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<---F350 DRIFTER
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Discussion Starter #1
A few months ago I swapped from auto to a s47 zf5. The zf had 300k on it and has been grinding from the 2-3 up shift and the 3-4 down and 3-2 down since I installed it. I have put 7k miles on it like this being carful to shift real slow on the 2-3 and 4-3 but it is basically impossible to shift into 2nd over 5mph. Before I drop a bunch of cash on a reman is there anything to check like clutch master/slave to make sure it is all working proper? Everything feels good to me. I put in a new pre bled master/slave cylinder when I did the swap. I am thinking about rebuilding myself if you think new syncros, bearings, rings, ect is all it needs. How hard of job is it? Special tools needed?
Thanks
 

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Sounds like the sychros are just bad.
You could try changing the fluid, but no guarantees.
Also when you downshift, Rev the engine a little.

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Do you have trouble getting it in 1st or reverse? What brand master?
 

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<---F350 DRIFTER
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516 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Sounds like the sychros are just bad.
You could try changing the fluid, but no guarantees.
Also when you downshift, Rev the engine a little.
I put new fluid in it from the start and has done it from the start of the swap. Tried the revving and it doesn't help either.

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Do you have trouble getting it in 1st or reverse? What brand master?
No, seems fine but I am always stopped. It smoothly goes into all gears when stopped. Dorman brand.
Should I try bleeding it? It feels good....atleast I think it does.
 

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I know in the superduty the Dorman master cylinder rod is shorter than the oem rod.
Is there any play in the pedal bushings?
I just want to eliminate a disengagement issue before you drop money on a rebuild.
 

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<---F350 DRIFTER
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Discussion Starter #6
I know in the superduty the Dorman master cylinder rod is shorter than the oem rod.
Is there any play in the pedal bushings?
I just want to eliminate a disengagement issue before you drop money on a rebuild.
Not much play. I actually adjusted the arm foreward to push the rod a little further to see if that helped....it didn't. I can adjust it further but then my cruise will not work. Also before I installed it the rod appeared to be the same as the stock one..
 

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My ZF5 grinds from time to time. Has been for a couple of years. Run the correct synthetic oil it will help if you are not. I also overfill the ZF5 which also helped take care of the gear rollover a bit along with reducing the grinding shifts a little. It usually only happens when I am flying thru the gears and when cold.
 

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<---F350 DRIFTER
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516 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
My ZF5 grinds from time to time. Has been for a couple of yesxars. Run the correct synthetic oil it will help if you are not. I also overfill the ZF5 which also helped take care of the gear rollover a bit along with reducing the grinding shifts a little. It usually only happens when I am flying thru the gears and when cold.
I have the right fluid and mine does it worse when warm as the fluid warms up.
 

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Also check the throw on your fork. My original fork was warped after putting a new one in the throw was about half as much. The original forks had tsb for being weak if I recall and the new fork was an updated one. I think. From the dealership the price was not that bad.
 

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<---F350 DRIFTER
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Discussion Starter #10
Also check the throw on your fork. My original fork was warped after putting a new one in the throw was about half as much. The original forks had tsb for being weak if I recall and the new fork was an updated one. I think. From the dealership the price was not that bad.
I put a new fork in when I installed it but I will check it. Thanks
I called a local diesel shop and he quoted me $800 to rebuild it with new syncros, bearings, ect so I am going to do that. Before I even told him what it was doing he said "let me guess, 2nd and 3rd are grinding."
Trans shops wanted $1700- $2000 for a reman unit.
 
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