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Discussion Starter #1
2003 F250 6.0. Drove my truck over 500 miles over the weekend. Got back yesterday morning, went to work, came home no problem. Go out to the truck today, started right up like normal. I was going to pull it forward so it was out of the way while I did something else. Put it into gear, gave it throttle and it died. Tried to start it back up, acted like it had no juice at all. The first time it cranked perfectly. Now it acts like the batteries are dead. I’ve had it hooked to another truck charging the battery, and after about 40 minutes it’s at least turning over fast enough that the engine is TRYING to start, but as soon as I let off the key, it’s done. What could’ve happened between last night and this morning to cause this? I’m at a loss.
 

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Corder,

Pull the alternator and have it checked. Other possibilities - old batteries, a shorted battery. Lt.Dan mentioned in his thread "Project Shamu" that he power washed the engine compartment and shorted/killed his batteries. How old are your batteries?

Cj
 

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Corder,

Pull the alternator and have it checked. Other possibilities - old batteries, a shorted battery. Lt.Dan mentioned in his thread "Project Shamu" that he power washed the engine compartment and shorted/killed his batteries. How old are your batteries?

Cj
Ah yes, twas' a terrible day...
 

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I bought the truck in February this year. So I’m not sure how old they are. But what gets me is it has never cranked slow in the time I’ve owned it, it’s always started without hesitation, including the first time this morning. To crank so fast one second, then act like both batteries were dead seconds later, that just confuses me.

I’ll have to check it out more tomorrow. I’ve been helping my dad today. I only stopped long enough to look at it when it decided to crap out on me. I hope I didn’t make a huge mistake in buying this thing.
 

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Oh, and I had it on jumper cables for about an hour earlier. Tried to start and was “chugging” like it normally does on startup (the normal diesel sound), but wouldn’t actually run. So again, not sure what’s going on. Aside from my luck sucking.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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You bought a 16 year old truck. It will need things.

Jumper cables don't help a failed battery.

One of the problems is if you let the voltage drop too low for too long, you will damage your Fuel Injection Control Module. If that happens, the best decision would be to send it to FICMrepair.com and have it upgraded. That is a $350 - $450 expense.

You should always stay on top of the condition of your batteries and alternator. You do that by buying an electronic gauge system.

By monitoring key parameters (system voltage FICM MPower, FICM LPower, Oil and Coolant temperatures, Fuel pressure, cranking rpms, and ICP pressure and IPR duty cycle), you can usually catch issues early and keep them from being a major expense.
 

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Ok, I understand it’s not a brand new truck, I’m not an idiot. I’ve been working on cars and trucks since I was 12. I understand a lot. What I’m having trouble understanding is how, I’m a matter of seconds, the truck is perfectly fine and starts normally, but when I put it in gear about 3-5 seconds after I started it, it died as soon as I gave it throttle. THEN it cranked slow and wouldn’t restart. That’s what I’m trying to understand. It makes me feel like it’s partially electrical, but could also be fuel related. But I can’t figure out how.

I don’t have a bunch of tools related to the 6.0s yet. I HAD a scanner, but that went “missing”. 🙄 So all I currently have is a cheap OBD scanner that works through my phone. According to that, there are no codes at all. And my check engine light has never been on since I’ve bought it.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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You posted that you hoped you didn't make a mistake ............ From your symptoms it is WAY too early to go down that thought path. My point is that there are a lot of things that need to be done to maintain an aging 6.0L diesel. Many of them are expensive. They aren't for everyone, but the best thing for an owner to do is to get knowledgeable of the engine's specific issues and fixes and then get a good monitor.

One big expense on an old diesel truck can be cab mount and frame bushings. Another can be suspension and/or steering parts. I am sure you know this, but those repairs can be many hundreds, or even well over a thousand dollars . Most people, old or young, don't factor in those kinds of needs and costs.

A battery cell can short out quickly. Maybe your batteries were weak to begin with. The power board (or logic board for that matter) in your FICM can blow an electronic component and fail quickly. The FICM controls fueling. Get the batteries charged and load tested and then monitor FICM voltages. New 6.0L owners really need to ensure electrical system health ASAP or they can spend a lot more on the electronic components!

If you haven't already, look at oil and coolant temperatures before your oil cooler ruptures. It is probably the most common issue passed on to buyers of used 6.0L's.

The best "bang for your bucks" in monitoring is the Torque Pro app or the ForScan Lite app for your phone. ForScan is a much better code reader than any other phone app I have seen. It picks up things that others don't.
 

