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Discussion Starter #21
My kit of Viton O-rings conveniently skips from #012 to #016, so the Hylomar will have to do.

The heater fell apart when I removed it (after nearly unscrewing the riser in the wrong direction), but I've read that it's not necessary (especially in such a warm climate as Memphis), so I'll leave it out until I think I need it.

I'm really optimistic that cleaning the FPR screen will make a difference in the pulsing idle, but I had hoped Mark would have more info about the transmission behavior, given that it does shift from 1 to 2.
 

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My fuel heater has been out for years and I've never had a problem (I live in the mountains at 4100 ft and we've been down to -3F before). If you do replace it, go with the SD-style heater element. Note that on your 97, there is also a "brillo pad" type screen under the plate where the line goes in to the bottom of the regulator. The plate is held in with a circlip and can be a PITA to get the plate reseated with the circlip and new o-ring. The fuel bowl reseal kit from DieselORings actually comes with 2 of those o-rings due to the tendency to cut it when installing it. Cheers!
 

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I had hoped Mark would have more info about the transmission behavior, given that it does shift from 1 to 2.
Nope. I can't come up with a failure mode that matches what your trans is doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
...there is also a "brillo pad" type screen under the plate where the line goes in to the bottom of the regulator.
Is that something that might contribute to the idle pulsing? Or is it not worth messing with? I still have the fuel bowl out (busy with other stuff), but I was thinking about putting it back together tomorrow AM for some more test-driving.
I can't come up with a failure mode that matches what your trans is doing.
Is there a group of PIDs you'd watch to narrow it down? I haven't driven the truck since posting, and it was pretty unpredictable before, so I was planning on picking a few to watch each time I drive until I see something useful during the event.
 

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It might be worth checking the mesh screen if the fuel bowl is already out. There have been others that have found it clogged up and it caused problems (but I can't recall the exact problem). The key is getting the plate pushed down squarely so the o-ring stays in position and far enough to get the circlip back in. Cheers!
 

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Is there a group of PIDs you'd watch to narrow it down? I haven't driven the truck since posting, and it was pretty unpredictable before, so I was planning on picking a few to watch each time I drive until I see something useful during the event.
Look at commanded gear and gear ratio. When I did this with engineering tools they were called GR_CM and GEAR_RATIO.
 

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Ok, wanted to clarify a couple things, first, glad you got the FPR screen figured out. Glad you made progress, something @heavydoc and I learned the hard way, a plugged FPR screen loosely translates to wildly fluctuating fuel pressure at idle, mine runs fine with roughly 3 lbs fluctuation, with a plugged screen his was bouncing around, 8 or 10 lbs fluctuation I think, he'd have to verify. If you haven't dealt with them yet, it's worth a phone call to Dieselorings, or check the website, they have kits for our fuel bowls, and many other goodies.

As for the tranny, see my other thread you posted in earlier, might help you. Had an interesting development, will add pics.

Side note about the sig info, those of us using Tapatalk don't see it, we have to track it down, takes a while.


Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 

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Another reason why I hate that tapacrap.

On another note, there is a lot of stuff in your sig that is very uneccesary and makes me want to not read it, "rat chewed wiring harness" and "usb power point"? Just type in what is necessary! Nobody cares about your opal grey bench.

I used to have some more info on my sig, but nobody read it anyways (thinking back, probably because of tapacrap), so I cut it back significantly.
 
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Discussion Starter #29
Of course, it's shifting correctly now that I'm set up to watch it. Commanded gear stays at 1 (even in P, R, & N) until it's rolling forward. Gear Ratio changes accordingly. But I haven't learned how to take a screenshot on this new Galaxy S20 (I don't think I ever learned how on the S8, before).
 

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Commanded gear stays at 1 (even in P, R, & N) until it's rolling forward. Gear Ratio changes accordingly.
That is how it is supposed to work. Commanded gear is always 1 in P, R, and N.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Thanks. I'll keep watching those PIDs each time I drive it until it acts up... Just gotta wait for the symptom to reappear.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
The trans has been shifting smoothly every time, but yesterday about this time, the first time I started it that day, the surging was back as strong as ever. But I didn't have any PID selected that might show why - just RPM, which was bouncing between ~400~800.
 

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My truck has been running well, but it still has a few little hiccups that I haven't diagnosed yet. Occasionally, when cold starting, it surges about once per second between ~700~1200 RPM until I raise it above idle & hold it for a few seconds. Then it idles low for a few seconds & runs fine. That happened before & after I adjusted the IVS tab for less dead pedal - maybe too little because sometimes it wouldn't respond until I dumped the pedal back to idle, but that seems to have stopped happening. For about a week last month, cruise wouldn't set, but now cruise works perfectly. Last week, I loaned it to a friend, and he said it was a dog getting going, and up the slightest hill. I though the boost gauge line had blown off the MAP again, but after I got it back, it turned out to be the trans starting in 3rd (or maybe 4th). All I had to do was pull the shifter down into 1st, and manually shift up to D. But it would still NOT kick down until it had really warmed up. Then it would go back to normal automatic shifting. I still haven't changed the fluid since buying the truck, and I assume it's factory (because so much else was), but it's not low or dark; just sort of dilute-looking. ForScan app & FoSeal adapter show no faults.

I don't know enough yet about electronic diesels or automatic transmissions to even have a guess if these are related, or why they could come & go. Are there any tests & can do to identify or exclude any possible causes?
As far as the surging the ICP sensor could be going out. Mine was doing the same then it finally stop running totally and had to have it towed. I had to take it to Ford to find out what was wrong as it was not giving my mechanic any codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #34

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You can unplug it, and see if it runs right. Or, plumb in a test gauge and see how the numbers compare to what you are seeing on the scan tool. Or replace it with a known good sensor, and see if it runs better.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #36
You can unplug it, and see if it runs right.
Are you saying the engine doesn't need the ICP to run? What does it default to when the ICP is open-circuit? See how it runs just at idle, or driving? Do I have to wait until the surging appears & then unplug the ICP? What would it mean if it runs the same - good ICP or bad?
Or, plumb in a test gauge and see how the numbers compare to what you are seeing on the scan tool.
I don't mind buying a gauge, but I don't know what pressure range to get, or what size threads it needs. Do you know? Is there a specific gauge you recommend?
Or replace it with a known good sensor...
I couldn't tell a difference in how the truck runs (and it obviously still has the same surge) when I replaced the original ICP - does that mean the old one is "known-good" even though it was weeping through its connector?

(phone app link)
 

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Leaking=can't be trusted. However if it has run bad with two sensors, it might not be the sensor.

Unplugged- the PCM will assume a normal reading, not ideal, but normal. It will set a code, and won't give you a PID for that sensor. But it will run. This applies to ICP, MAP, EBP, you can unplug those for testing or to get home if needed.

I don't have a favorite gauge, carry your old ICP sensor down to the parts store and get a fitting. A 4500 or 5k lb gauge should be sufficient.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I've had a few surging events while ForScan was recording, but IDK how to move that information from the phone to this site. Just a bunch of screenshots?

The transmission issue has not reappeared in a dozen drive cycles, but I'm still recording every time I start it up.
 

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I just posted this on another thread (as you asked there too). I believe you can attach files by clicking on the paperclip icon. I'm not sure what files are not allowed, maybe one of the moderators will pipe up. I'd try posting a comma separated file and see what happens. Or maybe even just post the file that Forscan spits out when you save the data, then we can open it with forscan.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Thanks. But, I didn't realize I needed to do anything after each drive. So next time it acts up, I'll be sure to SAVE the log file ;) so I can post it. Do you know what android folder it saves the log files in?
 
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