[97F250HDXLT]

My truck has been running well, but it still has a few little hiccups that I haven't diagnosed yet. Occasionally, when cold starting, it surges about once per second between ~700~1200 RPM until I raise it above idle & hold it for a few seconds. Then it idles low for a few seconds & runs fine. That happened before & after I adjusted the IVS tab for less dead pedal - maybe too little because sometimes it wouldn't respond until I dumped the pedal back to idle, but that seems to have stopped happening. For about a week last month, cruise wouldn't set, but now cruise works perfectly. Last week, I loaned it to a friend, and he said it was a dog getting going, and up the slightest hill. I though the boost gauge line had blown off the MAP again, but after I got it back, it turned out to be the trans starting in 3rd (or maybe 4th). All I had to do was pull the shifter down into 1st, and manually shift up to D. But it would still NOT kick down until it had really warmed up. Then it would go back to normal automatic shifting. I still haven't changed the fluid since buying the truck, and I assume it's factory (because so much else was), but it's not low or dark; just sort of dilute-looking. ForScan app & FoSeal adapter show no faults.

I don't know enough yet about electronic diesels or automatic transmissions to even have a guess if these are related, or why they could come & go. Are there any tests & can do to identify or exclude any possible causes?

 

[Blue-Truck-Nut97]

I highly recommend putting this one in the transmission section, so Mark sees it. I recommend cleaning and inspecting the plug on the PCM, and on the transmission.

As for the goofy idle, have you cleaned the screen for the FPR? If not, I recommend starting there, it's between the FPR and the fuel bowl, if you remove the fuel filter and look into the hole that the FPR bolts over, you can see it. You have to unbolt the FPR to pull it out.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

 

[heavydoc]

What Blue said. If your OD light is not flashing on your shifter then there are not any transmission codes. I would suspect a fluid and filter change may work, and is a great time to inspect the solenoid pack. A quick Google search will give you the solenoid pin location and ohm specs.

 

[Patrick Feeley]

Here's what I find for solenoid resistances (see attached from 1996 Service Manual which is the connector side, you'll want trans side which should be mirror image for pins, 1997 looks to be the same):
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid: Pin 1 to Pin 4, 20-30 ohms
Coast Clutch Solenoid: Pin 1 to Pin 5, 20-30 ohms
#1 Shift Solenoid: Pin 1 to Pin 3, 20-30 ohms
#2 Shift Solenoid: Pin 1 to Pin 2, 20-30 ohms
Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid: Pin 12 to Pin 11, 3.0 to 5.0 ohms

Cheers!

 

[heavydoc]

I got that saved somewhere, but cannot find it, I guess I could of done the Google search too

 

[Mark Kovalsky]

What you are describing is a transmission that isn't getting power to the shift solenoids. If the solenoids are not powered you will only have fourth gear in D, and second gear in manual 1 and 2.

I've never seen one do this cold and then work fine warmed up. That's a new one for me.

I don't see how a fluid change would help this.

 

[Patrick Feeley]

I got that saved somewhere, but cannot find it, I guess I could of done the Google search too

I actually just posted that recently in another thread here. Cheers!

 

[heavydoc]

I used it last summer when I did my valve body mods. But think I got it outta my manual

 

[97F250HDXLT]

As for the goofy idle, have you cleaned the screen for the FPR?

No, but the truck seems to work fine except on these rare occasions. Would FPR filter blockage be THAT intermittent? And disappear after holding the throttle above idle for a second or 3?

...if you remove the fuel filter and look into the hole that the FPR bolts over, you can see it.

Are you saying I can see the blockage - the debris on the filter? Or just the filter?

You have to unbolt the FPR to pull it out.

It looks like there's a gasket or O-ring that I need to have in-hand before I pull the FPR off.

(phone app link)


Does anyone know the PN, or just the size in case one of these will fit?

(phone app link)

I would suspect a fluid and filter change may work...

The diesel tech at the dealership where I used to work said he wouldn't risk changing the fluid or filter after this many miles, but I've been looking for an excuse to do it. I accidentally forced myself to change some of the fluid in my '93 gasser C6 F250 a few months ago by forgetting the clamp pliers on the cooler hose, and it's still working with about a gallon of new WalMart ATF. I just got back from a 3-hr (each way) trip in it.

(phone app link)

If the solenoids are not powered you will only have fourth gear in D...

That sounds like what I'm feeling.

...second gear in manual 1 and 2.

I'm absolutely positive that I have 1st in 1, and 2nd in 2. I can feel & see (on the tach) that it shifts when I bump it up from 1 to 2.

I've never seen one do this cold and then work fine warmed up.

