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Discussion Starter #1
I'm sure some will disagree, but I have started a back to front rebuild.
2000 F250 7.3L xlt crew cab 4x4 3L73-10.5diff.
This is a list of what I've changed. Please let me know where to order, or what exact size and purpose of anything y'all think I'm missing. I respect most of y'all's opinions, so any input helps, thanks again!
Air intake tractor filter. Sensor ziptied. Oil overflow vented, so whole in tube plugged.
Suspension; bilstien 4-6" shocks. Pro comp 4" all leaf lift. Shorter u bolts. Hyper-flex complete bushing swap. 35x12.5 destination m/t tires. Spacers forget size. New lugs, nuts, and brake rebuild. New rotors, Warner I believe. Locking Warner front hubs. Back half of frame has been brush on bed lined phospho according to other posts. Stock brake lines freshened, diff flushed and new vent hose. 5th wheel bolt on.
Fuel; hutch n harpooned, new injection fuel line
Riffraff 10micron inline filter.
New line to pump.
RRaff fuel line check line delete fittings.
Wix fuel filter.
Fuel bowl heater from donor.
WhiteRogers GPR (works as should when bypassed but no ground from pcm wire ever ?)
Glow plugs info advice?
Injectors (bigger or no? Brand? Website?)
Oil; motorcraft. New filter.
Swapped head vent facing backwards, new o rings, vent hose to pvc shut off dump just before fuel tank.
Oil crossover hose (which is right in the way of pulling out turbo)
Deleted EBPV butterfly freeze plugged hole.
EBPV actuator rod gutted, tapped and plugged the port. Removed relay by gpr. No wires for anyway.
Pedastal n turbo oil Chambers orings bottomx2, middlex2 (part#s, and fastest shipping?)
Stock exaust, no donut gaskets for up nor down pipes (international pipes worth it? Gaskets? Legal headers while in there?)
3"- down pipe -4" exaust dual tip. No muffler (Ideas to make legal? 4"down pipe or no?)
Wire Harness; replaced with 99' refurbished, tested
PCM; p.o. replaced beforehand (no water in glove box, so I'm curious) cleaned
Excalibur alarm; p.o. Installed. P.o.s. wiring, out currently for rebuild.
Hydra 13(?) P.o. installed with memory port into PCM. Loved it before teardown, out currently for rebuild.
Upfitter switches from 2005 donor, which seem like hell to retrofit into fuse box with can box style 2000 model. May just run constant fused power from battery for full time use anyway. (Seen your diagram posts, but I'm too dense to get the jist.
Gauges; green gone, needles on, but no easy tuning. marking didn't work well enough. Red superbrightleds.com installed. 2005 donor trim with headlight a/c controls.
Radio; none p.o. installed horrible touchscreen with bare wire harness adaptor. Out until last, probably cubby hole conversion to 1.5
That's where I'm at. Thanks for all the intelligent previous posts that have lead me thus far. JTRogers -TX
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Leaky oil sensor (3pin round black on front driver's side)
New batteries
Shut off mounts on my ground leads.
Cleaned rear block grounding strap connections, and two grounds under starter relay. New starter relay. (Any more grounds to clean somewhere?)
Stock horn clicks relay, good fuse, but no sound, have yet to pull the fender.
 

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I would skip the Pro Comp lift. I've had that same lift for about 10 years and it sucks. If you do go that way, make sure you get the best shocks they have and that it is ordered specifically for your truck so they will be valved right. I am soon to order new shocks myself because sometimes it feels like I'm riding a bucking bronco haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The lift was already there, I just killed the blocks with procomp leafs instead, and since they're new, they're staying. O did get the shocks pre dampened or what have you for my truck and lift.
 
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