I also have this problem. One day the window went down and wouldn't come back up. The rear passenger window. So I took off the door panel to check it out. It sounded like when the window tried to roll up it was in a bind of some sort. The window motor was trying though. So a buddy pushed the window up with the assistance of the motor so rain wouldn't get in until I can figure out a fix....
So would ask the same question as original poster.
I had the same problem, and the tracts were dry as a bone. Greased them up and have worked perfect ever since. I actually used wheel bearing grease on them, the really thick stuff. Mine did the same exact thing, on both sides, its been 6 months and still work great!!!!!
They were slow to go down, and wouldn't come back up, but if your motor is out, good luck, that thing looks like a biatch to pull out. I did have to replace my power door lock actuator though, it was toast.
I just did this one here a few months ago, not to bad, hardest part is getting to the bolts to take the motor out, as you have to drill some holes to get to them, I got the motor from NPD as they had the exact one for that door, as far as drilling holes to get the bolts out, here is what I did. I got a small drill bit and drilled thru the door pannel in the areas were I thought the bolt was, then useing a flashlight to look in, and a mall mirror held inside the door to tell me which way I needed to go to center over the bolt, once I was on / near the bolt I then used a bigger bit to cut a hole to get to the bolts, over all not to hard took maybe ~1.5 - 2 hrs from start to finish. Now I need to replace the door lock acuator in the drivers side rear
Many times the plastic dogs inside the motor disintegrate causing the problems. The motor comes out without too much trouble as Roy pointed out. The dogs are available in th HELP! section at most parts places. Other folks have used 5/16" nuts in lieu of the dogs. As far as the door lock actuator, you have to drill out the large rivet in the lower rear edge of the door and unhook the rod (not really that bad). Check to make sure that the rod that goes to the actual lock pull on the door is not binding (sometime they are tie-wrapped to the inner door sheetmetal). When I replaced my actuator, I bought a factory Ford actuator from anther vehicle and switched the rod from my old actuator (the motor part of the actuator was the same in both). Cheers!
Door lock actuator
I went to a local car stereo place and bought a generic actuator, built a little shield around it with tin from lowes, and mounted it right up, worked like a charm, and cost me 12 bucks. Ford wanted like 150.00 per actuator for theirs.
i just replaced my driver side, it was a PITA lol there are 3 botls that hold it in, 2 are decently accesible with a small bax wrench, and the 3d one on the bottom you can see from looking up inthe little slot in the door just below the motor its self, i just said screw it and i cut out 2 small tabs in the door roughly where the bolts were and used a ratchet with an extension, ;you need alot of patience if you dont want to cut the door, but i figured its all covered up so i didnt mind. its helpfull to have 2 people on this, as soon as you pull the motor the window falls down, and you havbe to preferably have small arms for this opperation.
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