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BRING DA AMBALAMPS
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Discussion Starter #1
I don't know ANYTHING about car audio stuff but I do know that this sub/amp/box must suck cause I can fart louder than this thing hits. I do know the sub is a new Kicker CVS shallow mount 12" and the amp is a Power Acoustic 1250 watt 2 ohm but that's all I can tell you. is the box too small, does the amp suck? it just sucks.



 

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Here are the box requirements from Kicker's site. I'd bet that's something to do with it. I know that a shallow mount doesn't necessarily mean it needs less airspace. I don't know a whole lot, but I used to work in the same building as a car audio company (crank it up car audio if you know of em). I'd guess it's the box. Or how do you have it hooked to the head unit? I know I had to do a hi/lo converter to hook mine to my stock head unit.

Min Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 1.0, 28.3
Max Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 4.6, 130
Min Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 1.75, 49.6
Max Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 2.25, 63.7
 

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Stroke it B!tch
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yep for sure the sub has to be able to move freely without touching anything. Pull the seat foward and it should sound alittle better. Also look on the amp and there should be a nob to turn up your sub a little. You should be able to hit alittle harder than your fart lol. are you still running the stock head unit (CD Player) ?
 

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The box size looks right. I have a single shallow mount Rockford Fosgate in my f250 and it sounds really good! Is the box ported? If it's ported it will prob sound like crap. In my experience, shallow mounts need non-ported boxes.

Might be amp setting, the way you have it bridged and/or + - switched. It could be a lot of things.
 

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BRING DA AMBALAMPS
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Discussion Starter #7
the sub is bridged properly. i pulled the back seat out some and it does sound a little better. I'm thinking about building a box the length of the back seat to see if that helps. looks like my current box has .63 cu ft of air space so it's too small.

Also, the sub is a 4 ohm and the amp is a 2 ohm.....what does that mean?
 

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diesel fiend
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The amp can handle a pair of 4 ohm subs wired in series? to 2 ohm. I had a hard time getting mine to sound right and wound up building a box for 2 jbl shallow 10's. Your amp probably has the gain all the way down , turn it up enough so when your music is as loud as you can stand it the sub is hammerin'.
 

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FNG
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IMO the sub sucks too. I got one in my truck and it sounds like garbage. I even put it in a bigger box to see if it needed more air space then what kicker recommended, and it still sucked. My two jl 8's hit better and are twice as clear as this 12.
 

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BRING DA AMBALAMPS
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Discussion Starter #14
well i figured the amp sucks. this is what came in the truck and i've had it about 2 yrs but I was curious if I could make it work for a few months until I could put in a decent system. i spent all my money on the motor up till this point but I'm going to build a new box for it over the next couple weeks and then pop a new amp in there.
 

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i know this is an old post, but i have the same amp running an old punch HX2 power series sub. dual 2 ohm voice coil wired series to have a 4ohm load. adjust the subsonic filter to somewhere in the 20-25 range to clean up the sound a bit. kicker CVS shallow mount's dont like much below 25hz, set it to low pass on the X-over switch somewhere between 150 or higher(depending on the rest of the system).make sure to wire the sub to the amp where it says mono. i think it is left positive and right negative. depending on the head unit you are running you should have the gain somewhere in the half-3/4 range for a 3 volt input and somewhere around 1/4-1/2 for a 5 volt pre-amp input. as for the bass boost, set it to 3ish and adjust it from there. the amp is by no means an spl comp amp,but it does produce about 400 clean watts which is more than enough for most people, and about all the the cvs sub wants.
 

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that hx2 deserves better
 
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