post deleted

 

What?

 

Can you do an injector solenoid test with whatever scan tool you have? Also do you happen to know what brand the icp and ipr are? I have seen cheap non-motorcraft parts do stuff like that.

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk

 

I know for a fact that IPR is aftermarket and probably the ICP as well! I also dont know if the torque app with do that or not? Thats what im running right now! Basically it sounds like its a loped tune! Only after i take it two miles down the road, can start it up and no issues at all and idle sound is normal! Only when i begin to take it on a drive! Sorry for the late reply! @Cummins Junkie

 

I can't recall, but probably mis-read something the first time through your post. Decided to wait 'til you responded to the questions in post #3.

ForScan will do an injector "buzz test". I do not think that Torque pro can, but you might research that.

Sounds like injector stiction. A oil additive (Archoil AR9100) might help some, but then again you might need new injectors. Could also be an issue with the logic board on your FICM.

How old are your injectors and how many miles on them?

You really need to stick with OEM sensors and actuators as @Cummins Junkie stated!

Did you scan for codes with the Torque Pro?

 

I know im torn between both and i feel like they may have been replaced somewhere between 125k-150k but im not really sure and the previous owner didnt know either because it was the guy before him! There is a sticker on the back of the truck that says "Industrial Injection" so i would be lead to believe that its aftermarket injectors! So now even if 1 or 2 was bad i cant just throw a stock one in and call it a day i would have to do ALL EIGHT OF THEM. Kinda sucks.

Im all for OEM! Im getting a cylinder 5 contribution and when i cleared and drove it again a cylinder 7 contribution came and no 5! WEIRD! Also getting a compatibility code (U0****) Something like that! So injector stiction wouldbe fine upon idle but then 2 miles down the road it starts bouncing? Sounding like a loped tune?

Previous owner did say that theres a tow tune on it! I since then have unplugged the batteries and i dont know if that wipes it or not? He said it wasnt done with like a LIVE or SCT, something about it being an open source?

It does puff a white smoke cloud upon start up and then goes away after 2 seconds! Its also DOES NOT blow any black smoke or white while driving if i step on it either!


THank you for replying i was fixing to just let it sit until i have 3k to dump into new injectors! Still not fully convinced that is fully the problem either though!

 

Also, I assume you have a late 04 with the ICP sensor on the passenger valve cover?

Can you try running it with the ICP sensor unplugged? Probably won't help, but it is a free test.

 

Yes i did unplug the sensor and i could feel where the sensor switched over to default! I almost thought it fixed the issue when i troubleshooted that and it almost did until i realized it just took 5 miles to cause the issue all over again instead of 2 miles lol

Yes late 04!

 

I THOUGHT you were "04 6.0" over on the TDS forum. I answered your questions over there and felt like you left a bunch of my suggestions unaddressed. Maybe not ..... I guess I will have to re-read that thread.

Based on everything over there I am now guessing at Injector Stiction.

 

I looked back on the thread and I couldn't see that you did anything regarding the P0112 code.

Maybe you did and just didn't post it. Nope, don;t see any response on it.

You notice that @Cummins Junkie alsdo stated to use OEM sensors.

I hate to tell you again to buy an OEM ICP and IPR, but the aftermarket parts just might be the issue. Then again, they might not be. No way to tell but to replace them. Your call!

I also stated that you need good fuel pressure. Have you checked into that? I assume the fuel tank level is good? Please post what the tank level is.

 

I looked back on the thread and I couldn't see that you did anything regarding the P0112 code.

Maybe you did and just didn't post it.

Yes!! Switching from my Ipad to my phone something must have happened but i did see that, I couldnt find on my Torque app on how to monitor that! I dont know if it was listed as something else or what! The code also went away which was weird!

Do you have any recommendations on the best stiction formula? How much do i buy cause it was confusing on the Web! Before or after oil change??

 

I did check the Intake sensor, not the one in the valley but the one i can see and tugged on the wires and it looked good! Didnt get to read it yet when i wiggle cause i couldnt find the reading

 

Wish i could send you the video of how it was running @bismic1

 

Uhmm - I posted how you can get cheaper prices over on TDS:

For example - the 04.5 ICP sensor is part number 4C3Z-9F838-A and it lists for $167.15. The On-Line dealership "AutoNation White Bear Lake" has it for $120.35. You can probably get it locally through FordParts.com for that AND save the shipping. The lowest I have seen for it is around $113.

