Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

1 - 20 of 58 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Pulled my auto out this morning and ordered a swap kit for a zf6. I’ve done some research and found a great write up on the process but doesn’t mention a few things. I noticed the swap kit didn’t come with a steering column. Does anyone know if I can just swap out the plastic cover on the column with one out of a manual truck? Or do I need an entire column out of a manual truck? I realize the manual trucks have the key “lock” tab on the columns, I’m not too worried about having that if it isn’t necessary. The swap kit also included a pcm, guy said it was out of a 99, didn’t know if it was e99 or l99, will it matter in my 01? (truck is chipped and will be retuned). It’s also coming with a wire harness for the zf6, is it plug and play or do I need to splice some wires? If so, what wires? The kit is coming with a front driveline, will I need a rear driveline? Truck is a crew cab long bed. I’m getting a little ahead of myself and I’m excited to start the swap but wanted to get some info before the trans gets here. Help is greatly appreciated, thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Trust me, I got this...
Joined
·
1,399 Posts
I have only done one auto/zf6 swap, and from what I remember, you don't need a column, you can just remove the gear stick and the gear indicator on the dash and put a manual column cover on.

E99 trucks have different injectors than l99 I think. Not 100% sure on that.

On the one I did, we did not have access to a harness, so I had to splice 2 wires on the auto harness to get it to turn over. The 2 biggest on the gear range plug. The manual harness might be just plug and play.

You might be able to use the drivelines you got, they would just be stretched out a bit more. Dont jump it.

The trans hump on manuals is way bigger too, so you might want to find one you can graft onto your cab. Or hack it up and grab the sledge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Ok thanks

I know the e99’s have different injectors, but I think I was told tuning it will run the ones I have. Not sure though

Don’t plan on jumping my dually haha, I’d be more worried about everything else before the driveshafts.

The swap came with the trans tunnel cut out of the standard truck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Is there any way to tell if the pcm is an l99 or e99 based off of the pcm code? Code is DAC2


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,238 Posts
I just looked it up. I can’t tell. But it did say 49 state cold weather.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,238 Posts
I believe the zf6 is shorter than the auto. So you will need a longer driveshaft.

Do you have a digital or mechanical odometer.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,238 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,690 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,238 Posts
What pcm code do you have now. I believe you can just tune your chip with manual tunes on your auto pcm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I’d have to check to make sure, but I think it’s nvk4, swapped it when I swapped motors with my 2000.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
When I go to pull my pcm, do I need to set the hydra to a certain setting? With my old ts6 I know I was told to set it to stock to pull the chip off, but I don’t think my hydra has a stock tune on it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,690 Posts
Likely won't matter.
00 is stock/chip bypass....

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
My factory stocker 7.3/Zf6 has had several pilot bearing failures causing replacement
of the input shaft, input shaft gear, front countershaft gear ( broken teeth) and bearings due to shaft running off center. The OEM original and 2nd needle bearings failed eating the shaft. Same for the nylon, bronze and the first ball bearing assy which the shaft spun
IN cause the new bearing was too stiff. Finally peaned and loctited a new shaft to the bearing inner race. Now have more miles on it than all the others combined. At one time I considered changing to an AUTO. fyi
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
680, thanks for the info. My original plan was to go with a sam wyse unit, but it was a little out of budget, especially when shipping from Ohio to New Mexico got mixed into the equation. I found a great deal on everything I need to do the swap so I decided to go this route. Hopefully I won’t run into problems like you have.

Everything should be here by the end of the month, so hopefully I can have the truck back up by the first weekend of December. New flywheel, stage 2 south bend clutch, updated clutch fork, and the manual steering column are here and waiting to be installed. The only problem I’m running into is gearhead won’t reburn my hydra, so I’ll be looking for a new tuner. I’ve read a couple other write up’s of guys doing this swap, and some say the cclb rear driveline works, and some say it doesn’t so we’ll see when everything gets here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,690 Posts
What do you mean? Gearhead won't make tunes for the hydra?
You load it yourself.
Talk to 1023.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 58 Posts
Top