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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a lot white smoke on start up. It doesn’t smoke when the truck is warm. Truck Runs great but the smoke is obnoxious. It smokes in warm and cold weather. Truck fires up fast, no issues starting and it runs great. Did a compression test and all were above 340 (or whatever the reccomended low is) and close to eachother, I can’t remember the exact numbers. 170k miles on the truck.Here is a list of what I have replaced and tested.

rosewood rebuilt my injectors to 180/30
new beru glow plugs,harnesses and valve cover gaskets.
new fuzagatto fuel system Bosch pump
new cps
17degree hpop from low mileage truck

all parts motor craft, most bought from riffraff. i had to pull the driver side head to remove broken glow plug when doing injectors. I have no fluid exchange between oil, fuel and coolant. I checked the turbo for play and the exhaust side for oil and it’s dry. The truck did this before I touched it to do the injectors and fuel system. I did find a bad plug on the engine harness that runs the drivers side front two injectors (#2+4 I think?) replaced that. I have been running power hungry tunes for stage 1 injectors before and after injector rebuild. The truck smokes with the tuner pulled also.I pulled and reinstalled the rebuilt injectors because i didn’t seat them correctly the first time. I bought all new washers and gaskets when I did this. I have driven the truck for quite a few miles, there is no way for oil to be in the cylinders from changing the injectors. All of these parts were replaced when I did the injectors. I do not know what to do at this point. any ideas would be great. Thanks
 

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How long are you waiting for the glowplugs to warm? Note that the WTS light has nothing to do with the amount of time that the glowplugs are active (about 1.5 minutes). It is simply a reminder to wait, so you might wait an extra 30 seconds or so on a cold start and see if the symptoms improve. Here's some tests for you on the the glowplug relay (GPR), which many times turns out to be the culprit:

To check the GPR, measure the voltage drop across the GPR's large terminals. While the GPR is active (up to 1.5 to 2 minutes after the key is turned to Wait-to-Start) put your meter leads on the large terminals (one lead on one large terminal and the other lead on the other large terminal). This measures how much voltage is being "lost" across the relay. A reading of 0.3V or more indicates a bad relay. Also, check the relay’s control wires (smaller wires) disconnected from the relay for battery voltage at the Red/Light Green striped wire and ground at the Purple/Orange striped wire (check both when the key is turned to Wait-to-Start).

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Relay is a western plow and it tested good. Batteries are new. I have set a timer to 2 mins after key is switched to wait to start before starting it and still a lot smoke. I have also timed for 2 minutes turned key off and back on for a little while. Still a lot of smoke. Smoke seems to be white and smell like diesel. It might look a little blue, I can’t tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I think I might be having intermittent issues with the signal that tells the glow plug relay to turn on. I tested the voltage across the big terminals and I was getting 0 on the side going to the glow plugs with the key switched on. I made sure to test it seconds after the key was switched on. I had this problem a while back. It was testing bad and then all of a sudden it tested good. I don’t really understand how to test the small wire for ground with the multi meter. What am I looking for?
 

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Also, check the relay’s control wires (smaller wires) disconnected from the relay for battery voltage at the Red/Light Green striped wire and ground at the Purple/Orange striped wire (check both when the key is turned to Wait-to-Start).
So from the above stuff on the control wires (disconnect them from the relay), you should see battery voltage on the R/LG wire when the key is turned to WTS. With the multi meter on basic continuity testing (I use the setting where the symbol looks like a diode symbol/with a sound symbol as well), place one probe on the P/O wire and the other on a good ground. My meter will beep on a completed circuit. Your meter may be different so see what it does when the probes are shorted together and when they are apart. Since the PCM provides the ground to complete the circuit, if you don't get the good ground, it could be the wiring from the relay to the PCM or the PCM itself.

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I tested the relay again today and it was working. The voltage drop across read .04 at first then .03 after a while. This is a western plow relay, not sure if that makes a difference when determining the relay is bad at .03 or more. Thanks
 
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