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Discussion Starter #1
Where have you guys bought your prebled clutch setups? I'm having issues disengaging my clutch, I have to push the clutch all the way to the floor. I am getting some flex in my firewall but I have rebuilt my clutch pedal assembly and installed the ebay eye bearing fix for the master. I still have to push the pedal to the floor to shift into first.
 

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RockAuto.

Test - have an assistant work the pedal, an slither under the truck with a ruler or tape measure. Measure the distance the end of the fork moves as your assistant runs the pedal all the way down. It should be about 1/2" - 9/16". If it's less, then it's either the hydros, or the flexing firewall. If it's at least that, all that "upstream" stuff is good, and either the fork is bent, or the pressure plate fingers are weak, or some such, and it's pull-the-tranny time.

Firewall flex was supposed to have been fixed pre-PSD, somewhere around '93. Might wanna peel back some of that space-blanket stuff and look around for cracks....
 

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BrokeAss
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Firewall flex was supposed to be fixed after the brick, starting with the obs in 92 they got a whole redesign to the pedal assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good call on the measuring of the travel. I know the firewall issue was supposed to be fixed but it still flexes a bit even with all of my new bushings. The clutch and pressure plate were supposedly replaced right before I got the truck(receipt for the clutch was in the glove box). I'm going to have to pull the transmission anyway to put in the used zf5 I have so I'll check the travel and go from there.
 

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One Stroke @ a Time
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On Dad's 94 the master was actually moving in the firewall after I rebuilt the pedals and installed a bearing end on it. So when installing the new master I actually strapped it to the firewall and didn't rely on just that little c clip to hold it in. Honestly the clutch didn't feel that good when it was new! Just food for thought, it may look like firewall flex from the inside, and actually be the master moving in the firewall... Good luck
 

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I had the same trouble with mine a few weeks ago. It will actually move on the nut that attaches the pedal to the master.
You might not even need a new master just need to adjust it.

I have a good one at my house that is working well I will sell you for cheap if yours is broke
 

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Hmm, at least by '95, the MC is held on by two studs on the firewall with nuts.
:blah::blah::blah:

That's correct it is 2 studs though the firewall. But the studs only hold a stamped steel plate that slides over the master from the interior side and is held in place by a metal snap ring or c clip, its not made to it. The problem is that after many years of pedal in and out the stamped steel plate gets and stretched and allows the snap ring (aka the whole cylinder)to move in and back without the master cylinder being actuated during that part of the stroke. That's the reason for the strapping.
 

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:blah::blah::blah:

That's correct it is 2 studs though the firewall. But the studs only hold a stamped steel plate that slides over the master from the interior side and is held in place by a metal snap ring or c clip, its not made to it. The problem is that after many years of pedal in and out the stamped steel plate gets and stretched and allows the snap ring (aka the whole cylinder)to move in and back without the master cylinder being actuated during that part of the stroke. That's the reason for the strapping.
Yes, same thing that happened to mine
 

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:blah::blah::blah:

That's correct it is 2 studs though the firewall. But the studs only hold a stamped steel plate that slides over the master from the interior side and is held in place by a metal snap ring or c clip, its not made to it. The problem is that after many years of pedal in and out the stamped steel plate gets and stretched and allows the snap ring (aka the whole cylinder)to move in and back without the master cylinder being actuated during that part of the stroke. That's the reason for the strapping.
Wow, that's so.... Ford. Next million-dollar aftermarket fab invention idea: bigeffin stiff (cast aluminum?) flange plate that bolts THROUGH the firewall and provides a mounting point for the master. (Oh, but is there room?....)
 

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The problem isn't the mounting point or the studs. Its that the body of the master cylinder is plastic. There is only a snap ring that rides in a grove in plastic that hold the entire force of depressing the clutch. It really needs a metal bodied master. You could fab a bracket that would go around the hydraulic line on the engine side that would bolt back to the mounting studs and take the load of the snap ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I appreciate all of the tips, I will definitely check into all of the suggestion. I came home on leave, jumped in the truck and after driving it about a week I could barely get it back into the driveway due to this clutch issue.
 
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