[Haul_n_horses2]

I have seen reference to two different sets of springs for upgraded valve train:
Comp Cam 910-16 Dual Springs (380#/in) and the Comp Cam 26120 Bee Hive Springs (370#/in). The later seem to require special ancillary parts, 4696-16 Spring locators, 795-16 Retainers, 617-16 Valve Locks. If this is correct, the total cost of BeeHive spring replacements is $327 vs. $97.

What are the performance differences between the Beehive and Dual Coil Springs?

What other ancillary costs will the Beehive Springs ie. Head machining incur?

Are different pushrods necessary for the stiffer springs?

What else am I clueless about?

 

[skylinedan]

The bee hive springs are better, has too do with loads and harmonics at high RPM's. I had too chevy's with LS1 motors in them and the springs were really nice up high in the RPM band. I think you have almost no problems with valve float useing them.

Dan

 

[Short Bus]

ive got the beehive spings, no machining necessary. So far so good, no valve float for me.

 

[Haul_n_horses2]

ive got the beehive spings, no machining necessary. So far so good, no valve float for me.

So no machining necessary for the spring locators or you just did not use them?

 

[Short Bus]

i cant remember. All i know is that there was 3 part numbers. I think Sun has them in his webshots.

 

[CSIPSD]

Ok... let me ask this... Do I need to spend $400 or will I be fine at $100 for a 450hp truck? She is never going to see high RPM's, not going to spray (other then water/meth...

 

[Haul_n_horses2]

I think Sun has them in his webshots.

Suns' webshots shows the springs, locators and the retainers but not the valve locks. Perhaps he reused those. I will PM him. Thanx

 

[RockinJW]

I used the dual springs from Crower, along with their pushrods. I'm not sure how everything went together since Wide Open Performance did the motor, but I figured for the $600 for everything it was cheap insurance against valve float.

 

[cota]

I used the 910-16's so far they are holding up to 50PSI of boost.

 

[THEDIESELMAN]

Ok... let me ask this... Do I need to spend $400 or will I be fine at $100 for a 450hp truck? She is never going to see high RPM's, not going to spray (other then water/meth...

I think for a mild build I would just use the cheaper ones if the boost isn't going to get crazy.

 

[skylinedan]

I'd agree depends on what the future holds for your motor. You can build it to handle anything you throw at it now even if your not planing to get crazy at this time. Kinda saying its there if I need it. I'd think about what kind of boost numbers your shooting for and build acordinly.

Dan

 

[trick76cj5]

I've got 910's, been to 3800rpm w/o any problems so far (well, none related to the springs anyway )

 

[Haul_n_horses2]

Is the boost or the drive pressure more important for floating valves?

 

[THEDIESELMAN]

I would say to much of either will float a valve because both are putting downward force on the valves and springs.

 

[trick76cj5]

I would say to much of either will float a valve because both are putting downward force on the valves and springs.

I would have to agree. . .multiply boost or back pressure by the area of the valve and that will tell you how much of the spring tension is used to keep the valve closed against the back pressure.

 

[69W900A]

One will more likely float an intake valve and the other more likely float an exhaust valve.

You have to use seat, retainer and locks regardless of what brand parts you put in. The beehives will require you to use their seat and retainers as they are different sizes than stock, the locks may or may not be, it depends on what * comp uses.

A beehive spring will do the same job as a dual spring but with less spring rate. For many applications this is very desirable for several reasons. There can be much discussion of wire size and the harmonic benefits of the beehives, but the biggest reason for there renewed popularity is for longevity of flat tappet cams.

The comp beehives that fit the PowerStroke just happen to be a good fit, but the 7.3's won't see much of a gain from the beehive design since they won't usually be turning 5500+ RPM. The primary benefit is the increased pressure.

Any of the aftermarket springs are better than stock and will work for most people's uses. The beehives are nice springs and the design does have some inherent benefits, the dual springs will work just as well. Buy the springs from the PSN vendor you like best and spend time on something else.

 

[jtharvey]

I wish I had known that springs would be a good idea when I was doing the injectors and head studs a few weeks ago. Would have been easier to do then. And another $100 at that point would have been a no-brainer.

What other parts, besides springs would one need if you went with the 910's, or can the stock stuff be reused?

 

[69W900A]

SunsPSD has all the part numbers for the stuff he used in his webshots. Springs, seats, retainers and I'd use new locks just because they are inexpensive enough.

 

[trick76cj5]

the 910's are a direct replacement, new locks would be cheap insurance since you're tearing them apart.

 

[strokin_early_99]

910's going in here, if I can actually get them. The only thing you need to replace is the spring. It is a direct drop in...