What setting on your tuner are you set at? I've noticed some simualer(excuse spelling) issues with My truck if at low speed and rough terrain if in the upper settings as the fuel ramp is very steep at those settings. I usually tune down to stock setting under these conditions to lessen the fuel ramp. This does away with the bucking issues.

 

stupid question did you check the powersteering fluid level?(<also the brake booster) and when you let off the gas at slow speeds are you still in a low gear and high rpms?? sorry if this is a stupid assumption but it sounds like youre truck is just slowin itself down.

in my truck at slow speed in a low gear high rpms if i let off the clutch the engine slows itself down sometimes will cause like a lurching or feel like the brakes are bein pressed....

 

if your in your 120 or 140 tunes thats normal, there is alot of fuel on the bottom so its hard to be smooth, usually if im somewhere that I need to kinda go slow or something I will bump it down to the 80E...but I usually drive in the 80 anyways.

 

sorry when i let off the gas at low speeds high rpms without using the clutch my truck will lurch a little bit as the engine slows it self... thats what i was tryin to say.

 

Even my '95 F150 handhsakin' gasser does this... running un-tuned at an incedible 125 HP :doh: and 200 ft-lbs... :ford:

 

Its the banks garbage

 

yeah if i match the engine speed right it wont do it.

 

You may want to look at the TPS ...

Heres a test with a meter...

You need to put a voltmeter across the GY/W and the GY/R wires on the connector to the TPS. With the key on, watch the voltage across the range of the throttle to see if there is any flat spots. You should see no less than .37 volts at idle position and no more than 4.5 volts at full throttle. The the third wire, (BRN/W), is the ref. voltage and should be 5 volts all the time.

 

This is perfectly normal behavior. That's a big engine with some tall gears. When you let off the skinny peddle in low gears it should want to throw you forward towards the steering wheel.

How many manual transmission trucks have you driven? Everyone I've ever had (this would be my fifth) has done this whether it was gas, diesel, v8 or v6. It's just the nature of the beast. That motor wants to slow down, and it wants to drag the drive wheels down with it.

 

:whs: thats what i was tryin to say... well put.

 

I agree with above--just normal engine breaking if you don't engage the clutch. How long have you had the truck and is this a new occurrence with the truck. If you have worn out engine and transfer case mounts, and other worn items in the system, this may propogate the driveline shift from drive to cost as well...

 

Also my brake idiot light is on and a alarm sounds when I start driving then stops after a while. Fluid level is OK cant find anything wrong with it and the brakes work good.

Pull up on your parking brake pedal.

 

If that fixes it, spray all the pivot points with WD-40. And spray all the places that you can see a cable. After that, set and release the parking brake 3,187 times.

 

Yeah my parking brake is broken. I pressed it down all the way and then i heard a noise and it went all the way to the floor. I thought I broke the cable but I cant see any were it is broken. The cable goes under a protective sheath and I might be broken under there. But maybe its is still engaged somehow because my pedal goes up and down with no load. Also my truck cant boost over 10 lbs. Should it boost more?

 

Those things tend to break right where the cable meets the curved underside of the break pedal. The end of the cable has a sort of bar made onto it. It's right at this bar that the cable tends to break.

In any event, the brake release spring is inside the brake drum, so if the cable breaks it will automatically fully release.