The IPR valve is part # 3C3Z-9C968-AA. It lists for $314.65. Should be able to get it for around $210.

One thing you can do is monitor ICP pressure, ICP sensor volts, IPR % duty cycle, and ICP desired. When the engine performance starts acting up, maybe you can see fluctuations in SOME of those PIDs.

I also advised you to wiggle wires and see if you could MAKE IT act up.

After all, you did say that running it with an unplugged ICP sensor did seem to help at first. That was the first indication of an improvement that you posted.

 

I pulled the IAT sensor, it was dirty so I cleaned it with brake cleaner! Waited until it fully dried and then put it back in, I also bought some hot shot stiction stuff from advanced while I was getting brake cleaner! Treats 11 quarts!

so then I decided to go for a drive and for all about 5 minutes it was beautiful! Nice shifts and great power! Then I turned around and it wasn’t really doing anything bad until I pulled back into the driveway and same issue all over again! I was also pulling up the hill and HUGE LACK OF POWER!

Back to the sensor, Pulled it off while it was running and it didn’t run good, my sensor was reading and craxy number like 65,462 when it was 82!

I also pulled ICP while it was running and it made it run worse as well! If I need to post a vid of the unplug of IAT I can!

Would my FICM cause this?!? Now I’m not 100% that I had the volt meter on correctly but I did see 47.5 volts without key on! Didn’t get cranking yet! Kids are asleep andthis Truck wakes up the whole house!

 

Yes!! I remember now!! Ive been through so many threads man its hard to keep up with my own! I honestly wish that the problem arised at idle too or it was like that constantly! The fact that it doesnt do it until after a drive is whats stumping me!

 

That isn't terribly bad. Find a way to check fuel pressure and try some Archoil AR9100. You can check out the things I mentioned above while waiting on the parts to install a fuel pressure gauge and for the AR9100 delivery.

 

Brake cleaner is notorious for damaging sensors.

On IAT1 you need to use only an electronics cleaner. Sounds like you need a new sensor.

Your engine holds 18 quarts of oil btw (Navistar even states 19 IIRC). So you need more Hot Shots. Don't over fill the crankcase. I did not suggest Hot Shots because you have to drain oil out to make room for all of it. I don't like that.

Sure sounds like a harness issue. Hard to find them unless a code points the way.

Electrical issues take methodical troubleshooting and even then sometimes people have to start taking apart harnesses. Hopefully someone else can keep you going, or ultimately some repairs require a shop. I think my ideas/suggestion bank is empty.

 

Should be 14/15 quart oil capacity on the 6.0

 

14/15 qts is the drain-and-fill capacity. The entire volume of oil in the engine is apprx. 18 quarts. That is stated in the manuals if you have them.

If you are treating the oil for the first time you need to add enough for the ENTIRE volume since it is a well mixed system. After that you can treat it for the drain-and-fill amount.

 

14/15 qts is the fill capacity. The entire volume of oil in the engine is apprx. 18 quarts. That is stated in the manuals if you have them.

If you are treating the oil for the first time you need to add enough for the ENTIRE volume since it is a well mixed system. After that you can treat it for the drain-and-fill amount.

Good to know!!! Guess ill get another bottle! Seemed to help a little at first but then it did the issue all over again! I guess im just gonna start troubleshooting! Going to test the FICM tonight and double check voltage to clear that out too! If thats good then im leaning towards an injector and if thats the case then im just going to take to dealer!

 

@bismic1

 

EBP's have been know to cause miscellaneous issues because of electrical shorts and the impact on v-reference voltage.

 

@bismic1 Hey man I dropped the issue for a couple weeks, here’s what I noticed!

went out to try and crank and nothing! First off it was dead for whatever reason, then got the batteries back up to normal and it would crank and crank and crank!
I also had a code for crankshaft circuit open. Wiggled the wiring harnass around multiple times and BOOM went to running again! I think I have found the issue and it would make sense since the guy popped 500psi of oil all over everything! What you think? Fordparts.com sell good ones you think? And should I be worried about which harnass since I’m a late 04 model?

 

Although I will say due to further testing that I revved it up to maybe like 3500 rpm and let it drop back down and now it’s doing that loping sound out of the exhaust, wiggled wires around while it did it and no change? Hmm….

