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C'mon Cheap Charley. Get a little pump, a remote oil filter housing and a spin-on filter, and some hose. The filter will last for thousands of gallons of lube oil. Whether its worth the effort, depends on how often you change oil. If a 30,000 mile a year truck changes oil every 5,000 miles you produce 24 gallons of oil a year. A shop would greatly improve that.

I don't use ATF for the precise reason you described, but then I drain my tranny only every 100K or so. I've driven diesels for a quarter century and never had my tank checked but I suppose there is always a first time.
 

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If I missed it I apologize.... But is there a specific mix ratio that you use when adding the used motor oil to the tank?? ... IE 1gl oil to 20gl of fuel..

Also would it matter where the oil came from.... We drain approx 4 gallons of oil from the race truck after every race... just to be safe. oil is cheaper than a new motor. Anyways its Mobil 1 full synthetic... Could I use this if filtered down to 3 micron??
 

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I think its time to call NASA

It's not rocket science, what Dave is talking about. :doh:


C'mon Cheap Charley. Get a little pump, a remote oil filter housing and a spin-on filter, and some hose. The filter will last for thousands of gallons of lube oil. .
You go to NAPA and buy yourself a spin on hydraulic filter and adapter housing to fit, then you buy a pump of some sort, probably a high volume fuel pump would work. and some hose and fittings. You ask the guy behind the counter for a filter that is 3-5 micron. You assemble all the pieces, then pump till you cant pump no more. Then you buy yourself either a new filter or a new pump, depends on which goes bad first. But you will probably have 200,000 more miles before then.

I plan to do this sometime in the near future so I will try to post parts information for those who want it.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
C'mon Cheap Charley. Get a little pump, a remote oil filter housing and a spin-on filter, and some hose. The filter will last for thousands of gallons of lube oil. Whether its worth the effort, depends on how often you change oil. If a 30,000 mile a year truck changes oil every 5,000 miles you produce 24 gallons of oil a year. A shop would greatly improve that.
Not being cheap.

I just had no idea how long a filter could clean up dirty oil. I was thinking it would last only for a few gallons before getting clogged. If that was the case, then a $30 filter does not save you any money. But if it lasts for thousands of gallons that is a different story. Sign me up.

Gotta picture of your set up?
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Perhaps you are talking about building a set-up something like this?

Filter and housing with 3/4" threads. (Don't think this is a 3 micron filter, though. Can't seem to find one.)


3/4" hose


Pony Pump - Self Priming


I wonder if a hand pump would work as well since we are talking about doing a gallon or two at a time...

Looks like I may have a project to do on the next rainy weekend.
:)

John
 

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Discussion Starter #47
As I kick around this idea with the 3 micron filter I began to wonder if I heated up some used fryer oil and ran it through a series of various sized filters, I wonder if it would come out clean enough to mix in with some diesel fuel. Seems easier than the current method involved with building a contraption with a hot water heater, methanol, lye, and other things...
 

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You got it Adirondacker. Yes a hand pump would work OK if you don't mind pumping it.

Yes, synthetic work work OK. As the WVO guys will tell you, diesels can run on most anything that is at least a little oily. Herr Doktor Diesel's prototype run on peanut oil. I don't recommend 100LL avgas.

I recommend 20:1 (by volume) because I am relatively sure it won't smoke like a car with bad rings and valve seals. If you have lots of lube oil you can expreiment but I'm pretty sure that if the lube oil ratio gets above 15:1 she'll smoke like a steam locomotive.

If you run a lot of lube oil I'd recommend keeping your crowing to the Nation. Legally it is untaxed motor fuel if you put it your fuel tax and some jurisdictions treat it as 'shine. Some homebrewers got afoul of the law in NC a while back making untaxed B100. So do like smart moonshiners and shut up. People do talk and LEOs are always listening.
 

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Adirondacker, that's exactly what I was looking at earlier today to try and make up a list for you. I dont have any part number information for you on the proper filter. But if I can get a chance to look in one of the filter catalogs at work. I will be happy to post that information for you. I plan to build something to do this so why not share the information with others. We're all here to help each other and learn arent we?
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Adirondacker, that's exactly what I was looking at earlier today to try and make up a list for you. I dont have any part number information for you on the proper filter. But if I can get a chance to look in one of the filter catalogs at work. I will be happy to post that information for you. I plan to build something to do this so why not share the information with others. We're all here to help each other and learn arent we?
Thanks FireFixer.

I saw a different type of filter used on some YouTube video late last night. Can't remember where. They were cleaning WVO.

First the oil was run through some sort of screening material and then a t-shirt to collect the fry chunks (left over chicken nuggets).

Then it passed through the smaller micron filter by a pump.

Anyhow, it was housed inside a glass bowl and it filtered it down to 5 microns and he threw it away after approx 50 gallons. Said the filter only cost $2-$3.

No model numbers of course...

Let me know what you find.

Thanks.
 

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Those might be just the plain old water filters sold in walmart and home depot... I bought one of those last week because i'm trying to get started in BIO...
 

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about the EBPV. i've decided to unhook mine. my truck rarely gets started at less than 50 degrees F. i have seen the instructions on how to clean the tube out. do i need to clean the tube and valve and then disconnect the electrical connector? or can i just disconnect the electrical and be done?
 

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I simply disconnected the electrical connector under the intake "Y" pipe and taped the ends off. Haven't bothered with the tube since.

Note:
Without the EBPV on a zero degree morning, it takes about 12 miles to get the heater to pickup. Maybe I ought to plug it in at night but since it spends the nights in a garage that seems like putting perfume on a dog.
 

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I got 19MPG with my truck a few days ago on a 315 mile trip from Pa to MD!!


I have a DIY air intake, 4" straight pipe, and a DP Tuner 80 econo setting...
 

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Also, that was with 4.11 gears and 285 tires.
 

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Dave, I'll trade you my paddle mirrors for your towing mirrors, that would probably gain you .000128 mpg!! :poke:

But in all seriousness, one question I have, I have been trying to do the stay under 2000 RPM's what are you guys seeing Speed wise at 2000, i believe i have 3.73's, and at 2000 RPM's i am at about 67 mph.
 

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Dave, I'll trade you my paddle mirrors for your towing mirrors, that would probably gain you .000128 mpg!! :poke:

But in all seriousness, one question I have, I have been trying to do the stay under 2000 RPM's what are you guys seeing Speed wise at 2000, i believe i have 3.73's, and at 2000 RPM's i am at about 67 mph.
Yep you have 3.73 gears I turn alittle over 2000 with mine at 65 & I have 31s & 4.10 gears.
 
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