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STILL LEARNING
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18,324 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I pulled the engine/trans/t-case out of my F550 last night. What all should i be looking at for repair while it is out.

It is out for a Pan and dipstick
A set of remain injectors
broken exhaust manifold bolts
Trans to get freshened(6 speed)And check clutch

Should I reseal the up pipes?
The GP system was not working. I am thinking GP relay, VC gaskets, UVCH, check GPs.

Anything else?
 

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Busted Knuckles
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2,456 Posts
It'd be a good time to do head studs. Even if you were considering them at a later time now would be the easiest to do them! I wish I had my engine out when I did mine. Really, anything dealing with your heads would be easiest to replace at this point! Maybe some new injector cups.
 

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STILL LEARNING
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18,324 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
No head studs. I am just fixing the things it needs and selling the truck
 

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Custom Trailer Sales
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6,161 Posts
I'd just look around inside while the pans off and fix whats broken. You can get to almost everything but the internals when the engine is back in the truck if you have an issue you find later.
 

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Cantankerous Old Redneck
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627 Posts
be sure to never-seize the exhaust bolts, the whole bolt, including under the flange head, and then torque them in....book says 45 lbs, I torqued mine to 50 ftlbs. (because of the never-seize under the flange head)

and yes I would do the uppipes also...use the stock ford donuts, and never-seize the crap outta them, and the bolts, and torque them also.
 

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STILL LEARNING
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18,324 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Everyone is talking donuts. But I dont see any
 

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Custom Trailer Sales
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6,161 Posts
They seal the up pipe to the manifold. You won't see them unless you pull the up pipes.
 

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STILL LEARNING
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18,324 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
They seal the up pipe to the manifold. You won't see them unless you pull the up pipes.
Up pipes and manifolds are off. Still not seeing them. Are they like a small block chevy manifold donuts?

And what seals the up-pipes to the "turbo manifold"?
 

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Custom Trailer Sales
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6,161 Posts
Up pipes and manifolds are off. Still not seeing them. Are they like a small block chevy manifold donuts?

And what seals the up-pipes to the "turbo manifold"?
They look like this


And I believe there are four of them. Where each up pipe meets the manifold, and in these two joints.
 

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FORD..THE ROCK CRUSHER
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2,346 Posts
they look just like Chevy donuts..(as a matter of fact the soft cheap chevy donuts can be used..) the one posted above are brass.. there are only 2 of them..they are on the turbo end of the pipe like in the picture already posted..the manifold end is metal to metel...it is possible to have bellowed pipes in there witch do not have donuts..they use a flat metal gasket rather then donuts...
 

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STILL LEARNING
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18,324 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Ok. Thanks for clarifying that. I was thinking they were where the up pipes met the exhaust manifold:doh:. Can I use chevy donuts? +s or -s to using them?

On a similar topic. I was gonna sandblast the manifolds and up pipes today and use EASTWOODS Hi-temp manifold paint on them. Would that be a good idea or a waste of my time? Factory Gray Hi-Temp Coating
 

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FORD..THE ROCK CRUSHER
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2,346 Posts
if your selling the truck and the pipes are worn where the donuts ride on the pipe..then get the cheapest Chevy donut you can get..((Napa) F17250
CarQuest F1750) what your looking for is a very soft donut that you can stick your thumb nail into..use lots of anti-seize on the donut so when you tighten the bolts the donut will slip and slide in the flange enough to squeeze tight against the pipe..
the part#'s i listed are 4 years old..they may have changed..

if the pipes are in good shape and your keeping the truck..use stock donuts..about 21 bucks a set ..(up pipe donuts (Ford) F4TZ-6K854-C) better yet get the brass ones from beans pictured above..

best fix of all is going to bellowed pipes...

if you paint the manifolds...keep in mind they can get up to 1500*..make sure the paint you use can handle them temps...i love painted parts my self....
 

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STILL LEARNING
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18,324 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Well the up pipes do have a wear mark in them, to my surprise they were NOT leaking.. But I really dont want to spend the $$ on new ones. So If I understand correctly, I should get the chevy donuts and antizeeze them well.

As for the Eastwood paint, i have used it before on gasser manifolds with great luck. They just need to be sandblasted bare 1st
 

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Registered
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1,016 Posts
Well the up pipes do have a wear mark in them, to my surprise they were NOT leaking.. But I really dont want to spend the $$ on new ones. So If I understand correctly, I should get the chevy donuts and antizeeze them well.

As for the Eastwood paint, i have used it before on gasser manifolds with great luck. They just need to be sandblasted bare 1st
If the outside diameter of the up-pipe is worn thinner where the donut rides you can take them to a muffler shop and have them re-radius or expand the pipe back to its more or less original diameter. Just another option. If you know them its usually free.
 

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STILL LEARNING
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18,324 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the tip, but I believe they are still round, but there is grove worn in the one side
 

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STILL LEARNING
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18,324 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Last night I ordered new up-pipes, donuts and all the hardware. I dont want to take a chance if them leaking
 

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STILL LEARNING
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18,324 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I am thinking about doing away with the EBPV. How beneficial would this be. What all is involved other than removing the butterfly? And then could I do away with the little tube that comes off the pass manifold?
 

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Custom Trailer Sales
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6,161 Posts
Thanks for clearing that up ron, I couldn't remember!

I am thinking about doing away with the EBPV. How beneficial would this be. What all is involved other than removing the butterfly? And then could I do away with the little tube that comes off the pass manifold?
That tube has to stay, your EBP sensor is on the other end of the tube. You could however clean out that little tube, it's probably dirty.
 

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Registered
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I am thinking about doing away with the EBPV. How beneficial would this be. What all is involved other than removing the butterfly? And then could I do away with the little tube that comes off the pass manifold?
Brad.. Those are two different things. The EBPV opens and closes a butterfly on the exhaust housing depending on engine temp and a couple other params to allow the engine to warm faster. If you remove this setup you have to terminate the EBPV valve actuator plug end or you will get a continuous SES light. If you leave the EBPV pedestal in pace and plug the oil feed just make sure you plug it well otherwise it may refill the cylinder/piston and leak.

The Exhaust Back pressure sensor is used to tell the motor how much exhaust back pressure is building and then uses this info to trim fuel delivery. If this gets clogged with soot you could see declining fuel economy.

If I were selling this after I got her fixed up I would leave all this in place and working. You get no benefit here unless you already have to fix something.
 

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STILL LEARNING
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18,324 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I am seriously considering keeping the truck. But I am not looking for some all out HP. Just looking for some simple things to do to make it more efficient. Yesterday I drilled and tapped the manifold, for a EGT down the road.

I remember reading that the butterfly interrupts air flow. I alway have my disconnected because they cycle too much in the winter for my liking.

Is there a write up on how do plug the oil feed hole for the actuator?

I assume I have to pull the turbo,
Remove the butterfly and rod,
weld the holes shut form the rod,
but I have one had one turbo off once, so i dont know what else would be involved
 
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