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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wanting to get pillar gauges. A pyrometer and a boost gauge are a must for me. But are there any others I should look into? I don’t really think watching fuel press constantly is that important, it’s better to check fuel press for diagnostic purposes. And I have a ZF6 so I don’t have a convenient way to run a trans temp gauge. Or do I? Anyone know of a transmission temp probe adapter for a ZF6?


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I'd do fuel pressure over any other guage, it will save you thousands.

Oil pressure

Coolant temp

I don't run tunes so pyro is worthless to me, factory boost guage runs good enough for me but the factory temp guage only tells you it's too hot when your already 230-240, I rather know before hand. No factory oil pressure gauge.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'd do fuel pressure over any other guage, it will save you thousands.

Oil pressure

Coolant temp

I don't run tunes so pyro is worthless to me, factory boost guage runs good enough for me but the factory temp guage only tells you it's too hot when your already 230-240, I rather know before hand. No factory oil pressure gauge.
Mine is a base model 04, so I have no factory boost or tranny temp gauge, but I do have a factory LPOP gauge. Pyro is a must for me because I tow in the mountains. My Scan Gauge can show me accurate HPOP, oil and coolant temp. I have a stand-alone fuel pressure gauge for diagnostic purposes, but I see no point in having a fuel pressure reading in my face all the time.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I like knowing my fuel pressure. If you have a problem starting it could save a walk.
Sure, having a stand-alone pressure gauge for diagnosing a problem is handy. But why have a fuel pressure reading in your face all the time if there’s no problem?


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Because your truck can run at 45 psi fuel pressure and below, but damage to the injectors begins to happen at 45 psig and below (and you do not know that the damage is happening). Best shot at injector longevity is 50 + psig fuel pressure at ALL times. Some people enjoy 300k miles on the set of injectors, others don't mind changing them out at 150k miles.

Your call if you want to avoid that or not ..............
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Because your truck can run at 45 psi fuel pressure and below, but damage to the injectors begins to happen at 45 psig and below (and you do not know that the damage is happening). Best shot at injector longevity is 50 psig fuel pressure at ALL times. Some people enjoy 300k miles on the set of injectors, others don't mind changing them out at 150k miles.

Your call if you want to avoid that or not ..............
What if we’re to tell you I have a regulated return set at 75 psi?


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I would tell you that I have seen multiple brands of regulators fail (ie deliver less pressure than the set point). I have seen fuel pumps fail by slowly falling off on delivered pressure, I have seen fuel pickup lines break off and plug lines (which lowers pressure), I have seen the fuel pump relay fail by flickering on and off before failing completely - which impacts pressure AND flow. Even crud in the fuel tank from bad diesel can cause the pressure to drop regardless of where a regulator is set .........

We are sharing our experience - and it goes way beyond a single system or a single failure type.

If you are happy, then I am happy, but don't try to tell me that you can set ANY brand of regulator at a setpoint and expect it to never fail or drift. Seen too much to buy into that one. If you can quickly catch a pressure drift or failure on your system (which you can't without a gauge), then you should be ok, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would tell you that I have seen multiple brands of regulators fail (ie deliver less pressure than the set point). I have seen fuel pumps fail by slowly falling off on delivered pressure, I have seen fuel pickup lines break off and plug lines (which lowers pressure), I have seen the fuel pump relay fail by flickering on and off before failing completely - which impacts pressure AND flow. Even crud in the fuel tank from bad diesel can cause the pressure to drop regardless of where a regulator is set .........

We are sharing our experience - and it goes way beyond a single system or a single failure type.

If you are happy, then I am happy, but don't try to tell me that you can set ANY brand of regulator at a setpoint and expect it to never fail or drift. Seen too much to buy into that one. If you can quickly catch a pressure drift or failure on your system, then you should be ok.
How would one go about installing a temperature probe in a ZF6?


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Also as for a pyrometer, I have seen EGT's way above what is safe on a stock truck. A lot depends on how you drive.
 

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Because when your regulator fails and you have been driving at 45 psi for over a month and start getting codes for injectors.

There's not much difference in your regulator and any other one, just a spring holding pressure.

You also have the ability to make people trying to help you bash their head into a wall.

You might also look into what the factory oil guage is, because currently what you been saying means you don't know crap.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Because when your regulator fails and you have been driving at 45 psi for over a month and start getting codes for injectors.

There's not much difference in your regulator and any other one, just a spring holding pressure.

You also have the ability to make people trying to help you bash their head into a wall.

You might also look into what the factory oil guage is, because currently what you been saying means you don't know crap.
Not askin for y'alls beef, just stating my reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If people want help, it sometimes comes with beef ......................... At least when your are dealing with people that are actually knowledgeable. We can certainly share what we know with others.
I guess since prices are so high I’d best get all the beef I can


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Now that's funny!
Here’s an interesting idea: any way to transplant an 05 gauge cluster into a late ‘04? That way I can use the factory boost gauge and tranny temp gauge, and put the important gauges on the pillar.


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I don't think that the PCM from an 04 would communicate the boost to the 05 cluster, but that is just a guess. Boost has to be calculated since it is the MAP sensor output minus the Baro.
I may just end up buying a triple gauge kit from Max Tow (EGT, Boost, and Tranny temp) then get an extra fuel pressure gauge and mount it on the dash somewhere. So that it’s out of the way, but there if I need it.


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In all honesty, you may be the guy that never needs the fuel pressure gauge. That said, the multiple areas of potential failure makes it a wise decision - that is all we are communicating. We have seen MANY, MANY people pay thousands when it could have been avoided.

It is like the 03 and 04 HPOP. Why anyone would install a round HPOP other than one from CNCFab or Dieselsite is beyond me. Yes it is more money, but the cost and aggravation of doing it over again more than justifies a few hundred more in cost for the part.

It is a form of insurance. Clearly not everyone appreciates the value of insurance.
 

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Clusters on Ford do a lot so I'm not sure it will swap, also the trans temp is for autos, the manual clusters came with a battery guage. With all the hard work and towing I've done I've never seen the auto guage go higher than normal temp so I think a battery guage would be better lol.

I keep thinking you don't need a tranny temp guage but haven't said it because lack of experience with the manuals, only driven one with a 6.0. I would probably just put a sender in the fill/drain plug on the transmission like is done with big truck rear ends.

My truck need a ficm bad and still need a elc flush but still haven't managed to do it, life is being a real bitch on me right now.p
 
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