id start by finding out what codes your throwing first... in my pervious experiences it kinda sounds like your cps is ####ting the bed

 

I was wondering if the CPS might have anything to do with it. I'll have to see if I can even read the codes first though, if any are stored. The only warning light that's been on since I bought the truck is the airbag light(due to PADS, even though I don't have one) so I never checked for DTCs.

 

I had the same thing happen to my 2000 7.3, I found it to be the wiring harness plug that operates the injectors and glow plugs on the passenger side of the engine where it plugs into under valve cover gasket. It was very easy to spot as it was missing plastic coating on wires. I read up on it and found that it was a common problem with the 7.3.
I found a replacement harness plug that I soldered in place to repair it.
John


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Finally got the truck to recreate the symptoms. Started up the truck(cold start) and let it idle for awhile. Idled smooth until it warmed up to the bottom of the Normal Range. CEL turned on and shaking returned. Let it idle like that for 10min while I looked for my scanner. No change. Hooked up Torque scanner, scanned for codes, truck died and no codes stored...

Is there anyone in the ABQ area that has AE, or any other capable scanner, that would be willing to scan my truck?

I had the same thing happen to my 2000 7.3, I found it to be the wiring harness plug that operates the injectors and glow plugs on the passenger side of the engine where it plugs into under valve cover gasket. It was very easy to spot as it was missing plastic coating on wires. I read up on it and found that it was a common problem with the 7.3.
I found a replacement harness plug that I soldered in place to repair it.
John

Where did you get the replacement harness plug, and how was it's quality?
I looked up the $0.50 mod you mentioned, and decided to definitely do this after I figure out the problem. Thanks John

 

Under valve cover gasket, look up 50 cent mod , it may be loosing connection at valve cover plug. If you can get trouble code and google it to get more possibilities
John


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Sound like the plugs on the valve cover harnesses to me as well. Either outside or under the covers. Check those first. Sounds like something doesnt have a good connection. Usually when the cps goes, it just goes. Mine didnt shake but threw the light and just cut off a few times, went and picked up a new cps and hasn't done it since. But I have a spare now if I need it.

 

I got the replacement plug off the Amazon site for 7.00 and some change, the quality was good. I saw a lot of them in different places on the Internet but it seems they where about 15 bucks if I recall correctly. It was a lot better than replacing the whole harness from Ford for around $900.
I think you will find it to be bad harness, bad under valve cover gasket or connection in the area of the valve cover on one side or the other.
When it does it you can take a heat reading on the manifolds and tell which side is working an the side that is not. I was able to tell because of my pyro gauge, it has a sensor on left side manifold and the reading was very high temp. Which meant that side worked and the other probably did not. So I checked right side first and found the bad harness connector.
John
John


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I wasn't able to borrow a scanner capable of reading the PSD DTC's so I checked the resistance at the valve cover connectors.
Here's what I found:

Values are in front to back order
LH RH
2.0 1.9
1.8 184.9
3.2 4.1
3.1 4.6
3.0 4.4
3.0 4.1
1.8 2.0
1.9 2.0

So obviously I had a bad glow plug. But the fact that the rest of the values are close and within spec leads me to believe the problem isn't necessarily in the UVCH. The LH connector, harness side, has some wiring showing on the 2nd glow plug wire...

Batteries are at 12.65V so I don't think it's related to insufficient voltage. From the batteries at least.

I pulled the ICP connector, it had some oil in it:

I'm not sure if this much oil indicates a bad sensor. Hopefully you guys can fill me in there.

I also found a loose wire in the wiring behind the fuel bowl. I'm not sure what it goes to, as there aren't any wires missing an end. Hopefully you guys can help me there as well:
You can see the bare terminal in the right side of this pic

The wire pulled right out, and looks like it melted at some point


Again, any help is appreciated!!

-Nick

 

That wire looks like the one that goes to the intake air heater. I just pulled my CPS to check it the other day and it looked the same, Knock on wood I havent had an issue yet but I'm ordering a new one soon. Really need to see what those codes are.

 

I still haven't had access to a capable scan tool, so I don't have any update on the dtc(s).
I started up my truck this morning, ran rough on startup long enough for me to feel my exhaust manifolds...idle smoothed out as I touched the pass. manifold. Let it warm up, and the CEL hasn't come on and hasn't idled rough so far.

I hooked up the Torque app to look at the HPOP and IPR dc at idle:
HPOP fluctuates between 469-500psi
Ipr is 10.5-10.9%

Are the numbers within the acceptable range?

 

Took the truck for a quick 2 mile drive, it ran fine. The only problem I noticed was the speedometer kicked up from ~35mph to 75mph when I let off the throttle to turn. It's probably just because I haven't driven it in a few days but I hope it's not something else I need to replace...

 

Update:
Truck didn't act up for awhile until today. I was cruising 65mph on the freeway, someone cut me off and I hit the coast button. SES light came on instantly and the truck started running on 4 cylinders again. I'm gonna go ahead and order AE, new GPs, and UVCHs later this week.

 

I can help you a bit....
ICP should be 479-485 (higher is ok)once oil reaches 165* degrees.
Duty cycle 7-8.5%.

You need to first buy some Power Service fuel additive. You may have been gelling (fuel).

Replace your ICP sensor with a new FORD sensor. Oil leaching is bad. Will cause all sorts of driveability issues including misses, truck shudder, shutting off. $145 from DieselOrings .

Speed Sensor in rear axle may be going out also. It usually throws a abs or transmission code (o/d light flashing) but not always. $ 27 at dealership. ....peace of mind if nothing else.

If your at 10% duty cycle idling at operating temp your hpop will need to go. But IPR can cause issues (rare).

 

I was tired when I posted, and just realized I mixed up some info.

I ordered new GPs, ICP, and fuel filter earlier this month. I was waiting to order the VCGs and UVCHs until I had the cash - dont really want to pull the VCs twice.

I don't know if it's related, but when I was waiting for the tow truck yesterday I had the truck idling and was checking connections on the engine. I pulled the ICP connector and the idle got worse. Plugged it back in and no change, still worse than before. VC connectors seemed ok, but it wouldn't surprise me if one of the UVCHs is loose. Also, I noticed fuel dripping from the line to the fuel bowl. Is that line supposed to be a hard line? Mine is a hard line
up to about 8" from the fuel bowl, someone put a section of rubber fuel line and hose clamps and thats where it's leaking.

I'm going to replace the ICP, and get some Power Service and see if that helps. I'll recheck the IPR duty cycle and HPOP pressure.
So you're saying my HPOP might be on it's way out?

 

Hey there NQF350. I'm local here in Albq. I'm having truck issues too and just got my AE in a couple days ago. If you're still down n out, I'd be glad to help. I've done pretty much everything you're doing and about to change my IPR to see if that's my issue. PM me if you need anything

 

How did you fix it have this same thing for my 2000 7.3