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I apologize for being snippy earlier. It’s been a long day in the heat working on tractors, just for this to happen. I haven’t driven the truck too much since I bought it six months ago. I’ve only put about 2,200 miles on it as of now. The biggest reason being that I was hoping to avoid it breaking down on me before I got to do some upgrades. So much for that. LOL

So I started thinking about something. I had posted on another board when I got the truck, about the A/C clutch. When I got the truck, it didn’t work. So I ended up checking fuses, and found a 10A fuse blown in the under dash fuse box. I replaced it, the A/C was ice cold. HOWEVER, when I went to start the truck after replacing that fuse, it clicked but wouldn’t crank. It would eventually crank, but took 2 or 3 tries before it would even turn over (this was even with the HVAC switched to off). I started and shut off the truck four or five times, the A/C worked perfect. The only issue was the problem cranking. The next morning, I started it (after several tries), and as soon as I put it in gear, the fuse popped again and no more A/C. Since that, I haven’t messed with the A/C again. So, since that fuse is blown, the A/C clutch shouldn’t be a problem. I had my son crank over the truck while I was underneath it, and the compressor pulley is turning just as fast as the belt, so it’s not locked yet, but I know that doesn’t rule out the compressor trying to lock up.

I tried locking the drive belt out by pulling outward on it, which didn’t work. But what was weird is it released tension for a minute, but slowly tightened back up. I also heard something dragging (one of the pulleys, I believe), but I can’t narrow it down yet. I think I need one of those Little Giant ladders to work on this thing.
 

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Ok, I got home from work tonight and pulled the batteries. Went to put them on the charger, and one is at 12.5V, the other is 12.6V. So after hearing one of the pulleys dragging yesterday, I’m leaning towards a bearing starting to go out in one of them. Do I have to remove the shroud and fan to check all the pulleys, or is there an easier way? It seems pretty cramped in there. LOL
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Just this weekend I had a battery that read 12.6 volts, but dropped to 0v with a load test. I then put a charger on it and it read 13v. Still dropped to 0 w/ a load. As stated earlier that is why a simple voltage reading does not tell the whole story.

Yours may very well be fine, just that you don't know for sure without proper testing.
 

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Good point. I’ll run them to Autozone during lunch on Friday. I still want to figure out which pulley is dragging before I put the batteries back in, though. Might as well fix it if one of them are messed up.
 

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Let me tell you, bismic knows his stuff! If he recommends it, you should probably do it. lol I concur with the battery testing. Electrical is such a huge part in keeping a 6.0 healthy. I'll add that if you find you do have a dead cell in one of the batteries, don't just buy a new battery. Buy TWO new batteries. Can you just do one? Sure, but many have had the combination of old and new wind up biting them in the arse. Additionally, don't forget to check all of your connections, to include the engine ground wire that's kind of below and to the right of the AC compressor.

Also, regarding your question on the pulleys, you don't have to remove the shroud. Will it be easier to get to everything? Yes, but it's not required. If it were mine, I would leave it on and just work my hands down into the nooks and crannies to check each pulley.

The AC issue is concerning to me, though. You may want to do a thorough check of your wiring. Sounds like you may have an intermittent short.
 

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Ok, so I tried taking the fan shroud off and it refuses to come out. I took the radiator brackets off the top and moved the wiring. I took the two bolts off the top half (was already cut in half by a previous owner), then removed the screws on both sides. Finally got the top half out, but the bottom won’t budge. Am I missing something? I thought once the top half was out, the bottom was supposed to just pull up?

Also, after I DO get the bottom half off, how does the inner plastic part of the shroud come off so I can get to the pulleys?

Sorry everyone if I’m being a pain.
 

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Unbolt the radiator and slide it as far toward the Front of the truck as possible. Remove the small degas return hose off the radiator,remove upper hose from radiator, remove the 8mm bolts holding outer shroud to radiator, unclip Lower radiator hose from the shroud under neath. Unplug fan clutch and remove from fan statir. Lift straight up on the shroud it will come straight up be sure to not damage the fan clutch. To get the inner stator off you need to remove the fan clutch. There are 4 bolts that hold the inner stator to the engine. 2 up top, 2 at the bottom.

If you are trying to replace the compressor you don’t need to do that. It comes out the passenger wheel well.
 

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Oh, I’m not messing with the A/C yet. Right now I’m trying to get plenty of access so I can figure out which pulley is hanging up.
 

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Ok, so I pulled the belt off today and the AC compressor is locked up tight. So it looks like I’ll be replacing that next week.
 

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I will. I found the kit and I’ll be purchasing that on Friday and having it shipped out. When I’m done, I’ll bring it up the road and have them evacuate the system and refill it.
 
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