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1997 Ford F350, 4x4, Banks Power Pak, Sun Coast Pro-Lock tranny and converter, Reverse shackle kit
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having a problem with all other windows except...... my driver's window. The other electric windows will only work if it is very cold outside. It has to be below 40 degrees to get the other three windows to roll up or roll down. When it's very cold ALL the windows work fine, but if the ambient temp is above 50 degrees the other three won't work. The driver's side works fine at any temp. I assume it works fine only because it has been used to most often. The others have rarely been operated in the trucks lifetime. I rarely operated any of the windows. This issue first started to happen with the rears about 15 years ago, then the right front started not to work. I don't drive the truck much at all anymore. I've only put about 20k on it in the last 15 years so it sits on the driveway most of the time. I start it up and drive it a few miles just to get hot about every three months. I guess the windows won't work all the time because of very little use on them.
What causes the windows only to work unless it real cold outside?
 

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...the other three won't work. ... What causes the windows only to work unless it real cold outside?
Depends on exactly what you mean by "won't work". Your description is pretty vague. Do the switches not move? When you press a switch & the glass doesn't move, does the volt meter drop slightly? If you try it with the engine off, do you hear any activity from the window motors? If a window is down, and stops working, can you help it by pulling it up or pushing it down? If the truck is cold & all the windows work, and you drive with the heater on high until the cab gets hot, do the windows stop working?
 
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1997 Ford F350, 4x4, Banks Power Pak, Sun Coast Pro-Lock tranny and converter, Reverse shackle kit
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am the original owner of the truck. Never had water above the bottom of the doors so the window motors or mechcanisums have never been been sunk wet. All switches will easily move but windows don't go up or down. Windows don't operate from the common drivers door console switch OR the specific door mounted window switch.
Volt meter does not move when switch is depressed UP or DOWN but I have always wait until the PCM heaters have switched OFF and I hold a steady RPM at about 1200 rpm when using the switch to make sure the system has good high voltage. The meter may show some movement if the engine is just at idle. I'll have to try that and check the battery terminals with a VOM.
Can't rememeber trying the windows when the engine is NOT running. Most of the time I try them when it is running so I can't hear sound from the windows due to engine noise when the switch is moved to UP or DOWN. If the engine is not running.............No clicking or any sound can be heard from the windows. Nothing. It's like the connection is broken if the ambient temp is above 40 degrees. There is something in common with the ambient air temp and the windows not working.
You ask........... If the truck is cold & all the windows work, and you drive with the heater on high until the cab gets hot, do the windows stop working? I have not tried that and don't want to for fear they will not roll back up if they do go down. I'm incline to believe this issue is temp related to the individual motor units and has been caused from never operating the windows. They sound normal when they do operate. No weird sounds or dragging. I have sprayed silicon spray into the window tracks to reduce drag which seems to help a little when they do move.
I get the impression because they only work when the ambient air temp is very cold............... that helps an electrical connection somewhere in the motor unit to conduct.
Do these window motors have a relay built in to them?
Do they use conventional brushes on a commutator?
 

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The windows do use a circuit breaker (and I think it's a thermal type IIRC), so maybe it's tripping when the temperature is warm??? Just a thought. Cheers!
 

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1997 Ford F350, 4x4, Banks Power Pak, Sun Coast Pro-Lock tranny and converter, Reverse shackle kit
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The windows do use a circuit breaker (and I think it's a thermal type IIRC), so maybe it's tripping when the temperature is warm??? Just a thought. Cheers!
Where is this breaker located?
In the main fuse box?
 

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Circuit breaker is #14 in the underdash fuse box. Cheers!
 

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Volt meter does not move when switch is depressed...
That suggests the fault is between the B+ and the driver's switch. Pull the switch panel out of the door (1 phillips screw, and 1 snap clip - be careful; the door panel is easy to break there) and measure voltage with the key turned backward to ACC between the driver's switch LB/Bk wire and Bk (return/ground) wire while operating any switch.
...they will not roll back up if they do go down.
You don't have to roll it all the way down to find out if it works - just bump each window less than an inch down, and then back up, several times for EACH window.
...caused from never operating the windows.
That could affect the switches, but not likely the motors. With the key OFF, rock all the switches back & forth several dozen times to try to self-clean the contacts.
...when the ambient air temp is very cold............... that helps an electrical connection somewhere in the motor unit to conduct.
No.
Do these window motors have a relay built in to them?
No, just an internal thermal breaker.
Do they use conventional brushes on a commutator?
Yes.

This shows a typical 2-door truck's PW circuit. On yours, the rear doors are wired exactly like the passenger door, other than some of the wire colors.
 

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1997 Ford F350, 4x4, Banks Power Pak, Sun Coast Pro-Lock tranny and converter, Reverse shackle kit
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the info.
I forgot there is an 'Accessory' position on the switch. Stupid me.
In Accessory and with the doors closed.............. it was quite enough to hear any sounds from the windows. When I tried the windows in Accessory, the passenger front window does make one faint dull click sound when I hit the switch. Very faint but I can hear it when the switch is pressed ON or OFF. The dash volt meter does not move when the window switch is pressed but I did connect a digital VOM to the right battery and it only drops 0.10 (1/10th) volt when the switch is pressed ON or OFF.
The right rear window makes no sounds at all. It has been the most problematic window as it has been the least used window in the trucks life span. I didn't take note of the VOM when trying this window.
 

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The slight voltage drop suggests high resistance in the circuit - probably in a switch, but it'll take some voltage measurements to find exactly where.
 
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