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Discussion Starter #1
'95 F250 4x4 5-speed ECLB, stock TTB, 76,000 miles. We had the front brakes done at about 65,000, and had them replace the front wheel bearings while they had it apart. At 73,000, we had a pair of Warn manual hubs swapped in. Couple weekends ago, we're on our way back from up north, stayed at the cabin, and noticed some noise up front, and then the brake pedal went soft. Oh, and the right front was really hot, and the lockout was in the locked position (we had 'em locked up north for a while, but unlocked them). WTF? Got it towed home, and it turns out the brakes are fine, but the right front wheel bearing is totally shot, and it evidently took the hub out with it. With the shot bearing, wheel was sagging and putting pressure on the caliper pistons, creating the braking issue. I'm guessing that's what locked the lockout as well, but who knows?

Question on our minds is, why would that bearing get dusted so quickly? Pretty sure it's a Timken; don't know the part number offhand. It seemed to be fine between the time it was installed and the time they put in the Warns. I can't help but wonder if they didn't set the bearing load properly when they installed the hubs. Anybody have this happen at such low mileage? We never tow with the truck, not much winter use, no mudding or pulling, it's pretty-much a daily (or, in our case, a weekend-ly) driver.
 

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Maybe just bad or cheap bearings? Got to look around for better stuff these days since china is making 90% percent of stuff these days.

Travis T
 

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they may not of been packed well when installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So, anybody have a lead on a bearing that's NOT made in China (or India, or Bangladesh, etc....)?
 

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Idk, thats sounds more like installation error than cheap bearings.. less than 10,000 and it grenades?......
 

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Sounds like an install error to me as well.

When the manual hubs were put in, did they replace auto ones? If so, were the wheel bearing nuts changed?

When the wheel bearings were put in, where the bearings CORRECTLY packed and adjusted?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When the manual hubs were put in, did they replace auto ones? If so, were the wheel bearing nuts changed?

When the wheel bearings were put in, where the bearings CORRECTLY packed and adjusted?
Yes, the Warns replaced the OEM auto hubs. I don't know about the nuts. I know they had to install conversion kits with the notched washers for setting the preload. I think they even showed us the kits, but I honestly don't remember if they included new bearing nuts. And the work was done at a supposedly reputable 4WD shop, so I'm sure they've done this procedure before.
 

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The "conversion kit" is the new wheel bearing nuts.

Everyone can have a bad day or it just may have been rushed
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the reminder, Brad. Now I remember it having nuts and the washers.

Eek, it gets worse. This is all third-hand, haven't seen the carnage myself, but evidently the hub is fused to the axle shaft, which is shot. Spindle is still available at the dealership, but the axle will have to be salvage-picked. And the shop is totally entrenching, not even willing to warranty out the Warn hub, which has only been on since August.

Hmm, I can't help but wonder, if we're going as deep as the axle shaft, maybe this is the time to lay the truck up for a while and go hunting for a 60......
 

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Timken are some of the best" bearings i have used.... Thats why so many OEM's use them..... I would agree with everyone else, lack of proper installation, preload, or inadequate packing" with grease properly..... Also bad news, that the original shop dont want to stand behind it..... For what your repairs are going to cost, you mite want to consider the D-60.... I would guess you would be able to pay for the majority of it, depending on your current repair costs...... They can usually be had for a $1000 or less if you shop around.....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
:eek:Well now the tune changes. They're gonna cover parts and labor, most of it anyway. Looks like the cage for the outer bearing is what grenaded, starting the whole meltdown. So that kinda suggests it wasn't preloaded properly. Hub is slagged, stub axle (or whatever is called the part outboard of the u-joint) is shot, and of course the spindle. So we're trying to figure out where to source the shaft and spindle in good shape. OEM are :eek: expensive, and I'm worried that most of the aftermarket is "C4" (certified cheap Chinese [email protected]). Do we just go boneyard for both? How do we know what kind of shape they're in? Sucks that our trucks have the digital odo, so you don't know how many miles are on a junkyard donor truck.
 

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Junk yard will have everything you need. Last year i had to get a used D50 spindle, it was about $40. Remember to replace the needle bearing inside the spindle.

Axle stubs new are around 90-100 so used should be 40-50
 

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Hmm, the cheapest boneyard one we can find is about $90, and it's from a truck with over 200,000 miles on it. The [email protected] shame is that this truck has only about 77,000.

I know that eBay one is the right part; I'm just wondering about the quality/reliability. Conspicuous absence of a brand name. I can't help but wonder if it's not made from old World Trade Center steel that was hastily shipped off to China 10 years ago.... (or just generally Chinese-made marginal quality).
 

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Hmm, the cheapest boneyard one we can find is about $90, and it's from a truck with over 200,000 miles on it. The [email protected] shame is that this truck has only about 77,000.

I know that eBay one is the right part; I'm just wondering about the quality/reliability. Conspicuous absence of a brand name. I can't help but wonder if it's not made from old World Trade Center steel that was hastily shipped off to China 10 years ago.... (or just generally Chinese-made marginal quality).

Guy on another board has a TTB he pulled from a truck. I just PMed him to see if the axle and spindle are good, and how much


Guess I should of saved some parts form the 3 I scrapped this summer. Outer axles are $199!!!!!:eek:
 

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Are the OBS hubs the same as the super duty ones? Reason I ask is because when I did ball joints on the ex, I had a hard time spinning the hubs after bolting the hubs back to the knuckle. Almost like something was binding in the hub. Nothing was overtourqued either. When I loosened the four bolts that held the hub on it was able to be spun freely. The only "cheapo" part I used was the hub vacuum seal that goes on the axle half from rock auto. Maybe the same thing happened in this case.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sooper Doody will def. be different, since the lug spacing is metric.

Sorry, another question -- my wife is thinking we should get new studs/nuts, the ones that hold the spindle onto the knuckle (or kingpin or whatever it's called). They're only $2-3 apiece, but is it better not to mess with knocking out the old ones?

Yup, after Cash for Clunkers, parts like this are getting rare. Even if you'd scrapped out the TTBs themselves, the innards like the stub axles and such woulda been worth putting up for sale.
 
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