I am no speed typist so I will keep this SHORT. Recently, my ebpv starting drooling oil and since I wanted to"disarm" it I scratched my head for awhile one evening thinking of a way to plug it. I needed to plug off the hole for the armiture so I used a fine thread 7/16 nut and bolt with "felt" washers.With that clamping force it will not leak again in my lifetime.My big concern was the oil that would continously come out of the small hole (in the bottom of the chamber from the pressurized inlet). This constant stream of oil that runs down to the end of the chamber to the drain line would ALWAYS lower the pressure of the oil going to my turbo bearing-thats why I didn't like the "gut it and plug the armiture hole" method. It needed more mods. So here is how you plug the inlet hole coming into the chamber and at the same time plug the hole leading to the pcm controlled switch AND stop ANY OIL FROM ENTERING THE CHAMBER. If you take a 1 3/4 inch freeze plug and seat it in the chamber approximately a half inch from the entrance it will seal off these holes so you will have full flow to the turbo bearing all of the time.you also can leave the solenoid plugged in and not get any codes come up.With both holes plugged oil can not flow backwards out of the solenoid (taking away from the bearing lubrication) when it is activated. That happens when you only plug the small hole that puts oil in the chamber and not plug the small rectangular hole leading to solenoid. My method costs practically nothing and probably could be done without removing the pedestal from motor. I didn't try it that way because I had already removed the pedestal. BTW, if you sink the freeze plug too far...relax there is lots of chamber left just add another freeze plug and drive both in. How about we call it....... the Farber mod! ROTFLMAO!!!
shaddaddi
$3.00 ebpv delete mod with no shortcomings
1 reading
I am no speed typist so I will keep this SHORT. Recently, my ebpv starting drooling oil and since I wanted to"disarm" it I scratched my head for awhile one evening thinking of a way to plug it. I needed to plug off the hole for the armiture so I used a fine thread 7/16 nut and bolt with "felt" washers.With that clamping force it will not leak again in my lifetime.My big concern was the oil that would continously come out of the small hole (in the bottom of the chamber from the pressurized inlet). This constant stream of oil that runs down to the end of the chamber to the drain line would ALWAYS lower the pressure of the oil going to my turbo bearing-thats why I didn't like the "gut it and plug the armiture hole" method. It needed more mods. So here is how you plug the inlet hole coming into the chamber and at the same time plug the hole leading to the pcm controlled switch AND stop ANY OIL FROM ENTERING THE CHAMBER. If you take a 1 3/4 inch freeze plug and seat it in the chamber approximately a half inch from the entrance it will seal off these holes so you will have full flow to the turbo bearing all of the time.you also can leave the solenoid plugged in and not get any codes come up.With both holes plugged oil can not flow backwards out of the solenoid (taking away from the bearing lubrication) when it is activated. That happens when you only plug the small hole that puts oil in the chamber and not plug the small rectangular hole leading to solenoid. My method costs practically nothing and probably could be done without removing the pedestal from motor. I didn't try it that way because I had already removed the pedestal. BTW, if you sink the freeze plug too far...relax there is lots of chamber left just add another freeze plug and drive both in. How about we call it....... the Farber mod! ROTFLMAO!!!
Attachments
Well Farber, I 'll give you credit for creativity and home-spun engineering.
I get the idea you don't always do things the way everyone else does!
I too have gone the "extra mile" on a mod I wasn't quite comfortable with. On this one, I am not sure what mechanical reliability or durability advantage you accomplished other than not having the PCM throw a code from unplugging it. Correct me if I am wrong, but the compromised oil flow to the turbo is only if you remove the solenoid? If the solenoid is left in place and unplugged, there is no lost flow or pressure to the turbo is there???
I have had no problem, that I am aware of, by putting an NPT plug in the hole of the actuator arm, gutting the mechanism, and unplugging the solenoid.
I suppose if they start emmissions testing and OBD-II scanning diesels, the unplugged solenoid with become a "shortcoming."
Again, good job on thinking it all the way through!
God bless,
TC
I get the idea you don't always do things the way everyone else does!
I too have gone the "extra mile" on a mod I wasn't quite comfortable with. On this one, I am not sure what mechanical reliability or durability advantage you accomplished other than not having the PCM throw a code from unplugging it. Correct me if I am wrong, but the compromised oil flow to the turbo is only if you remove the solenoid? If the solenoid is left in place and unplugged, there is no lost flow or pressure to the turbo is there???
I have had no problem, that I am aware of, by putting an NPT plug in the hole of the actuator arm, gutting the mechanism, and unplugging the solenoid.
I suppose if they start emmissions testing and OBD-II scanning diesels, the unplugged solenoid with become a "shortcoming."
Again, good job on thinking it all the way through!
God bless,
TC
Tim thanks for the response!I have read that some have gotten a code for it being unplugged and some haven't.I was covering all bases.There is a small port that is unregulated in the bottom of the chamber that I was concerned with pouring all the time.
Mantain had a good video on how to gut it out. I hear ya on the oil leak, we did it to my buddy's truck because his had a good leak. It's puddle free now.
Well been a few months & still leak free. Everyone else does it the same way as well. Could you post detailed pics of your setup?
Cat,
I believe the difference in Farber's method is using a large freeze plug to cover oil passages in the gutted chamber to stop a continuous flow of oil that will be flowing IF you remove the solenoid completely and/or leave it connected to the PCM.
A) If you leave the solenoid in place and unplug it, there should never be any oil entering the chamber to bleed out, though you risk throwing a code for inoperable EBPV. (I only see a code when I do a KOER test. It never throws a fault code or trips the light.)
B) If you leave the electrical connection to the solenoid and gut the chamber, then when the PCM calls for the backpressure valve to be actuated, pressurize oil would be allowed into the chamber and bleed directly, possibly dropping oil pressure to the turbo bearings (bushings).
Am I reading you right Farber???
TC
I believe the difference in Farber's method is using a large freeze plug to cover oil passages in the gutted chamber to stop a continuous flow of oil that will be flowing IF you remove the solenoid completely and/or leave it connected to the PCM.
A) If you leave the solenoid in place and unplug it, there should never be any oil entering the chamber to bleed out, though you risk throwing a code for inoperable EBPV. (I only see a code when I do a KOER test. It never throws a fault code or trips the light.)
B) If you leave the electrical connection to the solenoid and gut the chamber, then when the PCM calls for the backpressure valve to be actuated, pressurize oil would be allowed into the chamber and bleed directly, possibly dropping oil pressure to the turbo bearings (bushings).
Am I reading you right Farber???
TC
you can drill and tap both the little holes to i believe, 10-32 and 1/4-20, cut the cap in half and tig it in and it's done. won't ever leak again. the set screws were loctited, then epoxyed in. cost nothing to do if you already have the stuff laying around.
Tim, you were following me exactly. The idea is for anyone inthe FUTURE who wishes to disarm the ebpv completely with no concerns about oil restrictions,no cutting, tapping, tigging, thread lock in ports, no codes to look up, no foolers, and is quite reversible. Maybe 2 minutes to tighten a bolt and tap a freeze plug in and possibly without removing the pedestal. The only picture I took was of the f. plug installed, sorry. BTW, I got ALOT of stuff laying around, but like many people, a tig is not one of them. Pretty welds though!!
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
