac pipes and hope that clears things up.

I’ll report back in a few days after the swap. Still need to check the up pipes for leaks a bit more thoroughly.
 

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I've also seen loose intake manifold bolts.

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Discussion Starter #28
Since the up pipe is so tough, get a friend to rev the motor and stick your hand back there and check for a leak at idle and up to 2000 rpm.

I think it's not on the turbo, check for boost and exhaust leaks. Did you check out the ebp sensor? I would give it a good power brake and see if you get to 20 psi boost, look at the exhaust for smoke.
When you say power brake, you mean step on the brake, while in gear, and give it throttle, correct?
move tried that and it won’t make boost.
 

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Yeah, have it full or almost full throttle? Did you have any smoke?

Have you checked your air cleaner?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yeah I’ve checked the air cleaner. It looked a bit dirty so I pulled the whole thing out just for a short test. No change.

and at full, almost full, half throttle, the most boost I get is from -1.8 to 0.5 psi.
 

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After your sure there are no boost leaks and the up pipe isn't leaking as well, I would probably get a cyl contribution test, does a compression test and injector test at the same time if I recall.

Maybe someone else will have a better idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
After your sure there are no boost leaks and the up pipe isn't leaking as well, I would probably get a cyl contribution test, does a compression test and injector test at the same time if I recall.

Maybe someone else will have a better idea.
There were 2 leaks I could find. One at the exhaust manifold to up pipe connection, which I got fixed up. And one on the cold air CAC pipe to the intake. That one I only have a temporary repair on( tried sealing it the best I could. I’ve got new CAC pipes on order and they should be here Friday.
Once I fixed(ish) those leaks, it did improve. Brought the rpm required to make power lower, to about 1800 rpm instead of 2500, and max boost psi I see on WOT is 17 psi. But it’s still sluggish at real low rpm. Takes the truck a good while to warm up after starting too. I’m wondering if the vgt solenoid isn’t working properly.
I don’t smell exhaust in the cab and can’t feel any leaks on the up pipe. Though I noticed one exhaust manifold bolt is missing.

Once the parts come in I’ll try and do a better boost leak test.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
If the truck takes awhile to warm up the thermostat can be stuck open
Do you think that would be related? From the reading I was doing on the operation and function of the vgt, if it is functioning properly and the canes are closed at idle, it should help warm the truck at cooler ambient temps.... which to me is just another symptom of the vgt not properly operating. Though maybe the boost leaks aren’t helping.
 

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Hey folks, new to the forum, having trouble with my new to me 2003 6.0. I’ve been lurking around trying to find the issue on here but haven’t had luck.

Ive got a 2003 6.0 in a F250 with 208,000 miles. I’ve got no power before getting to 2500 rpm.
The motor is stock with no mods but it did come with an SCT tuner. Once I get passed 2500 rpm it’s got plenty of power but blows a lot of black smoke. It starts fine and idles alright. No white residue by degas cap.

Things I’ve tried:
removed the egr valve and cleaned, cleaned out port, replaced orings. It actually was pretty clean Compared to what I’ve seen online.

inspected the air filter, and even removed for a short period to see if there was a change.

inspected the map hose for cracks/leaks.

reset tune to factory, then “street”. No change. Set tune to performance, which helped slightly with low end power, but now blows black smoke during any acceleration.

Boost according to the sct is -1.5 or so during idle and gets up around 5 psi at 3000 rpm.

no codes are being shown.


What do I need to do next?
Thanks in advance!
You might want to check the engine oil filter and make sure you have a Ford Motorcraft filter. If someone put in an after market filter. Fram, STP or something else. They come with an adapter that must be used on a 6.0. if not. The flow volume to the turbo is very restricted and slow to operate the VGT. That is a lesson I learned the hard way. Baptism by fire.Worth a look.
 

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Hey folks, new to the forum, having trouble with my new to me 2003 6.0. I’ve been lurking around trying to find the issue on here but haven’t had luck.

Ive got a 2003 6.0 in a F250 with 208,000 miles. I’ve got no power before getting to 2500 rpm.
The motor is stock with no mods but it did come with an SCT tuner. Once I get passed 2500 rpm it’s got plenty of power but blows a lot of black smoke. It starts fine and idles alright. No white residue by degas cap.

Things I’ve tried:
removed the egr valve and cleaned, cleaned out port, replaced orings. It actually was pretty clean Compared to what I’ve seen online.

inspected the air filter, and even removed for a short period to see if there was a change.

inspected the map hose for cracks/leaks.

reset tune to factory, then “street”. No change. Set tune to performance, which helped slightly with low end power, but now blows black smoke during any acceleration.

Boost according to the sct is -1.5 or so during idle and gets up around 5 psi at 3000 rpm.

no codes are being shown.


What do I need to do next?
Thanks in advance!
Your turbo should be putting at least 20LBS of boost at 3000rpm. Also your injectors are staying open after 1000rpm. Your electronic computer module needs to be flashed.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
So another update, I swapped out the vgt solenoid. It made a pretty big difference, but didn’t solve the issue. I made it up to about 22-23 psi boost at around 3000rpm, and it was a little quicker to get up to boost. Boost at all rpm ranges was better, though still a negative number at idle. At least I can pull out onto the road in under 8 seconds now. While changing the vgt solenoid I had another look at the hot air cac boots but they seemed to look fine. No visible cracks.
I know I still do have a hole on the cold side cac pipe, and the replacement part should be here to swap tomorrow.

will update again after the swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Your turbo should be putting at least 20LBS of boost at 3000rpm. Also your injectors are staying open after 1000rpm. Your electronic computer module needs to be flashed.
I don’t know what that means or how to do that. Sorry, I ate lead paint chips as a kid and am a little slow at times.
 

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Did a little checking, reading negative at idle is normal.

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