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Discussion Starter #1
Where would i find one of those? Do i upgrade just the master cylinder or do i do the slave also? Thanks
 

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Early bird gets the worm
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South bend makes an upgraded metal slave cylinder, not sure on the master.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Then i'll be good to go on the releasing problem? Right now i can't put it in gear when it's running because i'm assuming it's not strong enough.
 

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POS ford plastic hydraulic master/slave assembly is your problem. A manual trans in a powerstroke equipped vehicle... that is your problem.

And if anybody makes replacement master/slave equipment for these trucks it's news to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was gonna swap to an auto but decided i'd see what i could do with this setup first. Hopefully those bushings is all it is!
 

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I was gonna swap to an auto but decided i'd see what i could do with this setup first. Hopefully those bushings is all it is!
If you're not making much power, just get a good clutch, and it should cure the disengagement problems. Bushings NEVER fix it. It's just a myth.
 

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Well i bought a new slave cylinder from Ford and it's still the same. I'm gonna check the bushings today and see what they look like. The only gear i can't go into when it's running is first so it only needs a little bit.
 

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Well i bought a new slave cylinder from Ford and it's still the same. I'm gonna check the bushings today and see what they look like. The only gear i can't go into when it's running is first so it only needs a little bit.
Yeah, keep that up and you'll soon realize that ALL of your syncros are getting strained in EVERY gear because your clutch is not disengaging. Fix it fast or start looking for a trans.

You need a clutch. I would say 90% chance. Is there anything wrong with your actual clutch material, or wear? No. But the little diaphragm fingers get bent over, various plastic bs parts get messed up, so on and so forth.

If the truck's making 500hp or less, do whatever you can think of, and if/when none of it works (and by works, I mean makes the truck shift like it SHOULD, not just acceptably) then call Clutch Specialty.

770-955-1988

Ask for Randy. He will get you a clutch with a pressure plate that actually WORKS. And the price is right. I always ran his clutches.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I just installed the Southbend Double Disc clutch and i think that's why it's not working. Before when i had the stock one it worked good to shift but it just slipped like crazy. Now i just need to fix the clutching problem and we're good to go!
 

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Well I just installed the Southbend Double Disc clutch and i think that's why it's not working. Before when i had the stock one it worked good to shift but it just slipped like crazy. Now i just need to fix the clutching problem and we're good to go!

That "just" part.....

Is "just" why manual transmissions don't work in Ford trucks. That part.... "just" won't leave you the Fuk alone. Full disengagement will haunt you till the day you die..... or till the day you stop fuking with a ford manual trans with hydraulic clutch disengagement components.
 

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It shouldn't be hard to determine whether the inadequate disengagement is the hydraulics or the pressure plate fingers. Have an assistant work the clutch while you slither under and measure the fork travel where the slave pushes it. If the hydraulics are bad, you'll get inadequate fork travel. If the fork travel is adequate but it's still not disengaging, that suggests weak pressure plate. Thing is, I dunno if there's a spec for adequate fork travel. When we were having hydraulics problems on one truck, comparing it with another that's working right, I recall the fork travel being about 1/2" - 9/16" when it's working right. Yeah, any clutch pressure plate can get weak, but the bushings, along with the position of the "arm" pivot on the shaft, are known weak points on these trucks (the FSM actually instructs you to REPLACE that arm EVERY time you replace any hydraulics components [over the top, IMHO]). And that's certainly the first place to look for inadequate clutch action (creep).
 

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Crazy Talk
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i have always been a fan of real clutch linkage. adjustability ftw!
 

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Custom Trailer Sales
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Not to hijack

Charles, in your opinion if you wanted to stick to a manual what would be the best option? Change out the adapter plate and throw something like a spicer, or eaton fuller 6 spd. behind the engine?
 

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Not to hijack

Charles, in your opinion if you wanted to stick to a manual what would be the best option? Change out the adapter plate and throw something like a spicer, or eaton fuller 6 spd. behind the engine?

If I had stuck with it, I had already started my way through wilwood part numbers on hydraulic throwout bearings and masters. With a good (read.... NOT plastic) hydraulic setup, I think consistency and functionality could be attained. Combine this with the fact that a REAL hydraulics setup would then allow you to run MORE plate load, and you would have the makings for a TRULY workable single disc for the street.

Look up Wilwood. Actually there are a bunch of companies that offer hydraulic slaves that fit behind the throwout bearing. Braided line out the hole in the bellhousing, little adapter plate at the firewall for a master.... and bingo, something that actually WORKS!
 

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If I had stuck with it, I had already started my way through wilwood part numbers on hydraulic throwout bearings and masters. With a good (read.... NOT plastic) hydraulic setup, I think consistency and functionality could be attained. Combine this with the fact that a REAL hydraulics setup would then allow you to run MORE plate load, and you would have the makings for a TRULY workable single disc for the street.

Look up Wilwood. Actually there are a bunch of companies that offer hydraulic slaves that fit behind the throwout bearing. Braided line out the hole in the bellhousing, little adapter plate at the firewall for a master.... and bingo, something that actually WORKS!
I completely understand what your saying here, why anyone would ever create a hydraulic setup using plastic is beyond me!!
I've been thinking there has to be some way to create a metal master/slave cylinder to work. Why didn't you ever try that before you got rid of the stick, not as fast as the nice setup you have behind the engine now no matter what?
 

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OverFuelingForYourPlesure
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I have talked to numerous people about a hydraulic upgrade for my truck but havent found anything aftermarket. I ended up running a combonation swamps turned me on to.
I am running a master cylinder out of a 94 bronco (I think), it is aluminum. I'll see if I can find the part number somewhere.
as for a slave cylinder I am running one out of a 91 7.3idi it is still plastic but it is twice as big around as the powerstroke ones. I am told an aluminum one exists but I havent found it yet.

I have no problem getting the clutch to reliece
 

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I have talked to numerous people about a hydraulic upgrade for my truck but havent found anything aftermarket. I ended up running a combonation swamps turned me on to.
I am running a master cylinder out of a 94 bronco (I think), it is aluminum. I'll see if I can find the part number somewhere.
as for a slave cylinder I am running one out of a 91 7.3idi it is still plastic but it is twice as big around as the powerstroke ones. I am told an aluminum one exists but I havent found it yet.

I have no problem getting the clutch to reliece
Do those parts fit right into their places?
 
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