 

P0673-p0678 so 5 glow plugs are coming up as codes as well!

 

It could be that much of the engine harness is bad from age and heat, or it could simply be at one connector. It would be worth identifying it since the engine harness is very expensive.

Sounds like the EBP connector and wiring might be a place to start as mentioned earlier. You may need to peel back insulation to find a wiring issue. Also the wiring that runs above the turbo can sometimes be an issue if the plastic tray is bad and does not keep the wires far enough away from the turbo heat.

EBP connector part number - 5C3Z-12224-A

I don't know why you would have oil on the TPS connector. Are you sure it was the TPS connector?

There are more "common" areas for wiring failure and chafing. I'll post some more potential chafe locations a little later.

Lots of people seem to ignore glow plug issues, but they can impact starting as well. You could have individual plug issues or you could have a GPCM issue, or both.

 

I’m not entirely sure that it was on the TPS sensor but it’s a code that popped up! Read on it for a little bit and then they said try wiggling the wires so I did and that’s when it started!
I think I’m having separate issues or if it’s what causing the weird rough loping idle when I take it 2 miles down the road! Or when I stomp on it a little and it causes the same issue and doesn’t return back to normal until cooled down! I’m gonna go through that other list you gave me too! Start checking things off!
mom jyst hoping that if it is the wiring harnass that atleast I’ll know what the issue is! That way I can stop chasing my tail and drive it finally!

 

Wire Chafing Locations (Closely inspect wiring when you have injector DTCs):​

Upper left valve cover or valve cover stud near the FICM (harness).​

Left front valve cover hold down bolts/studs. Front left of intake manifold near breather tube and air inlet duct​

CKP wiring near A/C compressor and belt tensioner​

CMP wire can get pinched in between the intake manifold and the radiator hose port on the front cover.​

Idler pulley under the thermostat (wiring routed around the power steering pump). The CMP sensor wiring is in this "bundle", and a chafe here can throw a P0341 CMP electrical code. The wiring to the CMP is routed around the power steering pump.​

Exhaust Pressure (EP) sensor bracket at thermostat housing​

Right valve cover at glow plug control module (GPCM) and around the glow plug relay bracket.​

Front left of intake manifold near breather tube and air inlet duct. Under the Air Filter canister - harness chafe's on a stud when pinched by the air filter case. Corner of the valve cover. Or the intake manifold bolts where the harness routes under the air intake hose.​

Accelerator Pedal pivot point (under dash) at steering column - adjustable pedals only. Also, near the steering column, where it goes through the firewall.​

PCM harness at battery box, or at/near the PCM​

PCM harness near the relay box brackets at the left rear corner of the engine compartment.​

Check injector harnesses and FICM harness for backed out or bent pins or bad wiring​

12A581 harness (engine harness that goes across the back of the engine compartment, over the turbo, in the plastic harness tray). The plastic tray gets brittle and fails. When it does, the tray droops and the wires can get too close to the hot turbo.​

IPR harness - near rear intake stud​

Wiring to #5 injector. (3rd back passenger side) the heater hose clamp rubs through on the early built units.​

On Econolines, also inspect at the top edge of the computer, along the oil dipstick tube bracket and auxiliary A/C lines.​

Check near C145 which is near the fire wall on the drivers side, not far from the BJB. Also 14A067 (BJB) wiring, circuit 1044 (WH/YE wire) under the BJB (left rear corner of engine compartment).

 

The TPS, or throttle position sensor, is the accelerator pedal, and if you wiggled wires under the hood, that might not have affected that specific component. You would have to have been reaching close to the fire wall on the drivers side and wiggling wires there to affect the TPS I would think.

The TPS wiring issues are usually near the accelerator pedal itself, or where it goes through the firewall.

 

Ok then the one I’m referring to is where the air pipe on the driver side connects to the throttle body! The wire that connects into that is where I noticed it would have a rougher/ missing idle! But again this guy previously has had oil sitting everywhere on this motor and I’m not surprised that it would have ruined that harnass and I don’t know about just doing a patch job on every little connector that throws a code! Although in the meantime wouldn’t be a bad idea if I could reconnect it! Hopefully that being the problem solver! I feel like if that connection was going in and out that it would just be super unresponsive (which it is after warm up and a drive) or jumpy reflecting the inability to read consistent!