[imelmo]

So last night I was driving home and decided I would take the truck up over 4000rpm to double check that it does fuel at that rpm. Didn't quite make it though. When I hit about 3800 the truck made a noise like hitting the rev limiter, ran real rough for a couple of seconds and killed. Wouldn't re-crank. I also got a scare 'cause at the same time I heard something metallic knocking around. That turned out to be the exhaust coming loose from the down-pipe fortunately.

Tried cranking it again this morning and it wouldn't. All fluids are fine, no metal pieces any where. Put the AutoEnginuity on it and got the cps code. Had a spare cps so I put it in; truck cranked up. Did take a tiny bit longer than normal, but cranked and idled just fine. Drove it around the parking lot and all was good. Pulled it into the shop. Fixed the exhaust. Cranked it back up.

Popped the hood to check the trans fluid and the truck started "skipping". Then it would come back to normal and idle fine. It did it a couple of more times and then killed. Cranked it back up ran for about a minute and started skipping again and killed. Every time I craked it up, as stated earlier, it took a tiny bit longer than normal to crank.

I'm gonna call David tomorrow, don't really feel like bothering him with it on his day off. I'm sure there's the off chance that the cps I replaced it with was bad too, but in the event it isn't, what else could it be and what else should I check?

 

[CooterBrown]

Walk maybe, are there any score marks on the CPS?

 

[bigrpowr]

the cam is dusted. j/k prolly another bad cps. sounds like it to me.

 

[THEDIESELMAN]

Just pull that engine and send it to me and then I will send you mine and you will be all good in the hood.

 

[imelmo]

Well, unfortunately it looks like whatabudro wins the prize:

So I guess this means I need to pull the engine now? Don't imagine it's something I can correct by removing the oil pan with the motor in the truck.

Next question, aren't girdles supposed to prevent this? I have a girdle from Hypermax on the truck.

Is there something out there that'll do a better job of preventing this?

Are there some good directions somewhere (preferably with pics) on how to remove the motor?

Am I gonna have to get some machine work done as a result of this, or is that something I won't know 'til the motor's out?

Guess I'll be puttin' the swap-out motor in the truck sooner than I thought.

 

[smorris]

I havent had the cam out of one yet. Is there a thrust collar in there ?? I know on the small block fords there is a collar that holds the cam from walking front to back. Maybe you got a little extra clearance in there, and its just a matter of shimming, or a different thrust plate?

 

[bigrpowr]

dayum!!! i have the girdle from wideopen. not sure if it is a hypermax product. wonder what the root cause is? that sucks danny.

 

[THEDIESELMAN]

What would make it hit the CPS.

 

[gregrob]

What would make it hit the CPS.

Cam Walk


Sucks Elmo

 

[Aljay]

Hell just get the shims from international and put it back in.oke: Damn it so close to DHRA nat. time too. Hope it is nothing serious.

 

[imelmo]

dayum!!! i have the girdle from wideopen. not sure if it is a hypermax product. wonder what the root cause is? that sucks danny.

I'm sure spinnin' it that high in the top setting didn't help. I'm gonna pull the new cps back out just to make sure it's scarred too.

 

[bigrpowr]

I'm sure spinnin' it that high in the top setting didn't help. QUOTE]

uh...yeah

 

[Haul_n_horses2]

Cam Walk


Sucks Elmo

International posts a spec for endplay in the cam and they have shims that can keep the cam from hitting the CPS. However, I do not think any International are running 4000 rpms let alone the HP you are.

 

[DarkShadowDiesel]

Danny, the only step by step i have seen is on DZL JIM's website, here is the link: link
really sorry to hear about this. i checked DI's website and they have engine assembly instructions as well, might be of reference: link
hope you get it fixed soon. by the way, nice pic in DP magazine this month

 

[69W900A]

The girdle, which holds the main caps in alignment have nothing to do with the cam/CPS. The cam walking is normal, however if the thrust plate was a bit warn to start with the extra RPM may have been enough to chew up that CPS. Before I get carried away I'd check the end play on the cam, before even that I'd put a new CPS in it and runt it again. If you have the same problem then either shim the CPS out, or take the front cover off and address the issue causing the excessive cam walk.

 

[THEDIESELMAN]

I would try and shim the CPS and hope that fixes the problem and just go from there instead of just yanking the engine.

 

[imelmo]

The girdle, which holds the main caps in alignment have nothing to do with the cam/CPS. The cam walking is normal, however if the thrust plate was a bit warn to start with the extra RPM may have been enough to chew up that CPS. Before I get carried away I'd check the end play on the cam, before even that I'd put a new CPS in it and runt it again. If you have the same problem then either shim the CPS out, or take the front cover off and address the issue causing the excessive cam walk.

Yeah, David clarified the girdle to me.

I'm still learnin' about the engines and am TRYING to do the work myself now. Any suggestions on what to shim the cps with?

Also, how do I go about checking the end play on the cam?

Thanx for all the help.

 

[THEDIESELMAN]

International has shims for the CPS.

 

[CooterBrown]

I didn't want the prize dude, Sorry

 

[389SixPack]

Danny, look at the CPSs you have and you'll need to shim at least mor than the deepest scar in the CPS - then maybe add 0.005 - 0.010" shim for good measure. Of course, put in a New CPS, too.