Sometimes it doesn't seem to happen at all (especially on hot days); sometimes it seems to work normally at startup, then go bad for a little while, and then clear up later; sometimes it stays bad for a while - I haven't noticed any specific pattern yet. But it has certainly appeared very recently - it didn't do this for the first several months that I owned the truck, including during the only trip I've towed with it (the day I bought the trailer). Nothing has happened to the truck between then & now, other than maybe sitting a little more than usual because I was working on other trucks.

(phone app link)


I just remembered another symptom... When it's misbehaving, and I press the pedal enough for kickdown, it either locks the TC or shifts UP because the engine bogs hard & RPMs drop. When that happens, I pull it down to 2, and it goes like it should instantly.

 

[Blue-Truck-Nut97]

First- put your truck info in the first post, most of us don't have the time or patience to track down your sig.

Second- say what you mean, a link is great to pertinent information, a data sheet, an old thread that will save three days of trial and error, and stuff like that, but 37 links in one post is nutty. I don't know if you are trying to generate traffic on another site or what, but, it's getting kinda ridiculous.

Third- if you know the answers already, why ask the question, then tell everyone they are wrong?

Good luck, your gonna need it.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

 

[heavydoc]

 

[heavydoc]

First- put your truck info in the first post, most of us don't have the time or patience to track down your sig.

Second- say what you mean, a link is great to pertinent information, a data sheet, an old thread that will save three days of trial and error, and stuff like that, but 37 links in one post is nutty. I don't know if you are trying to generate traffic on another site or what, but, it's getting kinda ridiculous.

Third- if you know the answers already, why ask the question, then tell everyone they are wrong?

Good luck, your gonna need it.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

You know the op is the first person I have put on ignore/block cause I'm tired of his links in every dam thread and he always knows the answer to questions he has asked, then why the **** ask them. And would you know all his posts are gone in my feed it is great

 

[Blue-Truck-Nut97]

Eh I'm not that dedicated. Ignore feature requires time and effort to figure out. I can not click on stuff.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

 

[heavydoc]

It didn't take long to figure out but it sure is worth it!

 

[Dustybumpers]

I ignored him after reading his first post

 

[Bugman]

It is always fun when mechanics join the forums.

We had one over on TDS a number of years ago that had over a thousand post by the second week of their membership.

I think that perhaps his wife took the computer away from him since I haven't seen him post in years.

 

[97F250HDXLT]

IDK why everyone's panties are wadded - I didn't disagree with any replies, or claim to know what this problem is. I agreed with heavydoc, and simply asked Blue-Truck-Nut97 for a few more details. But IDK why you think you have to track down a signature - it's under every post. No clicking required. But here it is again.

97 F250HD XLT 292Kmi E4OD, 3L55 10.25" 3"drums, 3.54 D50IFS, std.cab long bed 8600GVWR, opal gray bench, 8-lug alloys, front plastic 22gal w/skidplate, rear 18.2gal, F&R 2" receivers, GN, rat-chewed engine wiring fixed, USB power point, LED reverse floods, dimming compass thermometer RV mirror, projector headlights, Hayden 687, Bolt hitch pin & toolbox latch, B&W TS10048B, cheap ICP, Foseal BT OBD2, 5 new Cooper Discoverer AT3 235/85R16E, CareUD TPMS

And everything I wanted to say is in plain text - nothing is left out, so you don't have to click any of the 4 linked thumbnails. Whom did I say was wrong? Mark described the possible symptoms of depowered solenoids, and I clarified the symptoms that my truck actually has. I genuinely appreciate all the help up to post #8, but for posts #10-16; lighten up, Francises!

Back on topic (if anyone is still reading)...
I have a Foseal adapter & the ForScan app - are there any PIDs I can watch to tell what's going on with the cold-start idle &/or shifting?

 

[Patrick Feeley]

I would normally say to see if it does it starting in neutral, but since you mentioned that the weird idle is "occasionally", that may not be a very good test to see if the Trans Range Sensor is the problem. I haven't had a chance to see what my OBD MX+ adapter and Forscan Lite will do, so I'm no help there although I'm sure there must be something to see what the PCM is commanding to the trans. Cheers!

 

[97F250HDXLT]

...have you cleaned the screen for the FPR?

I have now. You were right - it was BAD.

(phone app link)


I'm gonna try just re-tightening the FPR to the bowl. If it leaks, I'll add Hylomar or change the O-ring.

I have the OBDLink EX adapter, but the tablet I was going to use it with is acting up, so I haven't tried it yet.

 

[Patrick Feeley]

Went through my notes and saw FPR to Fuel Bowl o-ring as #015 (use viton). I've never verified it however. Cheers!