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2006 6.0 check engine light and wrench light

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37K views 16 replies 9 participants last post by  JoeD  
#1 ·
On the highway towing 24' enclosed with a car. Going 65-70 the check engine light comes on. No biggie still driving fine. After i leave the shop i get back on the highway. Now the wrench light comes on. I lose power. Only revs to 2200rpms, only boosts to 20lbs, and will not downshift. Limp the truck home. Decide to restart truck while driving down my road and wrench light goes away and low end power comes back. I checked codes with the SCT and nothing showed up. I'll have to go to my buddies shop in the morning and use his snap on scanner.

What is wrong with the truck?

Truck is tuned to stock, has blue spring mod, 5" exhaust, and a lift with tires. I flushed coolant to ELC a couple months ago. Delta's were 2-3 degrees apart when i flushed coolant. Truck has 57k miles. Has had a easy life. Fuel filters every 15k and transmission flush every 30k. Any suggestions? Truck does not smoke either. Thanks.
 
#2 ·
The oil cooler is plugged up, what is happening is the PCM sees more than 15 degrees differential temperatures for extended time periods between the oil cooler and coolant temperature.
The later flashes from Ford will go into defueling when oil cooler temps are above safe range so you don't blow out the egr cooler causing a head gasket failure.

You will need to replace the oil cooler and you should also replace the egr cooler. I am sure it has been heat stressed because of the reduced cooling water because the oil cooler is plugged.
Water comes from waterpump straight to oil cooler then to the egr cooler then back throgh block to radiator, when the oil cooler plugs up it reduces the volume of water for the egr cooler and causes it to overheat and crack (rupture).
 
#7 ·
Sounds like the issue . My dads truck did the same thing, it was exactly what mark mentioned.

He knows what he's talking About

And ps my dads truck ran great , never puked or smoke either.
 
#3 ·
How are you sure it's the oil cooler? What codes would it throw if it was? The codes i got today from the Snap on scanner were P0299 (turbo underboost) and p0234 (turbo overboost). It doesn't smoke, hasn't puked, doesn't use any coolant. i cleared the light and it's been fine driving. I guess i'll put the scanner back on it and check deltas.
 
#4 ·
I think 2005 up the flash is that way, as soon as it cools off the check engine clears.

Yea put some gauges on it and go for a ride, sure sounds like what's going on to me.
 
#5 ·
The check engine light and codes didn't clear on its own, i cleared it. I towed car over to the shop and it was awesome. No issues. I'll put her on the scanner and see whats up with those PIDs.
 
#6 ·
Forgot to mention that boost was fluctuating between 25-28 lbs today when i went WOT. Not sure if that's normal or not.
 
#8 ·
Went on the highway and did some WOT runs. Eot Ect never seperated more than 7 degrees. Was 3-4° driving around 40ish mph. VGT % went from 18% to 80% never stayed at either level.
 
#10 ·
If i clean the turbo while its out and do the sinister egr delete, the oil cooler shouldn't be a problem ever. I don't think at least. 3-4° and 7 degrees at wot is normal i would say. I've read bad oil coolers have a delta difference of 30-40°.
 
#11 ·
My 06 F250 has an oil cooler that is plugged. My oil temp is running 238degrees(F) and my coolant is 187 degrees (F). This is with an RCD egr delete. Im getting ready to pull it down for oil cooler replacement. Also remember, you want to drive your truck 15 to 20 minutes before checking these deltas. It can take this long for your oil to reach these temps. If you have less than 10degrees difference after 20 minutes of medium to hard driveing, I would say that your oil cooler is good to go.
 
#12 ·
^^That is correct^^
Drive the truck for at least 30 minutes down the highway on level ground at 65-70 mph and see what the ECT and EOT temps are, if you are greater then 15 degrees you have a problem.

Now if you think you have something going on with the turbo or the boost the first place you want to look would be the EBP sensor. It is located on the drivers side at valve cover height and is connected to a stainless steel tubing that goes into the exhaust manifold.
Pull the tubing out of manifold and run a wire through it and then blow out with compressed air, then reinstall.
It is what the PCM uses to control the VGT at the turbo.

The oil cooler comes up as a soft code when above 15 degrees for extended periods, take a drive to rule out the oil cooler.
 
#14 ·
Bump...
Help- I've got almost the same situation ... 2006 F350 4x 6.0L turbo diesel, 82k miles, maintained... Hauling a 20' enclosed car carrier with a MINI Cooper in it, plus some lumber. Am traveling from middle TN to Maine. Have two teenagers & elderly dog in cab with me...

About Âľ of the way through the first leg, and 20 miles after we stopped to refuel (which caught me off guard, as it's burning MUCH more fuel than usual), the engine light comes on. Get an inconsistent engine rev around 2300 RPM, which coincides with turbo scream (close to redline on turbo tach)
Limp into Roanoke...
Will go to dealership in AM to see if it's throwing a code, but is there anything y'all can tell me, in layman's terms? I don't want to walk into dealership & have them see "girl with kids" and get taken.
Thanks in advance!
 
#15 ·
Now the wrench light comes on. I lose power. Only revs to 2200rpms, only

Are you getting code P0115A?
 
#16 ·
I never got that code but it's for a coolant temp sensor malfunction. I need to clean my turbo again or replace it.
 
#17 ·
I have a 6.0 2006 F250. I have (3) issues on my mind here.

1st Check engine light came on about 3-4 days ago. I took it to my buddy house to connect with his computer. The codes told us that it was a FICM issue. My friend explaining if the truck doesn't have a issue starting right away, it does not need to be replaced ASAP.

We ended up restarting the code, engine light was off, and now is currently on again.

2nd, I was driving yesterday and noticed a wrench tool light on the dash following an ABS light as well.

I didn't feel anything different in till I felt the truck jerking at a steady speed of 65 mph. Then the speed board quit. The speed, psi, fuel, everything shut down on my dash. Then came back on later. I was loosing power it seemed like....

Any body know whats going on?

Could the 3 indications be related? Engine light,ABS,and tool wrench?

I could use some advice on witch I should take.

Thanks,

-Joe